Streamlining wood splitting operation. What do you do?

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iamspt

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Hi gang. I am trying to squueze a bit more efficiency out of my operation and want to see what ideas you have.

I have an old but not so used up timberwolf with log lift and 4 way wedge. I generally get my wood from a landscaper already bucked up into random lengths. I have a marker that i can quickly go through the pile and mark up 18 inch lengths. I then cut everything to uniform length. Then i roll the splitter over and start. The pile gets about 3 foot high and actually will push the splitter along as i keep splitting. This in turn leave a pile about 3 feet high and can go 10-20 feet in a day. I usually leave it like this for it to season.

I want to increase my though put and save my back a little. I was trying to think of a way that I can get multpile rounds in a row on a gravity feed of sorts so I can split say 15 rounds. silimar to the table on a firewood processor.

I know this is probably not practical but am sure someone out these is doing it better. Can you hare what you do?
 
You might want to build a small deck that would hold the unsplit rounds and get a small conveyor to carrying the logs on to the deck once you buck them to the proper length. If you wanted to keep using the method of having the growing pile push the splitter backwards, you'd need a long deck.

Or, if you get a small loader, just buck the rounds, kick them into the bucket and load them up on the deck. The guys with processors just load log length pieces on the decks with a skid steer or tractor, so working with already bucked rounds presents a new challenge.
 
firewood

Hi gang. I am trying to squueze a bit more efficiency out of my operation and want to see what ideas you have.

I have an old but not so used up timberwolf with log lift and 4 way wedge. I generally get my wood from a landscaper already bucked up into random lengths. I have a marker that i can quickly go through the pile and mark up 18 inch lengths. I then cut everything to uniform length. Then i roll the splitter over and start. The pile gets about 3 foot high and actually will push the splitter along as i keep splitting. This in turn leave a pile about 3 feet high and can go 10-20 feet in a day. I usually leave it like this for it to season.

I want to increase my though put and save my back a little. I was trying to think of a way that I can get multpile rounds in a row on a gravity feed of sorts so I can split say 15 rounds. silimar to the table on a firewood processor.

I know this is probably not practical but am sure someone out these is doing it better. Can you hare what you do?

=====================================================

About your fire wood,


It might be time to think about up grading this way;

The smallest Chomper is operated with a Tractor 540 R.P.M. P.T.O. or an electric motor now I think.

Even the smallest manually operated engine powered Chomper would help you as you can load the random rounds right into the chute and they will be pulled in, sheared and split.

You could use a small Kubota BX1860 with a loader bucket adding a mesh side frame to the 2 sides and the back to make the carrying volume larger and simply dump it to be picked up later.


The mesh frame bucket sides and back would let you load the rounds and carry them back to be split quickly with the chomper.
 
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Thanks for the feedback so far....The challenge with the processor is that you need timber to work efficiently. I get all my wood from a tree service and they cuts everything into 12-24 inch lengths so they can carry them to the truck.

When They dump them in my yard I just go through and buck up anything longer than 18 inches, then I split.

I sell some firewood to help with bills and have done so for about 15 years. I usually sell everything I split half way through the season. just looking to sqeeze a little more out of it.
 
The problem I see is with you splitter moving, it's going to be hard to get something to work that is not stationary. I would just hire someone for a day or two at 8 or 9 bucks an hour to keep the splitter fed. Plenty of high school kids needing money. Do you live in an area that has hispanic day workers, get you one that speaks english, feed him good and pay him cash. That way you don't have near the money tied up in something you only use every once in a while instead of having money tied up in machinery that dosen't pay for itself.
 
The best streamlining move I made was to throw the splits into a pile as I split 'em. As I'm waiting for the ram to recover. That eliminated a lot of extra wood handling and stoop labor since I split sitting down.

I have a couple of long rectangular pads of gravel I pile on. Since we split mostly small I can heave those splits up 10-12 feet.

You can safely pile wood way higher than you would ever dare to stack.
 
two things first... you first said a landscaper... then a tree service... here that's a no no...lol.... as said before i would hire a couple kids to feed the splitter. then have one stacking while it comes off..... a wife works good for this...lol:crazy1:
 
That's true. Then you can watch the pile get covered with lots of snow and ice and the center of the pile will rot away because it never dries. :sad:

I pile mine on a bunch of pallets and have never had a problem. I used to rank everything up but found it was a pain. 4 skidsteeer buckets is one rank with my machine and I dont have to handle as much. Im not father time or anything but I have seen no rotting of any kind.
 
I pile mine on a bunch of pallets and have never had a problem. I used to rank everything up but found it was a pain. 4 skidsteeer buckets is one rank with my machine and I dont have to handle as much. I'm not father time or anything but I have seen no rotting of any kind.
Not much snow either? And lots of land? The random pile takes up twice the area or more. Snow on stacked wood covers the top only and leaves the rest dry.
 
Not much snow either? And lots of land? The random pile takes up twice the area or more. Snow on stacked wood covers the top only and leaves the rest dry.

I live in SE MO and dont know what snow fall was last year but have never had any rot problems. I do realize that a rank or cord will flow more air, but at the same time a pile isnt air tight and will still flow sufficiant air for drying. My piles are tiny compared to some 40 mi north of me where they had a masive wind storm come through, they have wood processers and have piles as big as a basketball court and have no problems that im awear of. Snow on piled wood only covers the top and leaves the rest to dry, but when it melts stacked or not it will not overcome gravity. All of this is based on my area witch is the only place I have dryed wood except for the state of CA your area may be different and U know best for your wood pile. James
 
A Stack is Still Better

I live in SE MO and dont know what snow fall was last year but have never had any rot problems. I do realize that a rank or cord will flow more air, but at the same time a pile isnt air tight and will still flow sufficiant air for drying. My piles are tiny compared to some 40 mi north of me where they had a masive wind storm come through, they have wood processers and have piles as big as a basketball court and have no problems that im awear of. Snow on piled wood only covers the top and leaves the rest to dry, but when it melts stacked or not it will not overcome gravity. All of this is based on my area witch is the only place I have dryed wood except for the state of CA your area may be different and U know best for your wood pile. James

Well, James, I still recomend that you stack the wood in rows. The driest logs will usually be at the top of the stack where the sun and wind strikes them. They are also the easiest to retrieve.

Reaching to the center top of a random pile that is 20' or so in diameter at the base is not my cup of tea, nor is an avalanche. Yes, it takes time to stack wood, but in the long run, it is worth it. Criss cross stack the ends and the stack will remain square going up without an end stake. :smile:
 
That's true. Then you can watch the pile get covered with lots of snow and ice and the center of the pile will rot away because it never dries. :sad:

Doc,
I wuz thinking about that a few days ago. Wondering if you put some pallets in the middle of the piles or maybe some perforated PVC pipes through the middle to aerate the piles would that create enough airflow to the damp core of the wood stack.

A
 
Doc,
I wuz thinking about that a few days ago. Wondering if you put some pallets in the middle of the piles or maybe some perforated PVC pipes through the middle to aerate the piles would that create enough airflow to the damp core of the wood stack.

A

Yo Angelo whassup!!!

I think that any method of keeping the wood off the ground will reduce the rot. Big time. Pallets definitely help. I put a gravel floor in my woodshed, and I have never had a problem with rot, as I stack the wood right on the gravel.

Look forward to seeing ya at the next gtg.
 
Yo Angelo whassup!!!

I think that any method of keeping the wood off the ground will reduce the rot. Big time. Pallets definitely help. I put a gravel floor in my woodshed, and I have never had a problem with rot, as I stack the wood right on the gravel.

Look forward to seeing ya at the next gtg.

Roger that !!!

In the mean time enjoy the wintery way...it only lasts a few months for us each year...
 
Pallet Foundation Plans

Doc,
I wuz thinking about that a few days ago. Wondering if you put some pallets in the middle of the piles or maybe some perforated PVC pipes through the middle to aerate the piles would that create enough airflow to the damp core of the wood stack.

A
I try to get the wood off the ground a few inches or on top of loose gravel or river rock so that it won't freeze to the ground. This spring I'm going to build a flooring for the main pile using some free pallets that a trucker offerered to me. Right now all I'm using are some rough cut 2 x 4s and 2 x 6s that I salvaged, but that's not sufficient. The bottom layer can steel freeze on them.

I usually just criss cross stack the ends of each row and go up 7' high. Then I space the rows about a foot apart. That gets the air in there. Each row is about 25' long, so this spring I'll use 6 pallets in length and two rows ber pallet. I have about 30 pallets on hand and that should easily handle 10 rows. Loose gravel would probably be easier, but the pallets are free.
 
I try to get the wood off the ground a few inches or on top of loose gravel or river rock so that it won't freeze to the ground. This spring I'm going to build a flooring for the main pile using some free pallets that a trucker offerered to me. Right now all I'm using are some rough cut 2 x 4s and 2 x 6s that I salvaged, but that's not sufficient. The bottom layer can steel freeze on them.

I usually just criss cross stack the ends of each row and go up 7' high. Then I space the rows about a foot apart. That gets the air in there. Each row is about 25' long, so this spring I'll use 6 pallets in length and two rows ber pallet. I have about 30 pallets on hand and that should easily handle 10 rows. Loose gravel would probably be easier, but the pallets are free.

Im with ya Doc on the stacking, my problem is I am the worlds worst stacker. Probably has to do with the fact that I hate stacking. Love cutting, burning, splitting building saws and everything else but stacking is shear pain for me. I also usually end up re-stacking most of my stacks anyway...I'm thinking I could get more done if I just piled it up high and pulled off the pile when loading. Fully aware that pallets underneath is an almost must but my question has to do with getting air through the middle of a big pile. If you just throw a few pallets in the middle that would work somewhat. or just throw a few perforated PVC pipes to get airflow ?
Got a friend that owns a pallet company so that's not a problem at all.
 
Gettin back to iamspt hyjacket thread

Gettin back to your Question. IMASPT ,...I would elevate the output chute up and maybe add length to build a higher pile, Good Luck My Friend, Eric
 

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