Stubborn Cylinder Bolt

[mheim1]

Need some advice again:
-put my 066 crankcase back together
-put new oil-seals on
-installed new piston
-put cylinder on with 0.5mm metal (rubber coated) gasket underneath
-measured squish at 0.031"
-leak check
:censored:

leaked underneath the gasket.
So, I tighened the bolts a little bit more (bad mistake) and leak checked again.
Same leak.
Figured I have to remove the cylinder again and smoothen out the crankcase (maybe the cleanup on both sides was not equal). Typically, I always used a T27 "nut-driver" with the handle cut off, inserted into a 8mm socket.
Always worked like a charm; until now:

I not only broke one of those things, but 2; and the bolt (right side, first picture) is not coming out. I have to get a new tool tomorrow, but in the meantime, I need suggestions.
-Should I heat it up with a air-gut?
-Stick it in the oven (hate to do this with new seals)?
-....

 

[tlandrum]

broken torx are not uncommon. the only one i have not broken is my wiha t27 from baileys.

 

[logging22]

Did you loctite it? What color? May have to find a way to heat it a bit.

 

[lone wolf]

It aint a 20 inch truck wheel lug nut.Take it apart and seal both sides of the gasket with Yamabond 4 or its equal.Are the wrenches made in China?Use a quality torx wrench.Don't go gorilla on it.

 

[HD2010]

Try an impact. If you don't have one put torx in bolt and whack it with a hammer a few times. That should knock it loose.

 

[lone wolf]

Put some heat on it don't burn it up.

 

[sefh3]

I have a long Thandle Stihl torx that I use. My dealer had it on the counter one day and I bought it from him. I have never broke it yet and I have rebuild a ton of saws with it. If you have a Sears close they stock longer T 27 torx. If you did use loctite you need to get it warm. I would try a heat gun first.
Use some Dirko or Yamahabond like mentioned and smear some around the leak.

 

[Stihlofadeal64]

broken torx are not uncommon. the only one i have not broken is my wiha t27 from baileys.

+1 for me here. Don't skimp on the T27. I broke several cheapies off before I invested in some quality tools. You won't regret it. I've not tackled anything yet that the WIHA won't handle!

 

[mheim1]

I'll see what I find tomorrow in regards to a proper tool.
I do have a Stihl T-handle, but that won't do it.
I usually liked the setup as I can control the torgue.
I was (and still am) just surprised that the damn thing won't come an hour after I put it in (without any loctite).
Hope I have better luck tomorrow.
Thanks guys.

 

[lone wolf]

I'll see what I find tomorrow in regards to a proper tool.
I do have a Stihl T-handle, but that won't do it.
I usually liked the setup as I can control the torgue.
I was (and still am) just surprised that the damn thing won't come an hour after I put it in (without any loctite).
Hope I have better luck tomorrow.
Thanks guys.

Tap the head Counter Clockwise with a small sharp chisel while someone else turns the wrench at the same exact time.

 

[Roanoker494]

May sound odd but put the other bolts back in, tighten them down and take the stubborn one out first. The rest of the cylinder is trying to raise up which is causing the one bolt to bind, you would have likely broken it off or stripped it out if the torx had not went first.

 

[blsnelling]

I've broken two Wihas on the 290-390 series saws. Those 4 bottom bolts can be a real booger to get loose.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Looking at your pict there appears to be a piece missing from your gasket. You can use the Stihl T handled scrench to remove those base screws by drilling out the access holes to 21/64`s, I have done this many times and it works everytime. The stihl scrench has a very hard tip.

 

[mheim1]

May sound odd but put the other bolts back in, tighten them down and take the stubborn one out first. The rest of the cylinder is trying to raise up which is causing the one bolt to bind, you would have likely broken it off or stripped it out if the torx had not went first.

I was thinking about that as well.

Looking at your pict there appears to be a piece missing from your gasket. You can use the Stihl T handled scrench to remove those base screws by drilling out the access holes to 21/64`s, I have done this many times and it works everytime. The stihl scrench has a very hard tip.

The gasket is fully there (just the angle of the picture).
I might try the scrench if everything else fails.
Thanks.

 

[discounthunter]

are your cases even together all the way? matbe its the picture but that seems like a big gap between the two. that would certainly cause a leak,it would also bind up the screws.

 

[mheim1]

are your cases even together all the way? matbe its the picture but that seems like a big gap between the two. that would certainly cause a leak,it would also bind up the screws.

Cases are all together; maybe the gasket I cut is just a little bit thicker than the original; anyways it's not leaking there.
However, I finally found time to run to Sears and buy a new T27 and gave it another try.
This time, I heated the area up with a heat gun for 5min (after it was soaking in WD40 for a day) and just put some vice grips around the standard Craftsman looking tool.
Got the screw out
The T27 took a good twist, but didn't break this time and maybe Sears will even take it back.

Thanks again for all the advise; this saw is just getting the best of me, and taking forever.

 

[Jeff Lary]

May sound odd but put the other bolts back in, tighten them down and take the stubborn one out first. The rest of the cylinder is trying to raise up which is causing the one bolt to bind, you would have likely broken it off or stripped it out if the torx had not went first.

What he said, go slow and good luck