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thanks for the quick responses guys. much appreciated. at least i learned one thing today even if its not related to posting pix.
Trx250r180
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thomas1
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more naughty sites Tom ?
Nope. Flag with an "L".
PP-655 crank bearing.
In dire need of a flywheel side bearing for a Poulan Pro 655/Pioneer P-62. #507433355. 16mm x 11mm x 35mm w/ large radius on inner ring.
Original on right next to one with a normal radius.
I have two on order with Parts Tree (long story) but they are not forthcoming.:censored:
Only other option I have is to chuck the crank in a lathe and reduce the fillet radius........................................Yikes!
Lots of junk to trade or long green or a new bearing when Parts Tree gets their act together.
I have everything else in hand to put him together.:bang:
Carl.
In dire need of a flywheel side bearing for a Poulan Pro 655/Pioneer P-62. #507433355. 16mm x 11mm x 35mm w/ large radius on inner ring.
Original on right next to one with a normal radius.
I have two on order with Parts Tree (long story) but they are not forthcoming.:censored:
Only other option I have is to chuck the crank in a lathe and reduce the fillet radius........................................Yikes!
Lots of junk to trade or long green or a new bearing when Parts Tree gets their act together.
I have everything else in hand to put him together.:bang:
Carl.
thomas1
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In dire need of a flywheel side bearing for a Poulan Pro 655/Pioneer P-62. #507433355. 16mm x 11mm x 35mm w/ large radius on inner ring.
Original on right next to one with a normal radius.
I have two on order with Parts Tree (long story) but they are not forthcoming.:censored:
Only other option I have is to chuck the crank in a lathe and reduce the fillet radius........................................Yikes!
Lots of junk to trade or long green or a new bearing when Parts Tree gets their act together.
I have everything else in hand to put him together.:bang:
Carl.
If you're chucking stuff up, why not grind the radius on the bearing? Bearings gotta be cheaper than cranks, correct?
Darn betcha cheaper.
I've thought about that. But, how are you going to hold onto the inner race? Then, remove all the grinding debris.
Ordered another one from Jacks Small Engines. We'll see if it actually turns up or just another website that needs updated.
Did you order those generic bearings through VXB?
VXB? Who are they?
The bearing on the left above I got from a local auto/truck parts store. Didn't notice the difference in the inner ring untill I got him together and the crank wouldn't turn.
The original bearing has '6202' on the outer ring. And, it is 35mm o.d. and 11mm wide. That's where the resemblence ends.
From my first attempt, I have one 35mm x 11mm x 5/8" bore that don't fit. Bore is .005" too small.
When I was working as a plant engineer, we had copies of the Bearing Interchange Manual. Two large volumes with every ball, roller, tapered roller bearing, etc. configuration known to man.
The bearing can be taken apart by carefully picking the retainer ring out, the bearings will come out one at a time until the inner race will come out. Then the inner race can be mounted into the chuck, trued and a small grinder like a dremel can be setup to run against the inner bore and make the relief needed.
thomas1
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How critical is that radius? The face of the inner race is still bottoming out on the crank and the radius on the bearing is just there to coincide with radius on the crank, correct? (The radius on the crank being there for strength and to eliminate a potential stress riser?)
I'd be tempted to degrease the bearing and super/hot glue one or two of the balls to the inner and outer race(hopefully that's enough to hold the inner race from spinning). Melt wax into the sides of the bearing, in order to keep the grit out. Chuck the bearing up and grind the radius with whatever you have available.
That or use an expanding mandrel.
I'd be tempted to degrease the bearing and super/hot glue one or two of the balls to the inner and outer race(hopefully that's enough to hold the inner race from spinning). Melt wax into the sides of the bearing, in order to keep the grit out. Chuck the bearing up and grind the radius with whatever you have available.
That or use an expanding mandrel.
How critical is that radius? The face of the inner race is still bottoming out on the crank and the radius on the bearing is just there to coincide with radius on the crank, correct? (The radius on the crank being there for strength and to eliminate a potential stress riser?)
I'd be tempted to degrease the bearing and super/hot glue one or two of the balls to the inner and outer race(hopefully that's enough to hold the inner race from spinning). Melt wax into the sides of the bearing, in order to keep the grit out. Chuck the bearing up and grind the radius with whatever you have available.
That or use an expanding mandrel.
Yes! Hot glue gun. Stuff is easy enuff to peel off when finished.
okay, i called it a sideways terminal cause i don't know the real term. can't even find a pic. but i know there're made cause i took one off my poulan 3800. does anyone know what the proper nomenclature is and/or where these could be obtained? tried the big boxes, radio shack, graingers, etc. no joy. sorry for just the thumbnail.
EVERY FRICKIN TIME I WANT TO POST A PIC ITS TAKES 30 MINUTES TO FIGURE OUT HOW. I'VE ALREADY SPENT MY ALLOTED 30 MINUTES. THIS GETS REALLY OLD. HOW ABOUT SOME HELP FROM THE SITE OWNER?
okay, i'm through venting. sigh!
PM me your address. I will you you a couple.
I need a few presets for some McCulloch 1/2" chain.
Its a bit odd as the rivets are .565" center to center and has a rivet dia of .245"
Let me know if you have any and what you need in trade for some.
Its a bit odd as the rivets are .565" center to center and has a rivet dia of .245"
Let me know if you have any and what you need in trade for some.
machinisttx
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If you have a collet chuck, you can buy reverse collets and machine them to fit the ID. When the collet is tightened in the chuck, the end will expand and grip the bore. If I didn't have a collet chuck or reverse collet, I'd probably resort to a poor boy method that was similar in operation(some actually do operate this way). Make a mandrel that is a few thousandths smaller than the of the ID of the bearing, then drill it fairly deep with a tap drill, countersink(82 degrees) it for a 1/4-20 flathead, then tap it. Scribe the end of the mandrel to quarter it, then cut it on a bandsaw or with a slitting saw(preferable). Don't cut too far down, you only need to go far enough that it will give just enough to grip.
nmurph
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I have a bag of presets that I believe to be 1/2". I will check for you tomorrow or Friday. Remind me if you haven't heard from me by Sat.
I got the oiler pump. I didn't have time to unbox it, but I'm sure it will be plug n' play.
Thanks for the help, and it was nice talking with you.
Neal
nmurph
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I'm on the hunt for the necessary parts to convert a 61 to a 272.
Looking for-
Piston/Cylinder
intake
carb
If you know of other stuff I will need, please let me know. I spent a few minutes scanning some old post, but there were varying opinions of exactly what was needed and what would work.
Thanks,
Neal
Looking for-
Piston/Cylinder
intake
carb
If you know of other stuff I will need, please let me know. I spent a few minutes scanning some old post, but there were varying opinions of exactly what was needed and what would work.
Thanks,
Neal
I have some oregon 1/2" presets, I will need to measure them though as .565 sounds wide.
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