Hate to break the news to you but RPM doesn't guarantee proper tune. I was under the same impression.
Another member reminded me of other factors effecting tune such as load. (ex: tune your saw to the RPM spec using a long bar then throw on a short bar and you're now in lean seize territory). The tach. is a great tool but not a guarantee.
Well as far as bars go, I'm pretty straightforward in that each of my 3 saws only have one bar. Once it is set for that bar, there is no changing bars for me.
I see by your sig that you have many more saws than I do, and I will hazard a guess that you fit into that group of (at least) 95% of AS members who know much more about saws than I do. Therefore I will continue by saying .....
Changing altitude is another factor that I've read about on AS, but I do not believe that it applies in my case as it is quite flat here.
Running with a dirty filter is another way to potentially ruin a saw by leaning it out, but I try and keep my filters clean.
I keep my chains sharp so that the saw doesn't have to work too hard.
I also keep my saws clean overall so that they do not get too hot (clean the cylinder fins, etc).
Considering that I tach both the H and L screws as well as the idle screw (that "bottoms out" against the throttle linkage), what other factors should I be looking at?
This certainly isn't meant as a challenge, but instead is my wanting to learn more so that I don't bugger up my saws.
Thanks!