Tapered shaft to hydrolic pump'

[Brushwacker]

I have a nice generator frame with a nice (I think 11hp or bigger) Robin motor, has a tapered shaft. Is there any mounting hardware availuble to mount one of the 2 stage pumps or has any body tried this ? How big of a motor do I need to run a 22gpm pump ? I have a nice case 3 point mounted on an old trailer frame . The cylinder is attached to a 2 edged knife so it splits both directions. My Brave Horizontal-Verticle just takes to long to feed,retrieve, and cycle the wood (I usually split by myself and most is split small for sale). I used to use the Case with an old wisconsin driving an combine hydrolic pump with belt and pullies. Worked great in warm weather,but was extremely hard to start in cold weather because of the direct load of the pump trying to push cold oil. It has nice shelfs on both sides so your not chasing the other half on the ground. If I ever get that going again I could sell the Brave.

 

[Butch(OH)]

Cant help you with Robin parts but it sounds like the Case/Wisconsin rig only needs a set of longer belts and a lever actuated tightener pulley between the pump and motor to serve as a clutch.

 

[ray benson]

22 gpm 2-stage pump, recommended motor is 12 hp.
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2007072709345563&item=9-4896&catname=hydraulic

 

[olyman]

i have never seen a adaptor to convert the tapered shaft to straight--i bought a 8 hp briggs that way once--tore it apart---welded the crank slowly--lathed it down--and had a friend cut a new keyway--but just cutting a new keyway i got charged 40 clams!!!!!

 

[ericjeeper]

Look up love joy couplings

surely someone makes a lovejoy that will attach to a tapered shaft.

 

[Al Smith]

There were a certain number of engines made that used a tapered shaft for direct coupling to a generator,Robin/Wisconsin,Briggs etc.

I doubt seriously if Lovejoy makes a tapered coupling or at least I've never seen one.Somebody may in fact make one but I don't know off the top of my head.

Now then,if you knew the taper size,degrees etc you could machine a "Falk" type coupling to work.Most Falks couplings come unmachined for the final hole size.Just trot on down to your friendly neighborhood machine shop and have a chat with a machinest.Bring your checkbook.

 

[olyman]

keyword al is telling ya--bring the checkbook----

 

[Patrick62]

Options?

I had a engine that had a keyway after the tapered part. I simply cut off the extra shaft. If there is sufficient straight shaft, maybe you could cut it off, and key it....

I like the make a adapter idea, except that requires a machine shop, and machinest. Isn't gonna be cheap.

Lovejoy couplers come in a variety of sizes, and 1/2 is about the smallest, how about this crazy idea.... Turn your tapered shaft into a smaller, straight one!
Go get some files, a grinder, other impliments of metal removing.
Start your engine! "lathe" the shaft down until the lovejoy fits real nice. Then cut a keyway with the grinder, finish with a file. This would take time, but would not cost too much $$$

I have done crazier things.....

-pat

 

[Brushwacker]

Thanks for all the replies. I just bought another bad generator with a good motor at an auction. $10 and when I loaded it , it felt like it had a full tank of gas. It is a 7 hp craftsman and I didn't see an decal or I. D. on the engine but have not looked hard at it yet .I started it after I bought it.
I need to find a generator or 2 that works with a bad motor. Or if nothing happens I have an old freind about 150 miles south of here that does machinist work.

 

[Brushwacker]

I had a engine that had a keyway after the tapered part. I simply cut off the extra shaft. If there is sufficient straight shaft, maybe you could cut it off, and key it....

I like the make a adapter idea, except that requires a machine shop, and machinest. Isn't gonna be cheap.

Lovejoy couplers come in a variety of sizes, and 1/2 is about the smallest, how about this crazy idea.... Turn your tapered shaft into a smaller, straight one!
Go get some files, a grinder, other impliments of metal removing.
Start your engine! "lathe" the shaft down until the lovejoy fits real nice. Then cut a keyway with the grinder, finish with a file. This would take time, but would not cost too much $$$

I have done crazier things.....

-pat

I like the idea and it sounds like somthing I would do but I already am backed up about 40 to 50 projects.

 

[Al Smith]

I had a brain storm,or something,might work.I have only had one generater apart that used this tapered shaft set up so it's kind of fuzzy to me.

That said,if the generator is toast,like in crispy critter because all the smoke ran out,perhaps it has enough stub shaft to use as an adapter.To be real honest though I really can't remember how the danged things attach.

 

[Dave]

I made my splitter with a 8 horse generator engine, assembled the pump and bracket and found I had enough shaft- hey, don't go there- to cut off most of the taper and still have plenty to mount the lovejoys to. I dimpled the shaft for the setscrew on the lovejoy and haven't had any problems after about a year and a half and probably a couple dozen cords.

 

[redprospector]

I had a brain storm,or something,might work.I have only had one generater apart that used this tapered shaft set up so it's kind of fuzzy to me.

That said,if the generator is toast,like in crispy critter because all the smoke ran out,perhaps it has enough stub shaft to use as an adapter.To be real honest though I really can't remember how the danged things attach.

On my old Miller Blue Star welder/ generator the tapered shaft went into a flywheel with cooling fins, which attached to the generator shaft. Now a handy person could take that flywheel and cut it away to make a coupler, and there you have it.

Andy

 

[oakman]

there is enough shaft on a generator head to use. the taper fit shaft will have a center bolt holding it to the motor. the way to seperate it from the engine is you stand it pto end up and remove the bolt. you will see the end of the generator shaft is threaded. you find the correct bolt with about 1 1/2 inches of thread, wrap the bolt with yellow teflon tape, fill the shaft with 30 wt. oil making sure you get all the air out, then thread in the bolt and crank until it separates. the hydraulic pressure from cranking the bolt in will pop it apart. they usually come apart with quite a bang. you'll have to cut away all the windings and armature junk. then it's a few minutes on the lathe and you can adapt a standard hydraulic drive coupler to it. have done it several times.