ThankYou Brad! Re:201T Mods.

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Mike Boyer

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A Huge thanks to Brad for sharing his how-to on the 201. I've done a few and they are as good or better than a healthy MS200. I have had a few 201's that didn't want to give up the Flywheel easily so I though I might share my ghetto puller pics in the hope that it will help someone going the DIY route.
The 2 puller holes in the flywheel are 5mm x 0.8 pitch (coarse) thread, and the screws I used were 2" long, the angle iron was 1/4" thick. The "Puller" bolt was 5/16-18, and I tapped the angle iron rather than weld a nut on, and I put the center point on the bolt using the vertical belt sander (rather than gettin' all fancy with the Lathe).
The angle iron never touched the case while "pulling", although it may look that way, and once I was done Filing the key I snugged the puller down with a pair of wood spacer shims so I had an extended "Arm" to measure the actual degrees gained by lightly seating the flywheel and moving it back and forth with the key engaged in the shaft keyway. I went slow on the filing, with a small Half-round File-using the flat side to narrow the key, BUT, even though I was aiming for 6 degrees, I still ended up overshooting it slightly, winding up with close to 8 degrees by my best Visual interpolation using a transposed degree wheel, and also a small protractor.
The end result with ~8deg. adv., a .410" hole in the Muffler, and 2.5 turns out on the Hi screw was a saw that cuts faster than our best 200T (still a fresh muff modded runner), and after Much cautious testing, and probably 15-20 "Plug Reads", I settled on the 2.5 turns on Hi. I'm at sea level, and both power and plug "reads" suggest that 2 turns out may still be safe and provide max power-But, like many others, I would rather give up a tiny gain for the sake of safety-I will say that 3 turns out on Hi was noticeably Fat, both in the cut and Esp. on the plug. I should also note that I arrived at the 2.5 on a Cool clear 50 deg. F morning and I will be checking the Plug regularly for quite a while going forward to see how sensative this puppy is to the weather.
I did the carb limiter and muffler first, made some cuts, and then did the Ignition Advance. The throttle response and pulling power in the cut after the ignition mod. can't be understated! What a transformation! OK, on to the pics-(I Hope)

Puller in place;

Puller closeup;

Closeup showing the Gullet next to the Key;

Backside of F/W showing side to file in order to gain advance;

Removed bits;


On re-assembly I made sure the shaft and F/W bore were nice and clean, I tapped the F/W home with a socket-It no longer rotated by hand, I looked up the torque spec.--they give you Newton Meters(what else?), and that figure converts to a hair over 18 Ft./Lbs. Sooo, I held the F/W with a welding glove-had a 13mm wrench on the clutch hub as a backup, set the pointer on my Snap-On torque wrench at 10, and with All my Gloved-hand-on-Flywheel "Holdback", I moved the witness needle all the way to 16ft./Lbs.! I guess I'm just plain weak! Regarding sticking a rope in the spark plug hole, I've done that plenty of times on other 2T motors, and using the clutch hub as a holdback might risk tweaking the crank, But I made the Executive decision that 16 was Good Enuf (I did pull the cover after a day and attempt a re-torque-it didn't budge), So I'm gonna go with 16 and if coming up 2 Ft./lbs. short blows up in my face, I Promise to post it here-Pics and all!
I hope this helps or encourages someone who might otherwise leave this little gem "in the rough" This Puppy just needs-I mean Begs(!) to be "fixed"!
But most of all, Thank You! Thank You! Thank You! Mr. Snelling! You are a selfless Hero to the Masses! I actually feel guilty! Like I should send you a royalty--or at least a saw to mod so I can Pay you more than just a compliment!
You Know, Along that line, as it happens, I've got an 044, an "Old-like new" 371xp, and an Old-like new" 394xp...Would you be interested in working your magic on one of those? (WOW! Here I am assuming you actually read this!)...That might be the worst breach of posting etiquette there is! NO Offense mean't--I woke up in New jersey back in 1985 and I've been trying to escape ever since! (You can get in for "Free", But you can't leave NJ without paying a bridge toll (or is that Troll?)-last I checked that is!)
Thanks, regards, Mike
 
Brad... Thanks a million man!!! I have done some cutting with the Snellerized baby dragon, 201T. There is no doubt that it now outperforms any 200T that I have owned or used, and is many times over a much better saw than the stock 201T. Thanks for solving such a huge headache. I will be back with more big saw projects for ya. Also thanks for letting me experience the beastly stable of your huskies. I now have a permanent case of saw envy )-:. LOL.
 
I have heard that Stihl has made some changes since the first 201's came out, but from what I've seen they still aren't near as good as the one's with Brad's recipe of modifications. I've done 6 of these now, and they really do get better after a good bit of hard running. Still, I'm sure that a lot of tree guys wouldn't even dare do a MM if they hadn't seen proof safety (reliability) and because of that, there are a lot of poor running saws in the field right now-But the 201's I've modded aren't in that group! Thanks again Brad,
Regards, Mike
 
I have heard that Stihl has made some changes since the first 201's came out, but from what I've seen they still aren't near as good as the one's with Brad's recipe of modifications.
The saws coming out of the factory do run much better than they originally did , although still not near to their potential. They're at least useable now.

I believe you are specifically referring to the replacement coil, flywheel, and carb. I installed that kit on a 201, and it made no improvement in performance at all.
 
Thanks for clearing that up Brad. I picked up a 201 for basically nothing because it was partially smashed, and the "Mechanic" had determined that the coil was "Bad". I don't pretend to know what sort of electronics they may have come up with for these coils, but they sure cost way too much, and after poking around with Ohm meter, I suspected the coil wasn't the problem(and it wasn't). I don't know if this is true of all 201 coils, but this one Would Not produce a spark across the gap of an old school clamp-on tester (the open air type). Once installed in the cylinder, the plug fired just fine. I'm baffled by this, but glad I didn't spend 170 bucks for an unnecessary part! I'd love to know if this is standard, and if so, what the procedure for testing is.
Regards, Mike
 
The ms201 was a let down initially from Stihl, av and fuel consumtion were its only advantages over a 200 series saw. Long before Stihl came out with its 201 'upgrade kit' Bradley S was right on top of it modding many saws and making many arborist's smile. Virtually exactly what Brad has been doing to 201's for years is now Stihl's new formula for that saw. l have a rear handle 201 he did for me and it's no slouch at all! lt is very rarely that a backyard modder knows something that the OEM does not.....this was one of those rare occasions and credit too him. To the OP, do yourself a favour and get him to build you a strato gutted ms261(non cm)...they are REALLY impressive!!
 
The ms201 was a let down initially from Stihl, av and fuel consumtion were its only advantages over a 200 series saw. Long before Stihl came out with its 201 'upgrade kit' Bradley S was right on top of it modding many saws and making many arborist's smile. Virtually exactly what Brad has been doing to 201's for years is now Stihl's new formula for that saw. l have a rear handle 201 he did for me and it's no slouch at all! lt is very rarely that a backyard modder knows something that the OEM does not.....this was one of those rare occasions and credit too him. To the OP, do yourself a favour and get him to build you a strato gutted ms261(non cm)...they are REALLY impressive!!

Im with ya on the 261 , the one brad built me is a terror
 
The saws coming out of the factory do run much better than they originally did , although still not near to their potential. They're at least useable now.

I believe you are specifically referring to the replacement coil, flywheel, and carb. I installed that kit on a 201, and it made no improvement in performance at all.

Brad is there anyway to tell if you get a new one from the shelves if it has the upgrade ? Dealers that dont move many saws may still be selling the outdated 201s ..is there any way to distinguish ?
 
Don't want to speak for blsnelling but the service bulletin that describes the upgrades is 40.2013...so sometime in 2013 they made the changes. There is no serial break in that bulletin so to my knowledge the only way to know if the saws on your dealers shelves have the upgrades would be to look at the coil...I can't remember the upgraded coil number off my head but can check tomorrow if you're interested.
 
Current manufacture or old, they all benefit significantly from the mods I do to these saws. I installed the new coil, flywheel, and carb on a test saw, and saw no gains in performance.
Are you still advancing the new flywheels timing the same as you do the old? I understand the new flywheels already have a four degree advance compared to the early models. You generally shoot for 6-8 degrees?
 
Current manufacture or old, they all benefit significantly from the mods I do to these saws. I installed the new coil, flywheel, and carb on a test saw, and saw no gains in performance.

That's contrary to what I've seen and heard Brad. They're not going to match one of your modded 201's but they are a big improvement over the original, gutless, 201T. Out here they are calling them the Mk II but not sure if that what they are openly being called or internally by Stihl. Bennn*e will know being a gold cert Stihl tech - he was the one who originally informed me of this kit being released.
 
I concur that current production runs much better than when they first come out, but that's been the case longer than this coil, flywheel, and carb kit had been available. The 201 I tested on showed no improvement at all. I guess that's kind of beside the point though. Just don't anyone waste your money on the kit. It can be quite pricey, and does nothing a few cheap mods will do.

It would be nice if Stihl would be a little more forth coming with information. The way it stands, there's no clear way to know what version you have.
 
You can check the part number on the coil. 1145 1300 stamped on the coil means you have the early version. 1145 1302 is the new one. The actual part numbers are 1145 400 1310 is the old and nla and 1145 400 1302 is the new one. Also you can check your flywheel 1145 400 1200 is the old. 1145 400 1202 is the new one with the 4* advance over the previous flywheel.
 
Yea I'm not sure how your dealer would feel if you went in and just started disassembling a saw on the showroom to find out if it has the updates...Stihl should provide a serial break.
 
You can check the part number on the coil. 1145 1300 stamped on the coil means you have the early version. 1145 1302 is the new one. The actual part numbers are 1145 400 1310 is the old and nla and 1145 400 1302 is the new one. Also you can check your flywheel 1145 400 1200 is the old. 1145 400 1202 is the new one with the 4* advance over the previous flywheel.
I will check my MS 201 C-E, 2013 tomorrow to see if the coil and flywheel are the new or old version
 
I will check my MS 201 C-E, 2013 tomorrow to see if the coil and flywheel are the new or old version
You'll have to pull the flywheel to see the part number of it but post up what you find.
 
Here are the parts from the upgrade kit. I found some pictures.

IMG_2192-L.jpg


IMG_2195-L.jpg


IMG_2196-L.jpg


IMG_2197-L.jpg


IMG_2201-L.jpg


IMG_2215-L.jpg




Stock but broken in saw.


Upgrade kit installed


Snellerized


Another brand new saw same day, stock.


Snellerized without the upgrade kit


You can hear that the new coil raises the rev limited, but that does nothing for RPMs in the cut.
 
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