The Best Wood Hauler/Fishing/Knock-Around Truck?

[apn73]

I will give them the fact that they paid us back, and we get along fairly well with them now.

Better trucks? Maybe if you are using it as a run around. I've yet to see one actually working though. The day I see one dragging a gooseneck around at 20,000lbs plus then we'll find out. And, I may be a bit partial due to the area I live in. Have many friends and family in the big three and I would much rather support them, as to someone half way around the globe.

OP, I'm not a huge Ford fan, but the old 300 I-6 is very reliable, if you can find one that someone is willing to part with. 302s and 351s I've been around really like drinking gas. As for the Chevy, 4.3 or 5.0 will serve well, but 5.7 would be my choice for a gasser. Here's where I'll get chastised, but don't overlook the 6.5 turbo diesel that was available in 90's 1/2 tons. They got a bad rap due to no dealer support, but not a bad old engine.

Open your eyes. I believe that the Tundra and Titan were rated to tow 10,000 lbs. as a half-ton trucks before any fo the big three were. American idealism and exceptionalism is a very good thing, the UAW is neither and the city of Detroit is now laying in ruin partly because of them.

 

[Streblerm]

Not many people know the Dakota originated on the Dodge Diplomat frame. The 256 (6 cyl variant of the 318) or 318 2 wd gen 1 or 2 Dakota is a forever vehicle in op's neck of the woods

They may share some of the suspension/steering (gm did this with the S-10) but not frames. The M-body chryslers were unibodies and the dakotas have a full frame. A Dakota is definitely worth considering. I have seen lots of the 3.9s with high miles. The dakota is a nice size too.

Back on topic, I don't think you could go wron with eaither a ford or gm 1/2 ton truck. the 4.3/5.0/5.7 gm engines and the modular fords are all capable of reaching 250K miles with the right maintenance. the 300 I-6 is bulletproof but has been out of production for almost 20 years.

The transmission is the wildcard. Any auto trans with the age/mileage you are looking at could be a potential issue. A manual may be a good bet but even that isn't fool proof. Ford put some pretty marginal manual transmissions behing the 300 six toward the end. Same as the rangers and bad ratios for a 1/2 ton truck.

Condition and maintenance would be more of a concern to me than exact make and model.

 

[sunfish]

My first Ford truck was a 2wd 1981 F150 300 six 4 speed overdrive manual. Got 20-22 mpg on the hwy. Wouldn't pull worth a crap, geared too high, put a 3.25 in the rear and it was much better and still got 18-20.

Several years and trucks later I end up with a 1980 4wd F150 300 six 4 speed granny and geared lower (3.50) got 16-18 mpg. It would pull anything I hooked to it and was bullet proof as well.

Had most brands and configurations. My choice now for a work truck would be a Ford with a 300 six and a 5 speed manual.

But I have a 4wd 94 Toyota with almost 300k that is unbelievable! And a 02 Dakota 4door, 4wd, 4.7 that's my road truck. I love it!

Have never wanted a Chevy, but I need to get another Ford!

 

[zogger]

My first Ford truck was a 2wd 1981 F150 300 six 4 speed overdrive manual. Got 20-22 mpg on the hwy. Wouldn't pull worth a crap, geared too high, put a 3.25 in the rear and it was much better and still got 18-20.

Several years and trucks later I end up with a 1980 4wd F150 300 six 4 speed granny and geared lower (3.50) got 16-18 mpg. It would pull anything I hooked to it and was bullet proof as well.

Had most brands and configurations. My choice now for a work truck would be a Ford with a 300 six and a 5 speed manual.

But I have a 4wd 94 Toyota with almost 300k that is unbelievable! And a 02 Dakota 4door, 4wd, 4.7 that's my road truck. I love it!

Have never wanted a Chevy, but I need to get another Ford!

Any of the big three straight sixes seem to be real nice engines. I have had examples of all three and all were tops. I will include chrysler slant six in there as well.

 

[sunfish]

Any of the big three straight sixes seem to be real nice engines. I have had examples of all three and all were tops. I will include chrysler slant six in there as well.

I agree! Even the Chevy and especially the slant six!

My first truck at 14 was a 65 Dodge with a 225 slant six. Couldn't kill it and I tried! :msp_biggrin:

 

[sunfish]

I agree! Even the Chevy and especially the slant six!

My first truck at 14 was a 65 Dodge with a 225 slant six. Couldn't kill it and I tried! :msp_biggrin:

But the Ford 300 had the most torque! :msp_smile:

 

[zogger]

But the Ford 300 had the most torque! :msp_smile:

I think any of the engines (any config or cylinder count) from any manufacturer that are designed and sold cross duty as industrial engines are pretty good. My ratsun truck engine is the four cylinder industrial/forklift diesel engine.

There was a guy down in south georgia was putting tractor engines in trucks, but no idea if the business took off or not. He was claiming lots more torque/power/ and fantastic mileage over regular vehicle engines. Not fast, trucks would barely make it on the highway at normal highway speeds, but real rugged, mileage to drool over allegedly.

I used to have the bookmark for his site but it is on a trashed hard drive in another computer.

My google fu was good!

Here is the site

Shade Tree Conversions at Shade Tree Conversions.

 

[sunfish]

Zog, that is cool man!

I'd like to put a small diesel in the old Toyota at some point.

 

[arrow]

They may share some of the suspension/steering (gm did this with the S-10) but not frames. The M-body chryslers were unibodies and the dakotas have a full frame. A Dakota is definitely worth considering. I have seen lots of the 3.9s with high miles. The dakota is a nice size too.

Back on topic, I don't think you could go wron with eaither a ford or gm 1/2 ton truck. the 4.3/5.0/5.7 gm engines and the modular fords are all capable of reaching 250K miles with the right maintenance. the 300 I-6 is bulletproof but has been out of production for almost 20 years.

The transmission is the wildcard. Any auto trans with the age/mileage you are looking at could be a potential issue. A manual may be a good bet but even that isn't fool proof. Ford put some pretty marginal manual transmissions behing the 300 six toward the end. Same as the rangers and bad ratios for a 1/2 ton truck.

Condition and maintenance would be more of a concern to me than exact make and model.

The first Dakotas were planned on the Diplomat "frame" or unibody. The derivative was so close to the M body that the Dakota was called the "N" body. It was just short of production that Chrysler decided to go with the traditional body on frame mostly for towing purposes. The Dakota shared all the Diplomats suspension, brakes, drive line components and steering as it needed to be built as cheaply as possible. The Diplomat was a simple car that could go forever. Chrysler wanted a cheap truck to be able to do the same thing and is why it makes this vehicle a good bet.

 

[ReggieT]

Update on truck hunt!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Well looks like this truck is going to have to be a "Wonder Truck" of sorts.
Just found out that I need to rest my wife's car that is starting to creep up on high miles...which means my wife will be driving this truck about 7 days a month @ a clip of 75 miles a day and then I will be driving it to School about 10 times a month which is a 125 mile round trip 4 times per week...and then pulling alternate duty as "Yard Hog & Light Wood Hauler" on the weekend!!! GEEZ!

So now I'm looking @ Toyota Tacoma's in the 4 cyl & 6 banger...although the V6 Toyota offers doesn't get much better fuel economy than the GMC/Chevy/Ford's!!!:bang:

OK...here's the deal: I need the durability, fuel economy & low maintenance of the Toyota...but I love the Ride, Comfort, Weight & Security of the Big Trucks!!!! I'm just not sure they can take that kinda pounding, especially if they're already on the backside of a 100K PLUS miles!!
What's a Fellow to do?????

HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
All my big trucks in my cash price range are "HIGH MILEAGE...of course...yet the Toyota's are Higher than a dam cat's back!:msp_scared:

I may wind up putting $4-5K down on something & financing the balance through my local yokel Credit Union...unless a miracle happens!!!:confused2:

Later....
Reg

 

[bentring]

With that type of driving you might be better off to limit your truck money to the 1500-2000 dollar range and spend the rest on a good gas sipping car for the immediate future.

I doubt I'll ever get rid of my old 93 F250 because I do need it for a lot of things (and it only has 150k miles on it), but when it's just a case of getting me somewhere and not tools, material, scaffolding etc I always drive the beater car if the wife is using hers that day. 30 mpg on gas doesn't hurt the wallet nearly as much as 16 mpg on diesel.

 

[Philbo]

I drive a '97 Ford F-150 4x4 (Supercab, 4.6L V8, 5spd MT with 3.53 rear end) and use it to haul wood and anything else that I think it can safely haul. The manual states that this configuration is only good for 3000 lbs above the base weight of the truck (around 8000 lbs total weight) That's pretty much the range I've stayed in. Monday, I had 1.2 tons of crusher run gravel. Today probably just shy of a ton of mulch. Definitely loaded it up with at least a ton of firewood plenty of times. Towed a small 5x8 utility trailer loaded with all kinds of things inside.

The 4.6 is kind of a dog for a V8 (I live in the mountains and drive up and down them daily) where I live and definitely drinks gas like beer (10-12 mpg when hauling stuff) but all in all it's a decent truck for what it can do. I really love a manual transmission even though apparently the one in my F150 can't handle anywhere near as much weight/towing as the auto...

If you are on flat ground, this configuration could work really well for a good all around truck...gas mileage would be the killer. Good luck finding a Tacoma at a reasonable price...

I kind of want a 3/4 ton or 1 ton truck that will get around the same mileage and be able to handle a whole lot more weight/towing, but that's not quite in the cards right now for our family.

Oh yeah, my F150 just rolled over 303k miles a couple weeks ago and everything on the engine/drivetrain is original. I wouldn't let "the backside of 100k miles" be any deterrent on its own...it's more important how it's been taken care of it's whole life, not just the miles.

 

[ReggieT]

With that type of driving you might be better off to limit your truck money to the 1500-2000 dollar range and spend the rest on a good gas sipping car for the immediate future.

I doubt I'll ever get rid of my old 93 F250 because I do need it for a lot of things (and it only has 150k miles on it), but when it's just a case of getting me somewhere and not tools, material, scaffolding etc I always drive the beater car if the wife is using hers that day. 30 mpg on gas doesn't hurt the wallet nearly as much as 16 mpg on diesel.

Hmm...that is a decent idea for sure. I gotta get it over with...before I go stir crazy...hours & hours, and countless emails to "phantom sellers" via email...asking for more info...is getting really old.
So my goal is to pull the plug this weekend...I'm hooking up on something with 4 wheels and bed liner attached to it!!opcorn:

Thanks Man!
God Bless ya

 

[ReggieT]

I drive a '97 Ford F-150 4x4 (Supercab, 4.6L V8, 5spd MT with 3.53 rear end) and use it to haul wood and anything else that I think it can safely haul. The manual states that this configuration is only good for 3000 lbs above the base weight of the truck (around 8000 lbs total weight) That's pretty much the range I've stayed in. Monday, I had 1.2 tons of crusher run gravel. Today probably just shy of a ton of mulch. Definitely loaded it up with at least a ton of firewood plenty of times. Towed a small 5x8 utility trailer loaded with all kinds of things inside.

The 4.6 is kind of a dog for a V8 (I live in the mountains and drive up and down them daily) where I live and definitely drinks gas like beer (10-12 mpg when hauling stuff) but all in all it's a decent truck for what it can do. I really love a manual transmission even though apparently the one in my F150 can't handle anywhere near as much weight/towing as the auto...

If you are on flat ground, this configuration could work really well for a good all around truck...gas mileage would be the killer. Good luck finding a Tacoma at a reasonable price...

I kind of want a 3/4 ton or 1 ton truck that will get around the same mileage and be able to handle a whole lot more weight/towing, but that's not quite in the cards right now for our family.

Oh yeah, my F150 just rolled over 303k miles a couple weeks ago and everything on the engine/drivetrain is original. I wouldn't let "the backside of 100k miles" be any deterrent on its own...it's more important how it's been taken care of it's whole life, not just the miles.

Philbo,

Thanks for sharing that info. just got contacted by a guy who has a 97 Ford Lariat 3 Dr, auto, 2wd 4.6V8 with 128K...books & records...and pretty dang clean...says the only thing is he can't get the "check engine light" to go says the code reads something about a vapor sensor leak or something...
He wants about $3800 for it...says he inherited it from his Mother.

Hmm...Yet there's a 97 Chevy Silverado loaded with tonneau cover, leather,aut,o 2wd 3 dr 350.5.7 V8...with 144K. This fairy wants $3,800 wants fer it!!!....decisions, decisions!

Thanks for the feedback...btw...which would you go for? The Chevy I would eventually have to remove the pretty ground effects for the real "Man-Beast" task!!:msp_unsure:
Last, but not least is the wildcard of the bunch: 1999 Toyota Tacoma Prerunner V6 2WD Automatic. EXT cabm auto, Appx 95,000 on a rebuilt motor. 222K on whole truck, AC/ Heat works great. Has appx 2000 miles on tires and are in great shape. Sunroof. Has new water pump, radiator, timing belt and front left inner tie rod end. Transmission fluid changed, tune up and fresh oil change. Paint is fading on the hood and roof , has a few dents and driver seat is torn...$4000.00!!!!:dunno:

Tired as $#@$^^**(^
I'm...out

REG

 

[hdp]

lol your probably the same guy who #####es about the economy as you buy Toyotas, save it pal

 

[zogger]

Try the atlanta and nwga craigslist. You should be able to find a decent car and a truck for two grand apiece. Just use the cost filter thing

 

[sunfish]

Nothing wrong with Toyota.

Of the three your lookin at, I'd take the Toyota first, Ford second.


Would not be interested in the other. :msp_wink:

 

[Philbo]

Out of the 3 you posted above, I'd go for the Chevy...but it's really impossible to tell without actually seeing the trucks in person. Go drive em and see what you think.

Personally, I'd look for a 3/4 ton Chevy, Ford, or Dodge with 4x4 and manual but that's just me.

 

[sunfish]

I have to have 4wd here and prefer a manual.

I'll not speak bad about Chevy, but a Ford, Dodge or Toyota is better for me.

 

[blades]

Vapor sensor must be in the fuel system, gas cap might be bad or the carbon canister.
99 F150 4x4 4.6 v8 187k on it when I got rid of it last fall, bent frame, friggin potholes up here, To much money to get frame corrected, something I could not do. Guy I sold it to is still driving it, I don't know if he got the frame squared away or not. He had a friend in the business. I hauled full sized horizontal mill in the back of that unit all of a ton and then a bit, a lot of wood, big trailers and what not all + a little snow plowing. Got a heavy 06 F250 now 5.4 up front. Better gear ratios for hauling.