The slanted cut on removing tops...

[John Paul Sanborn]

The slanted cut on removing tops...

it is slanted in the aspect to the axis of the brnach, but comes down perpendicular to the grounsd. I think of it as a "spear cut" comes off sharp plunges down. Never used a pull line on this cut, It is inteded for the weight of the branch and gravity to get it straight through the crown.

on small stuff, I will just make a salami cut right through from the top, on bigger stuff, I'll make a curf on the bottom so it will fail sudeen like a jump cut.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

Like this:

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

Then this:

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

Finally:

 

[rbtree]

Good one, Mike..the red is signifying blood, eh?!

If one feels the need to spear cut, make sure the piece is smallish. Ascertain that it is weighted in the planned falling direction. Then, allow it to tip slightly away before slicing the butt free.

A precaution, don't try this with a heavy leaner, as barber chair is a distinct possiblility.

All in all, a delicate, dicey maneuver.

 

[Matthew Rieck]

I'm sure that guy didn't look like John Sanborn...


That kind of cutting is risky but does work well.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

Originally posted by Husky 288
Ever consider making cartoons?

No, cartoons are for kids, and I'm not mature enough.

Originally posted by rbtree
Good one, Mike..the red is signifying blood, eh?!

Yep, and did you see his head flying out the side too.

I might do a cut like this on the ground where I can get out of the way if i need to, not in a tree though because there are so many better cuts.

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

The method has it's place, never'd do it where Mike drew it though. Maybe jump it off with him pulling with hsi truck .

 

[Stumper]

LOL at Mike's artwork. Well said. I have never used that technique in the tree except on little stuff. If I can't handle it falling on me I don't want to try that type of cut.
Hmmm.... Now that I've said that, I can think of a couple of big hangers I've used this cut on. Never on a spar I was tied to though.

 

[Tim Gardner]

This method is good when there is not room to drop a whole tree, throw out a top or rope a top over. Getting a top hung up in another tree or having it catch and roll into something sucks. I would not do it on large trees but it is an easy way to knock the top out and get set up to throw logs or blocks out while the crew is clearing the brush.

 

[The Climber]

I don't think JPS was talking about a straight up & down pine because that would make the perpendicular to the ground cut impossible.
How about some cartoons from you JPS.

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

I'm graphicly challenged. Tried the line art and gave it up.

As with any cout, if you feel it may come back on you, you should not be doing it.

It is only aplicable on stems that are loaded awy from you, and that you can cut through fast enough so they will fail out and slide off.

Like a tear cut, you need to know what the peice will doas it fails. with simple rigging cut and guess is sorta ok, but not here.

 

[Kevin]

"The slanted cut"

I`ve never heard of this cut anywhere but here.
I don`t see how it could replace one of the tried and true conventional cuts approved by the industry in creating the standards we use today.
"The" gives it a false implication that many people might actually include this type of cut along with one of the top three.

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

concider it a varient of the salami cut or jump cut.

This brushing a top out real quick. Part of crashing the crown out. Goes along woth "the rip cut" and a few other more advance nonrigging techniques. Not for low impact jobs though.

 

[treeclimber165]

Kevin,
The 'slanted cut' is common among inexperienced cutters who think that they can 'steer' a limb by cutting down in the direction they want it to fall. Some 'pros' have done it long enough that they believe they can still 'steer' a limb using this cut. I use this cut sometimes out of laziness, and when there is no chance of the limb hitting me or any obstacle. I also cut at a slant on some larger limbs (6"-9") so that they will feed into the chipper easier. I do not use this cut as a 'steering' cut.

 

[Kevin]

That`s a good place to put that cut ... right in the chipper.
Now that we`ve found a use for it, it should be renamed "The Chipper Cut"!

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

I don't use it out of laziness, I use it so it falls stright through the canopy without hanging up. Expidiance is not laziness, but efficient use of time.

Never thought of it as a stearing cur, just as a sudden failure cut, like a jump. Oh I said that a few times already.

 

[ramanujan]

A very common method in my part of the country. On small stuff you can start the cut, wait for the top to lean out a little, the nip off the remainder to ensure that the top is on a bit of an angle so that you don't get raked by the limbs.

Around here the cut is known as a "fast cut."

You can take down an entire lombardy poplar this way, just buck off the limbs at ground level after they spear into the ground and a year later the client will have a lovely lombardy hedge

 

[Treeman14]

OK, Brian. Here's a good use for this cut. On a previously topped punk(maleleuca sp.) tree with a whole bunch of 30' uprights and a small landing zone. I've done this many times, stand in the middle and just start zipping them down. They stick in the ground like spears. The ground dudes just yank them out and off to the chipper. This works well with australian pines also. I know JP doesn't have either of those species in his neck of the woods.

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

Nope, just Austrian pines

The method works well on Acer Saccharinuminuminum