thosants versus hundredth

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tony marks

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some o yall know i was taking one saws chain to .030 depth.. i dont have a gauge for this so i reasoned id take the thickness of the.025 gauge metal out..
big mistake..according to madsens [i think] a dime should fit between a strait piece of metal ,laid tooth to tooth.. for.025setting..
so i actually took my rakers to probably .040-.050 or more..
in any case i adjusted the chain last night,, so theres a tad of light from a flash lite ,showing between the dime and
and the strait piece of metal laid accross 2 cutters..ill see how it works,, but it sure is a lot higher rake than i had changed to..
this for those on here, who may be at my level of knowledge. poor things:)
if i confused u ,dont worry ,i have trouble putting my thots in wd form..:)
 
That might end up being really grabby, with such low rackers. I'd test it out on some soft wood first to see what happens. If you start right off with oak or hickory, etc. it may just bog down the engine unless you actually lift up on the grips.
 
yea bob ,my normal setting is .020..
.. this is an modified saw , and the builder said it really liked .030 and 8 pin sprocket.. a few of arborsite members have affirmed they saw it perform well wiith that setup..im just trying to get there recommended settings right..i missed miserably in my first attempt.. think im closer now..
still the proof is in the pudding so ill adjust as needed in my judgement..
guess my post was directed at those who missjudge just how little a 5 or 10 thosanth adjustment is.. just common sense i guess..i usually have it but not this time.. hope i got it closer now..at least it as uniform as i can get it..
i use to have lots of wood to test with but no longer have land an woods etc..
 
hey mark i hope not.. almost got koed in the first..:) besides im dealin with the local trailer pk bully..i came strait attim with lets take it dn in my fence, where we dont get locked up..so far he hasnt showed up..thank goodness .. that was gonna be hard,, as he looks big an such..
but u cant judge a book by its cover..
still it would have been harder,, if i let him run over me.. gotta sleep at nite..
dont know what im gonna do when i just plain, aint able to handle these types..
 
Tony, what's the deal with this bully? Was this the guy you mentioned before that's hooked on dope and stealing things from you?
 
no this aint the same bunch.. thank god my sister didnt know they were there, when she was here.. this is u standard bully who uses his muscles to intimidate people..every day ,i see him working out with his weights.. this shows me hes weak inside .. as its been 3 days since i told him to come dn.. strong dont mean he can fight ..
ill contain him until i can get him into an oxygen deficit then ill start landing some shots to discourage him..its my bet hes got dog in him..
even among these type .. a couple of hard shots to the temple an head .. will break their will ,most o the time.. if not
ill just work hard as i can ,an try to out work him..
im not an natural fighter,ive had to learn all i know. but except for my arthritus , i carry some real smack in the left hook an im getting the right back..most guys thro one punch .. except for an set up left jab ,im coming with 3-4..
its the one he dont see that does the damage..
a good example was mike tyson .. cus had him trained to always thro at least three or more.. then he got big headed an started depending on just single hard punches..plus he was not game to the core as holifield was..
 
well now ,that shoots the dime down, i guess.. im gonna go back into my stash of info on the subject and see whether it was madsens or oregon info..ill email them .. thats too much of an error.,to be putting out as general info.. thanks ray..this is how people make wrong judgements,,about equipment an such ,due to operator error.
thanks, also for the heads up on the gauge..
guess i approached this problem all wrong .. thats the value of this forum.
like i said thanks..
ps i may have to go to another chain ,but i got plenty of them..
 
Last edited:
The feeler guage and straight edge is pretty slow..The one in ray bensons previous post is the easiest for most people as there is no clumsy hand side. If you are making a chain for the get together at Gypo's, Tony, those rakers better be even, not all horses and goats!
 
Tony, Most credit cards are .030. Using 'em for feeler gauges is probably a lot smarter than buying stuff with them.:D
 
Bully whoopin 101

Tony,
Take out his knee cap from the inside with your foot. Bullies that can't stand can't fight. Then taking your time, stomp his @ss into a greasy mudhole. Worked for me in the past. Don't like to fight, but really don't like to lose.
Van
 
Originally posted by tony marks
then he got big headed an started depending on just single hard punches..plus he was not game to the core as holifield was..
Click to expand...

That pretty much says it all. Tony if this guy's lifting for strength, (heavy weights/few reps) he'll run out of fight pretty quick if it comes to that. Let him take 3 or 4 swings and he'll be tired then you go to work. Good luck with the clown and the depth gauges.
 
thats about the way i gottem figured..
the idea is to let him work hard an frustrate him as much as possible,,although i aint gonna count on just 3-4 swings..just what ever he brings
,,ill try an deal with it.. be nice if we ended up friends.. but that dont seem to be the way things go these days .. seems like it use to tho..these guys watch too much tv an such..besides im about to decide [an hope ] he aint gonna show up..i wouldnt mind a last touch of glory ,or even to go out that way.. but it dont have to be today..uhuh
stumper ,,ive got a gap gauge now ill check my cards an see .. be my luck to pick one that they decided to make at .040..:) ...in any case i put a new chain opn today .. ill try to mess thisun up less..
 
Tony, I'd like to remind you that the ramped depth guide gauges like what Husky and Carlton market are the best thing going.  The ones that lay across more than one cutter give you an average at best and depending where on the bar you are (if not the same place every time) you run the risk of yet an additional reason to have different results from cutter to cutter.  The ramped ones use the individual cutter as the standard for itself so it matters very much less if they're all the same length or not.  Also, they provide for a progressively deeper setting as the cutter recedes/narrows which goes a great deal of the way toward maintaining a consistent amount of material removed per cutter per distance traveled.

If you feel the need to use the averaging gauges, the ones that drop in the middle are better than the ones that drop on the end, in my opinion.

Glen
 
I use the Husky '3/8" DEPTH GAUGE' for 73L{P,G} chain.  The result is certainly different than for the Oregon chain but I like it.  Just place the gauge against the rear of the depth guide on the cutter and file towards the outside of the tooth until the file quits biting.  It has no effect for the first couple of touch-ups but I feel new RS (and RM) chain are too grabby anyway.

If you want the averaging gauge I'd say get one from Oregon at whatever depth you like.  I keep one in the bag for showing how and touching up folks' chain when they have "safety" chain with bumper tie straps.

Glen
 

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