John Paul Sanborn
Above average climber
KentuckySawyer said:
I'll do it that way on the lowe half w/o gaffs where thay would get in my way. Limbwalk to set the line, rig the limb out, footlock up the the next one...
Throwballing removals
- Thread starter xtremetrees
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I'll do it that way on the lowe half w/o gaffs where thay would get in my way. Limbwalk to set the line, rig the limb out, footlock up the the next one...
Sirpouralot
ArboristSite Lurker
I think as I have gotten older, I do more dropping of trees than I used too. Two reasons for this.
1 Over the years your ability to put a tree on the ground in one shot safely, improves. You learn lot's of little tricks. You learn what will slow hinge and what woods won't slow hinge. You learn how to redirect a tree as it is coming over with both your notch (or notches) and your back cut. In short your ability to discern the risks involved is greatly enhanced through years of experience.
2 It's not as easy to just throw your gear on and run up the tree and strip it out as it was when I was younger. When I was younger, it was so effort less to just run up a tree that I didn't take much time to evaluate all my options.
Today my son is my main climber and there are times when I have elected to put a rope up into a tree and tie a come-along to another tree. By the time I get everything rigged sometimes, I know he could have had the thing on the ground already.
Still there is that satisfaction of laying the whole tree down safely in one shot.
Today a very high percentage of the removals we are doing is with a crane. Even when we can flop the whole tree with just a notch and no rope, we still elect to take the time to tie it off with the crane and feed the whole tree butt first into the chipper, as it saves all the raking up when these dead ash trees come crashing down. Emerald ash borer has killed more than 11 million trees in our work area.
1 Over the years your ability to put a tree on the ground in one shot safely, improves. You learn lot's of little tricks. You learn what will slow hinge and what woods won't slow hinge. You learn how to redirect a tree as it is coming over with both your notch (or notches) and your back cut. In short your ability to discern the risks involved is greatly enhanced through years of experience.
2 It's not as easy to just throw your gear on and run up the tree and strip it out as it was when I was younger. When I was younger, it was so effort less to just run up a tree that I didn't take much time to evaluate all my options.
Today my son is my main climber and there are times when I have elected to put a rope up into a tree and tie a come-along to another tree. By the time I get everything rigged sometimes, I know he could have had the thing on the ground already.
Still there is that satisfaction of laying the whole tree down safely in one shot. Today a very high percentage of the removals we are doing is with a crane. Even when we can flop the whole tree with just a notch and no rope, we still elect to take the time to tie it off with the crane and feed the whole tree butt first into the chipper, as it saves all the raking up when these dead ash trees come crashing down. Emerald ash borer has killed more than 11 million trees in our work area.
Manco
ArboristSite Operative
On a tree with long lower limbs, just set the pull line as high as you want in a good crotch, and tie it off above the notch area with a running bowline around the trunk. You'll have the point of attachment higher(more leverage), and you don't have to flip the rope around the lower limbs to tie your running bowline or throw your throwball back through to have a high tie-in point. You have to have a long rope as you will use up 40 to 60 feet using this idea.
Jim1NZ
ArboristSite Guru
KentuckySawyer said:
Nice, same here
Il use a throwball for everything over about 12-15m.
Tree Machine
Addicted to ArboristSite
I enjoy flopping a tree whan I can, though like beowulf, the quarters are usually too tight.
However, when I do I'll always set a line in the tree, route the line in the direction of the fell and anchor to something immovable. There I'll sink a big sling and attach a Petzl ProTraxion and bring the rope back to the base of the tree. The ProTraxion is a confidence giver as it's a pully with a cam, so a one-way pully. Tension the rope, it locks down and stays at that tension. When you pull the tree over, it's from the base of the tree, behind the tree.
The tree has to be pretty small, or leaning the direction its going to go to not tagline the thing. It's too easy to set a rope from the ground with a throwline for me not to take that precaution.
However, when I do I'll always set a line in the tree, route the line in the direction of the fell and anchor to something immovable. There I'll sink a big sling and attach a Petzl ProTraxion and bring the rope back to the base of the tree. The ProTraxion is a confidence giver as it's a pully with a cam, so a one-way pully. Tension the rope, it locks down and stays at that tension. When you pull the tree over, it's from the base of the tree, behind the tree.
The tree has to be pretty small, or leaning the direction its going to go to not tagline the thing. It's too easy to set a rope from the ground with a throwline for me not to take that precaution.
xtremetrees
Addicted to ArboristSite
I enjoy climbing. Why set a throwball if the trees comming down. I can see having to rope more than once a lower limb for 4 limbs roping out cut a few that will go and its firewood down the rest of it. The idea of setting a rope to work off of is new to me. i mostly free climb to the first limb then start roping, if its more than say 5 or 6 limbs to rope, maybe I shiould throwball it.
So, in conclusion maybe I should throwball any tree that will take me longer than 1 hr 15 mins.
So, in conclusion maybe I should throwball any tree that will take me longer than 1 hr 15 mins.
Jim1NZ
ArboristSite Guru
Ha think il give the free climbing a miss.
If the tree is branching from low enough to easily rope throw and the branches are small enough to climb up and over then it probably isn't very big.
If for some reason it is, then i would climb it branch to branch. How ever if it is able to be felled from the ground and it needs pulling aid then i will set it with a throwball. Its way faster and its good practice:biggrinbounce2:
If the tree is branching from low enough to easily rope throw and the branches are small enough to climb up and over then it probably isn't very big.
If for some reason it is, then i would climb it branch to branch. How ever if it is able to be felled from the ground and it needs pulling aid then i will set it with a throwball. Its way faster and its good practice:biggrinbounce2:
lync
ArboristSite Operative
A high tie in is the only way to work, evenon a removal (exception a straight pine or spruce). how else are you going to get out on big leaders to rig them, you need that support from above, to make lateral movement possible. Work smarter not harder.
Corey
Corey
