To slab, or not to slab - concrete that is

[cnice_37]

So I'm building a shed. I posted a few Q's in the OT forum but it's quiet over there unless you want to play silly games.

It will be made of wood. Maybe one day I'll burn it - there, it's firewood forum appropriate now.

The shed will be just under 300 sq ft (setback requirements) with a main shed at 12'x15' and a lean-to at 8'x15' for the tractor. Originally, this was going to have "2 wings" with another lean-to for a proper wood shed, but the size and setbacks make the woodshed a second building to happen ????

I have no experience with concrete aside from pouring a sonotube here and there. My plans were for no slab, 2x10 floor 16" oc for the main shed, and an earth floor for the lean-to (possibly followed up by a paver floor seeing as though I've got over 100 of those lying around.) I've priced it out, and think the flooring/ lumber alone and I'm at $600 (all PT.) That's no blocks, skids yet either so even more.

So... what size slab would you recommend pouring (full length of course, 20'x'15') ? Thickness that is.
Is this a hire it out job considering I'm relatively clueless about this?
What might this run me? I can handle digging/ levelling/ tamping.
I'm in Mass, so we have frost heave... does this also require a proper footing? Yeah I know, ask the building inspector...

And finally, is it worth it?

Thanks a lot for any insight.

-Craig

 

[Mac88]

Have you considered asphalt?

 

[cnice_37]

Have you considered asphalt?

Nope... whatcha thinking?

 

[Mac88]

Nope... whatcha thinking?

Concrete can get pretty expensive, and you'd probably have to frame it up and put road mesh in it.
Depending on what you have built already, asphalt might be a lot cheaper to put down. Probably more
forgiving with the frost issue. You'd have to price it out. Just a thought.

 

[Fifelaker]

In Mi up north where I live you need 24"X12" footings and at least a 4" pad. I always do mono pours footings and slab in one pour. I also use fibermesh insteag of wire.If you do it yourself ask the driver for a wet slump it will give you a bit more time fo finnish before it sets up.

 

[Fifelaker]

I just came up with 6.3 yards of crete around here it is $78 per yard so for about $500 you have a pad.

 

[turnkey4099]

Your mention of "set back requirment" says that you are subject to zoning regulations and that implies having to build to code.

Asking hee is the not the place.

Trot down to your ?friendly? courthouse and ask at the office in charge of enforcing whatever code requirments exist. NOthing more fun the building a nice looking shed and then being forced to tear it down because you used 3 nails instead of 4 someplace.

Harry K

 

[Whitespider]

Pouring a building foundation and floor might be biting off too big a chunk if you don’t have much experience. Not sayin’ you can’t do it, but they do call it a “foundation” for a reason… if it ain’t right, nothin’ built on it will be right. Just a little food for thought.

I also live in frost country, and the best advice I can give you is don’t try and cut corners with the concrete. On the footings, go 6-12 inches deeper than everyone tells you, and 1 inch thicker on the floor. Yeah, you’ll need to reinforce it, rod in the footings, mesh in the floor. You’ll probably get plenty of suggestions like old fence wire (don’t do it)… besides, in the scheme of things the reinforcement is cheap.

Concrete floors are nice in sheds, shops and whatnot, but even in a heated building it’s hard to keep your feet warm if you’re gonna’ spend much time in it. A friend of mine built a workshop/shed for his snowmobiles and OPE using oak bridge planking for the floor… at mid-winter that’s the warmest unheated building I’ve ever been in. It’s surprising how much longer you can “stay out” if your feet stay warm. “Course, the drawback is cleanup, it don’t sweep up as easily, but oil spills just soak in. Actually, I’m pretty sure he “oils” the planks every now and then, kind’a like “oiling” the planks of a hay wagon.

 

[savageactor7]

You could just gravel it until you finally decide exactly what you want to do.

 

[AIM]

If your codes allow just pour a slab right on the ground. (dig out the top few inches of topsoil though)
I've poured a bunch of shed floors over the years for customers and it works just fine. No footers, no stone base. Pour the crete 6" thick with 3/8" rebar vs mesh and let the shed float so to speak.
My 10 X 14 shed is many years old and if it's moved at all you can't tell.
I know guys that have poured slabs right over the grass and it seems to work OK. Just mow and form. I myself like the idea of getting the softer topsoil out though.
Whatever you do though just try not to overthink it. It's a SHED..

Oh and by the way.. I HIGHLY recommend concrete.

 

[Whitespider]

Wow, that wouldn’t work ‘round here Aim , I’ve seen 12 inch thick slabs poured without footings for round corn cribs… and I’ve seen the frost heave an empty crib enough to topple it.

 

[Fedaburger]

Can you build it like a pole barn? They go up before concrete except for the poles of course. You can get your shed built pretty much by yourself it's just a shed. A good tamped graded gravel bed will do just fine. And if you want concrete you can have it poured later.

 

[lmbrman]

soil type may dictate the foundation- on sandy ground around us, 4-6" slab is fairly common and rarely an issue with frost

few miles away you might run into heavier ground and clay, and then you might need a different plan

what you got for soils at the site?

 

[jcappe]

Get your area level and free of grass and pour a pad. I poured a 16x36 pad eight years ago and a 10x6 pad that my OWB sits on 5 years ago and haven't had any problems with either one. I used wire mesh gates and poured 4-5 inches thick. If you have any buddies that are familiar with pouring concrete offer them a few beers and see if they'll help you. It is a decent sized pad to do by yourself.
Good Luck.

 

[Fedaburger]

Does anyone know the three guarantee's of concrete????

 

[Fedaburger]

A shed doesnt really need concrete and a shed most certainly does not need a 24" by 12" footing of concrete. (overkill) just a tool shed not a three car two story garage.

 

[cnice_37]

We have rocky/ sandy soil where I am at. The local building inspector was very laid back with my plans, as they are mostly overkill. Pretty sure I could pour a slab with no footings and he'd sign off.

My "buddies" are the modern day men - meaning they do nothing on the weekends aside from cutting the lawn. I find myself getting older and wanting to learn/ do everything and these guys just hire everything out. In a nutshell, I'd have to sub it out to feel comfortable with a relatively large pour for a newbie.

Thanks for the replies. If you guys lived closer, I'd have a concrete GTG.... but wooden floor for now on blocks.

 

[husqvarnaguy]

See if anyone you know has a vibrating screed. We us a 12ft one with a weed eater motor on it. It will save alot of work and back ache. Level the spot out good and check your forms with a speed square. Put supports along the outside of the form to keep it from bowing out. I would go with a minimum 4 inch pad. I dont know what you will have on the pad but I dont think you would need it over 6-8 inches. As for reinforcement that depends on what you want. Our local hardware sell 6x16 galvanized hog wire panels. I think that these would work great but it is up to you as far as that. We have poured a couple of pads to park tractors on and did not reinforce them and they seem to be holding up fine.

 

[Steve2910]

I built a wooden floor for the shed we use to store bulk salt. Just grade it out, PT 4x4 joists & PT 2x decking. It's held up nicely even having 20+ tons of salt on it. Material costs are about the same around here, whether using wood or concrete. As long as you use screws & don't countersink too deep, you can always take it apart later & re-use the wood if you decide to switch to concrete.

 

[half]

concrete floor

In a past life I drove a readymix truck. Some of the stories I could tell you about "weekend wallies' as we used to call them doing home jobs and trying to save a few bucks would make you cry.And there are a lot of experts out there, [never done a floor but their mate saw the placers do it and it was a walk in the park]
Ok so you have never done it before. I would talk to your local concrete supplier in person about what you want to do,the best time would be mid afternoon after the pressure is off and let them recommend a good "placer' [the guy that lays concrete].Talk to him about boxing ect and see what you can do to help in the prep work. I would get him to do the pour and that way you have a guarantee and will get a good smooth floor.And the placer will have all the right gear, like power floats bull floats contacts to get the right additives ect.[We had 65 different mixes, concrete is not just a hard surface] nothing worse than trying to clean a rough floor.

If it is a disaster, because you cut corners ,you will be looking at it for a long time