Torture testing injecta-sharp & another good day in the woods

[mtngun]

I'm gradually regrinding the lo-pro injecta-sharp to 10 degrees, in 5 degree increments. This was the first time it had been sharpened, so it got ground to 25 degrees. Reluctant to shorten the cutters, I set the grinder so that only outer half of the cutter was getting ground, while the inner half is still dull. You can kinda see that in this pic.

The plan was to run the injecta-sharp all day or until it stopped cutting decently, just to see how long it would hold up. From time to time I did a mini-speed test, like this. I marked out 24" on the log, and simply timed the cut over that 24" without pausing to insert wedges, etc.. This is an easy test that anyone can do in the field. If you don't have a stop watch, you could just count "1000, 1001, 1002, etc." It would be interesting to see how your cutting speeds compare to mine with different saws and different woods.

Here are the speeds for injecta-sharp with the half sharpened/half dull 25 degree top plate, all in doug fir:

slab #1, 15" - 16" width including bark, 0.4 inch/sec.

slab #6, 15" - 16" width including bark, 0.3 inch/sec (slowing as it dulls)

slab #10, 10 1/4" cant, 0.57 inch/sec

By slab #10, it felt like it was cutting slower, and the RPM's were only 7500 - 8000 most of the time. Also, the chain tension was getting a little sloppy.

I decided to take the injecta-sharp off and install a freshly sharpened WP lo-pro ripping chain. Here's how it cut on the same cant:

slab #11, 10 1/4" cant, 0.85" inch/sec.

Today's conclusions about lo-pro injecta-sharp: It stayed reasonably sharp for 6 - 8 passes, about the same as standard 3/8 ripping chain. The chain did not need to be tightened for the first 10 passes, though it would have needed tightening had I left it on for additional passes. So ...... the injecta-sharp didn't work miracles, but it did "OK."

The day started with this log, left over from my previous trip to the woods.

Then I moved to another doug fir blowdown about 100 yards away. Only 16", but straight and not too many limbs by local standards. Note the position of the stump.

 

[mtngun]

The tree limbed, bucked, and set up for the first pass. Once again, note the position of the stump. What happened ?

About this time, the bar's sprocket nose started smoking -- A LOT. The aux oil was boiling and burning as it hit the sprocket. Hmmmmm....... something isn't right ?

When I originally converted the Alaskan to the bolt-on bar mounting, I placed a 1/4" lock washer between the bar and the Alaskan. You can't bolt the bar directly to the Alaskan, because that would pinch the sprocket bearing.

Well, somewhere along the way, that 1/4" lock washer had been replaced with a 1/4" flat washer. Apparently, the larger diameter of the flat washer was pinching the sprocket bearing and generating a lot of heat.

I switched back to the lock washer, and the smoke went away, though the aux oil never stopped boiling. I suspect that even with the lock washer, the sprocket bearing is still getting pinched a little.

The next log got the mini-mill treatment, and made into a 10" cant.

Not a bad cant. Then the alaskan was used to turn the cant into 2x10's.

Since last time, I'd lengthened the unistrut guide rail about 6", deburred the top of the rail with a file, and added this attachment point.

 

[mtngun]

The next log also got the mini-mill treatment, this time becoming an 8" cant.

Even though my non-adjustable unistrut rails are wider than the 8" cant, it still works because it is supported by the cross pieces, which are flush with the bottom of the rails. The cross pieces also help to reduce twisting.

The last and smallest log got mini-miled into an 8x8 post. The mini-mill had been working great up 'till then, but ....... on the first pass, the screws attaching the guide board to the log popped out and let the guide board twist. That resulted in a very crooked cut. Since the first cut edge is used as a guide for the 2nd and 3rd cut edges, the 2nd and 3rd edges ended up being crooked, too. I did't take any pictures of the 8x8 because it was embarrassing.

Also, my mini-mill saw, the 0ly 980, became hard to start as the day went on, and when it did start, it was cutting out. I set it aside and finished the 8x8 with the Efco CS62.

About that time it started to rain, so I called it a day. Ended up with 16 slabs and boards, plus the embarrassing 8x8 post.

What went right today:

-- 066 BB continued to run well

-- adhesive backed UHMV guide rails "worked a treat", as the Aussies say.

-- modded unistrut is working satisfactorily now

-- injecta-sharp lo-pro did fair -- no chains broke, it didn't dull any faster than 3/8, and it didn't stretch more than 3/8

-- mini-mill was handy for making cants, providing I could get the log off the ground.

What needs to improve

-- more secure attachment system for mini-mill guide board

-- figure out the 0ly 980's issues

 

[DRB]

Looks like a fun day of CSMing.

Do you like your unistrut rails compared to your old board? They look heavy to me.

Thanks for posting.

 

[mtngun]

Do you like your unistrut rails compared to your old board?

"Like" is not the right word. I'm "OK" with the unistrut.

Yes, it is heavy, and that's why I can't find it in my heart to "like" it. Surprisingly twisty, too. But -- the unistrut should last forever, unlike the old 2x12 guide board, that warped and split.

Boards milled with unistrut are straighter than the boards I milled with the 2x12.

UHMW sliders on the Alaskan are a must for the metal guide rail, though.

 

[BobL]

Thanks for posting the pics and details about the injecta sharp.

I used to convert my cross cut chain using your method but these days I just convert it all in one go.

About this time, the bar's sprocket nose started smoking -- A LOT. The aux oil was boiling and burning as it hit the sprocket. Hmmmmm....... something isn't right ?

When I originally converted the Alaskan to the bolt-on bar mounting, I placed a 1/4" lock washer between the bar and the Alaskan. You can't bolt the bar directly to the Alaskan, because that would pinch the sprocket bearing.

Well, somewhere along the way, that 1/4" lock washer had been replaced with a 1/4" flat washer. Apparently, the larger diameter of the flat washer was pinching the sprocket bearing and generating a lot of heat.

I switched back to the lock washer, and the smoke went away, though the aux oil never stopped boiling. I suspect that even with the lock washer, the sprocket bearing is still getting pinched a little.

Aux oil boiling is not good as it's properties at those temps would also be less protective.

I know your set up uses a bar bolt directly to the upper (ex)clamp, but precisely because of this problem I've always kept my nose clamps. I insert a close fitting bolt thru a hole in my noses and do the nuts up tight enough to stop rattling, and then I clamp to the bolts, that way the clamping pressure is onto the bolts and not the nose.

 

[BobL]

"Like" is not the right word. I'm "OK" with the unistrut.

Yes, it is heavy, and that's why I can't find it in my heart to "like" it. Surprisingly twisty, too.

Yeah I agree - but heavy and twisty - but that also means the twist can be removed, once more rigid structure like a ladder is twisted it is very hard to remove the twist.

I notice you seem to have welded the cross pieces onto the unistrut, how do you then tackle different length logs?

 

[luvsaws]

Great threadopcorn:

 

[mtngun]

I notice you seem to have welded the cross pieces onto the unistrut, how do you then tackle different length logs?

My pickup truck will haul a 12 foot board (barely), so I cut everything 12 foot. Setup time is the same whether the log is 4 feet long or 20 feet long, so it makes sense to cut to the maximum practical length.

I will be building a barn/woodshed with this lumber, and I'm trying to design the barn to use 12 foot boards as much as possible. Some of the twelves will get cut down to eights, but the leftover pieces will likely get used for bracing, etc., so it's not as wasteful as it seems.

It would be nice to have a few 16's and 20's, but that would require a trailer, and it's a royal pain to take a trailer to the places where I cut wood.

Thanks for the explanation of how you clamp the bar nose.

I like the bolt-on bar system because you can swap chains without messing with bar clamps. But, the pinched nose sprocket is a concern.

I'm thinking about switching over to a stud, rather than a bolt, on the nose. Then use a locknut to secure the bar to the stud. You wouldn't have to worry about the locknut rattling loose, so it wouldn't have to be very tight, merely snug enough to take up the slack.

BobL, have you landed in the PNW yet ? I hope you brought a raincoat.

 

[DRB]

Here is how I have my mill mounted at the tip. I don't even tighten it fully on the bearing the bolt actually wears. I use this on three different bars with no tip failures yet.

 

[jnl502]

Great threadopcorn:

:agree2::yourock:
treads like this one make me want to get my stuff together and go mill tommorow buy I always come to my senses between bedtime and the alarm clock going off. it stil looks fun just i already have quite a bit of hickery and popular in the barn that has been drying for over 2 years now that i need to do something with before i cut the oak i cut this past winter sorry for the highjack this is your thead. great job!
jnl

 

[BobL]

BobL, have you landed in the PNW yet ? I hope you brought a raincoat.

Yeah we're here. For the next couple of days we're just doing some tourist - like "riding the mighty ducks" and some museums around downtown Seattle. I've done most of these before but thought SWMBO would like em and she has so far. I also have a cousin here I'm catching up with.

 

[billstuewe]

I know your set up uses a bar bolt directly to the upper (ex)clamp, but precisely because of this problem I've always kept my nose clamps. I insert a close fitting bolt thru a hole in my noses and do the nuts up tight enough to stop rattling, and then I clamp to the bolts, that way the clamping pressure is onto the bolts and not the nose.

Can you clarify how yhou do this with a Picture?

When are you coming to Texas?
My bar oil was boiling today also but it was still in the jug--Temp was already over 100° on my pirch thermometer today and it is just June 1.

 

[BobL]

Can you clarify how yhou do this with a Picture?

Nose clamp arrangement #4 in the CS sticky post #25

When are you coming to Texas?

I just realized that coming from Australia, texas is on the way to puerto rico cos that's one place I could be going next year!

My bar oil was boiling today also but it was still in the jug--Temp was already over 100° on my pirch thermometer today and it is just June 1.

Could be useful if it's early enough in the day, bung a few rashers o bacon and a couple of eggs on that bar, excess sawdust does make it a bit chewy though ;-)

 

[BobL]

Can you clarify how yhou do this with a Picture?

Nose clamp arrangement #4 in the CS sticky post #25

When are you coming to Texas?

I just realized that coming from Australia, texas is on the way to puerto rico cos that's one place I could be going next year!

Can I fly to Austin and take a hire car to Georgetown from there?
Could work.

My bar oil was boiling today also but it was still in the jug--Temp was already over 100° on my pirch thermometer today and it is just June 1.

Could be useful if it's early enough in the day, bung a few rashers o bacon and a couple of eggs on that bar, excess sawdust does make it a bit chewy though ;-)

 

[billstuewe]

"I just realized that coming from Australia, texas is on the way to puerto rico cos that's one place I could be going next year!

Can I fly to Austin and take a hire car to Georgetown from there?
Could work.[/QUOTE]"

Yes. The Austin airport is 30 minutes from me. I could also pick you up at the airport and you could stay in the guest room if you needed a place to stay. If you can stay long enough, we might even be able to teach you how to say "Howdy" with a bit of Texas drawl

"Could be useful if it's early enough in the day, bung a few rashers o bacon and a couple of eggs on that bar, excess sawdust does make it a bit chewy though ;-)[/QUOTE]"

When I tried this I did not like the Stihl oily flavor

 

[gemniii]

My pickup truck will haul a 12 foot board (barely), so I cut everything 12 foot. <snip>

It would be nice to have a few 16's and 20's, but that would require a trailer, and it's a royal pain to take a trailer to the places where I cut wood.
<snip>

Obviously you've got the skills. You've got the trees.
Get your act together and build a rack like plumbers etc. have, so you can slide lumber over the top of your truck. I'm sure you've thought about it.

You'll love having a few 20's when you need them, versus "building them" from 12's.

Great pics and love your timing stats.

Also - I'd been looking into getting Al unistruts, before I found a couple of steel ones for free, They are out there but $$$.

 

[mtngun]

build a rack like plumbers etc. have, so you can slide lumber over the top of your truck. I'm sure you've thought about it.

Yes, I have thought about it, and maybe one of these years I'll get around to doing it. You know how that goes.

Also - I'd been looking into getting Al unistruts, before I found a couple of steel ones for free, They are out there but $$$.

Ya, if money were no object ..... ....... I'd use aluminum rectangular tubing, welded up similar to my unistrut rail.