Tuning a ported 066 RL

[blsnelling]

I ported my 066 RL this week, modded the muffler today, and set about tuning the carb. I had not had a bar and chain on this saw since I totaly rebuild it, so the H on the carb had not been dialed in.

It turns out the RL is not going to be the cup of tea I'm used to. The coil is rev limited at about 13,100. The RL starts flickering about 11K and then goes out somewhere above that, but before 13K. Above 13,100, the tach reading falls and begins reading erratically. I cannot tune the saw to run and faster, thus preventing me from finding where the saw wants to run. The problem is that my ported cylinder is still way rich at 13K. Sure, I could tune it with timed cuts in the wood, but then I'd have no way of checking my tuning by ear or with a tach. I normally tune my saws by timed cuts and note the RPM so that I can duplicate it whenever. I left it tuned right up to the rev limiter, but not any higher, so as to not get it too lean.

What would be the best way to proceed with this saw? Should I replace the coil with a non-limited one? But then I begin to wonder about how everyone says how strong the RLs are and if that's in part to a different timing curve that might not be the same in a non-limited coil. Just wondering here. Plus, I like the idea of keeping the RL functional.

Sorry about the rambling. Just thinking "out loud".

 

[Lakeside53]

Now you see what the Husky guys are up against.

If you don't trust the LED (DON'T), you need to tune it just like the 064 manual says... start 2 turns out, wind in H until you get to 12,000, then 1/2 turn more... Scary - yep...

Alternatively, timed cuts in wood, then tune a tad richer.

..or, put on the later 064/066 coil... or an 0000 400 1300 and set it to about 13k and/or by ear.

 

[blsnelling]

So the 0000 400 1300 is not limited?

 

[blsnelling]

I've read a lot of posts about trying to tune a saw with a rev limited coil, especially the 7900 and 3120. Now I feel their pain. If this was a stock saw, it'd be a lot easier. I can't go back factory settings with a ported cylinder like this. It's either going to have to be timed cuts and watch the plug from then on, or a later coil that's not limited. I can't be tuning my saw cutting cookies with a stop watch every time I use it

Is there any difference in the timing advance curves on the later coil and the old RL coil? In other words, any reason the old coil might give better performance?

 

[Lakeside53]

So the 0000 400 1300 is not limited?

Nope, but it's also not smart (timing curves, retarded starting etc) and kicks like a mule in a timing advanced saw like the 066RL/64. Use the later 066 coil.... 1122 400 1311 or... learn how to tune an RL - thousands and thousands work fine, and so do all the Husky's with the same problem.


RL: Stick in in the wood rich. If it won't smooth out, lean it. If it's way removed from the burble, richen it. Easy... and you don't have to do it every time you pick up the saw - just stay slightly rich.

 

[blsnelling]

I just took a look at my 066 and 660 IPLs. They both call for a 1122 400 1314. Is there a reason you recomended the 0000 400 1300 instead?

 

[Lakeside53]

Nope... just that it will work, and read back on my prior post or two...

Sure, if you want to use a brand new coil, use the -14

Stihl has these coils all advanced as far is is "production safe"; all they changed is how quickly they get there and at what RPM.


Now you know why Stihl ditched this rev limiting BS on all but the 088 many years ago... Hopefully, they stay that way.

 

[blsnelling]

So, to summarized. Both the 1122 400 1314 and the 0000 400 1300 are non-limited coils. Both will have the same amount of timing advance in the cut. But the 1122 400 1314 is a "smart" coil that, among other things, retards timing to ease startup.

 

[Lakeside53]

Close enough.. but the -14 probably advances a tad more over the 1300 because it is "smart"... need to use timing light to be sure. The oldest non-limiting coil for non-poly flywheels is the 1311

 

[stihl 440]

066rl

Nope, but it's also not smart (timing curves, retarded starting etc) and kicks like a mule in a timing advanced saw like the 066RL/64. Use the later 066 coil.... 1122 400 1311 or... learn how to tune an RL - thousands and thousands work fine, and so do all the Husky's with the same problem.


RL: Stick in in the wood rich. If it won't smooth out, lean it. If it's way removed from the burble, richen it. Easy... and you don't have to do it every time you pick up the saw - just stay slightly rich.

Funny, this is exactly what my dealer told me. He has converted over 2 RL saws to the non-limited coil. He says they are a SOB to start and kick like a mule when they fire, but they cut like an SOB after.:greenchainsaw:

 

[blsnelling]

...or... learn how to tune an RL - thousands and thousands work fine, and so do all the Husky's with the same problem.


RL: Stick in in the wood rich. If it won't smooth out, lean it. If it's way removed from the burble, richen it. Easy... and you don't have to do it every time you pick up the saw - just stay slightly rich.

Tuning the RL coil per factory procedure is not the problem. And yes, the coil does work. The problem is that I'm running a modified cylinder that turns RPMs in excess of factory specs. Typically, I would start by finding where the saw nearly quits 4-stroking and do timed cuts from there to fine tune. I note the RPM that the saw performs best at and use that as a reference for future tuning. I can't do that with this coil. Also, I can't tell by ear if the tuning is even close. I'll simply be banging against the rev limiter. I also can't do a quick check with a tach to make sure I'm close. Basically, there's no way to check your tune other than redoing the timed cuts, unless you want to go by plug color.

 

[Lakeside53]

So, stick it in the wood. It's not that hard... or that critical... just stay on the rich side.

 

[blsnelling]

Thanks for the info Andy. I figure the more I pick your brain, the more we all learn

 

[Jacob J.]

Andy- if he has the 1122 400 1207 CDIC coil on his Red Light saw, won't he have to change the flywheel to switch over to one of the non rev-limited coils? I haven't worked on one of those for a long time but I seem to remember the CDIC flywheel not working straight away with either of the non-limited coils.

 

[Lakeside53]

So long as the flywheel (-1203?) has two key slots (most of the RL did) , just use the "other" slot. If not, then yes, he has to change the flywheel.

 

[blsnelling]

So long as the flywheel (-1203?) has two key slots (most of the RL did) , just use the "other" slot. If not, then yes, he has to change the flywheel.

I'll have to check that out.

 

[Lakeside53]

So.. you change the coil and maybe the flywheel.. and the saw won't run any better then if you figured out the tuning on the old set! :greenchainsaw:

 

[blsnelling]

So.. you change the coil and maybe the flywheel.. and the saw won't run any better then if you figured out the tuning on the old set! :greenchainsaw:

No, but I can be a lot more sure of my tuning with the new coil. And that's worth something with the time and labor I have invested in this jug.

 

[Lakeside53]

I sure wish you were a customer where I work :greenchainsaw:


$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

 

[Lakeside53]

If you have a 2 slot flywheel (-1203), take the coil off your 026/029/036/044 etc, and put it on the 066. Move the FW to the other slot.. Tune the carb, figure you what your settings are, and then put the RL-1307 coil back on.