using a 1/8" wheel in a pinch for sharpening some 3/8 chains

[Philbert]

What about the inverse? My 1/8" wheel just exploded at work and I was halfway through a pile of 3/8"LP chain. Can I use the 3/16" wheel to get a "good enough" cutter profile?

You can always try and get back to us with the results! Again, you will end up with different profiles - 'good enough' might depend upon what you are cutting. Remember that you also have to be able to clear the depth gauges and tie straps with the larger wheel. You may have to change your grinder head tilt angle to fit the wheel in there. Might be easier with worn chain that has more space from previous sharpenings.

Another solution for the 1/8" wheel would be to dress the radius needed for the chain on the wheel like it is 1/4" wide. Only one side of the wheel does any work.

I don't entirely agree that only half the wheel does any work - the wheel profile determines the profile of the side plate cutting edge, which does the heavy work of cutting the wood fibers when cross cutting. But in the situation the OP describes, it might work. That is an interesting idea.

Philbert

 

[bama]

Another solution for the 1/8" wheel would be to dress the radius needed for the chain on the wheel like it is 1/4" wide. Only one side of the wheel does any work. I routinely dress half of the width away on a 3/16 wheel and dress the radius on the wheel for .325 or 3/8 as needed. Dressing half the width away allows the 3-16 wheel to fit into the tooth on a .325 cutter. This also does away with the flex when grinding .325 chain.

I would if I had a wheel dresser. Makes sense, but that will get here with the wheel.

 

[misterfreindly]

grinding-sharping chain

If you see the "left" side of the wheel turning dark, then it is a good time to DRESS the wheel with a diamond tip dresser or something equivalent. The radius of a .125 wheel is about .06075. Eye ball it. Semi-sphrical.
Take two or at most, three cuts to get the chain sharpened without blueing it. In a perfect world, a chain should only need a touch up. Depending on how f...up the previous user did the chains.
Listen to those who brought up the issue of "depth of cut."
And in the end, the cutters should be set at the correct height with relationship to the rakers. Between .025 and .035 ... working chain saws.

I too, came across a grinder at an auction. I feel blessed having that grinder. I use solely a .1675(3/16) wheel and do what needs to be done.
Kicking myself for all the time spent filing chains over the last 35 years.

Note30 degrees vs. 35 degrees cutter top, and angle the grinder wheel at 60 degrees.) This is a good starting point. Adjust according to your needs. THERE ARE OTHER THREADS REGARDING SHARPING CHAINS WITH A GRINDER. THIS IS "YOUR" HOMEWORK.

Best wishes. Misterfriendly

 

[Philbert]

I would if I had a wheel dresser. Makes sense, but that will get here with the wheel.

Dressing the wheel is one of those finer points of chain grinding that is underemphasized and often gets overlooked. It is important to dress the wheel periodically for two reasons:

1) to maintain the profile of the wheel in order to get the desired cutter profiles:

2) to clean the wheel, exposing fresh abrasive, and reducing the risk of burning the cutter edges.

The small (1/2" X 1/2" X 2") silicon carbide dressing blocks that come with the Oregon grinders work well for this. They sell for around $8 (?). For about the same price, you can get one about 6 times the size at a local store (the orange one that sells to farms and also to fleets). Not that you would need one that big

You did not really say if you are new to grinding, or just got a new grinder. I don't want to overload you, but there are dozens of A.S. threads on grinding - narrowing your search to '511A' will bring up a bunch. Here are a few:

Philbert

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/179728.htm

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/192371.htm

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/202969.htm

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/197073.htm

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/187523.htm

 

[bama]

Dressing the wheel is one of those finer points of chain grinding that is underemphasized and often gets overlooked. It is important to dress the wheel periodically for two reasons:

1) to maintain the profile of the wheel in order to get the desired cutter profiles:

2) to clean the wheel, exposing fresh abrasive, and reducing the risk of burning the cutter edges.

The small (1/2" X 1/2" X 2") silicon carbide dressing blocks that come with the Oregon grinders work well for this. They sell for around $8 (?). For about the same price, you can get one about 6 times the size at a local store (the orange one that sells to farms and also to fleets). Not that you would need one that big

You did not really say if you are new to grinding, or just got a new grinder. I don't want to overload you, but there are dozens of A.S. threads on grinding - narrowing your search to '511A' will bring up a bunch. Here are a few:

Philbert

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/179728.htm

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/192371.htm

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/202969.htm

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/197073.htm

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/187523.htm

I have ground a few practice chains. I have the chart which suggests angles for each brand of chain. I have read the manual for the 511a and also have a cheap harbor freight grinder for the rakers. I know what I would do if I had the right wheel, but was trying to make it until after Christmas before I really got into it. If it wasn't this particular guy, I wouldnt' be doing it. Dad and him go way back and I guess I have known him for 30 years, too. Thanks for the thread links as I am continually looking for pictures to help me. I think I have about 50 chains that I will sharpen of my own from saws I have purchased on eBay and the like, so I will eventually get lots of experience.

I don't feel overloaded, yet. I know what I need to do and hopefully have enough knowledge that I can do it and make it work. My original post was to make sure I could get away with the 1/8" wheel or if it would be a waste of time. I really appreciate all the help from everyone! I can't wait to get at these chains tonight or tomorrow (depends when we get back home from relatives).

 

[bama]

Dressing the wheel is one of those finer points of chain grinding that is underemphasized and often gets overlooked. It is important to dress the wheel periodically for two reasons:

1) to maintain the profile of the wheel in order to get the desired cutter profiles:

2) to clean the wheel, exposing fresh abrasive, and reducing the risk of burning the cutter edges.

The small (1/2" X 1/2" X 2") silicon carbide dressing blocks that come with the Oregon grinders work well for this. They sell for around $8 (?). For about the same price, you can get one about 6 times the size at a local store (the orange one that sells to farms and also to fleets). Not that you would need one that big

You did not really say if you are new to grinding, or just got a new grinder. I don't want to overload you, but there are dozens of A.S. threads on grinding - narrowing your search to '511A' will bring up a bunch. Here are a few:

Philbert

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/179728.htm

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/192371.htm

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/202969.htm

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/197073.htm

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/187523.htm

I am going to see if I can get one of those larger wheel dressers. I never even thought of a hardware store! Thanks, mang!

 

[fearofpavement]

The main thought I have been having while reading this thread is whether the vibration is due to the wheel or the unit? Did you run a the 1/8" wheel on it and it was smooth?

Myself, especially if new to grinding, I would wait for the correct wheel. Do you have some smaller chains you can sharpen with the smaller wheel?

Will the HF grinder wheel work on your new unit?

 

[mountainlake]

Those Oregon instructions where they tell you only to get the wheel low enough so the radius of the wheel is even with the top plate are BS and the biggest reason why some chains won't cut with a grinder. Get that wheel low enough so the side of it for sure hits the face of the tooth, I run mine right down to the top links and my chains CUT good. If your not hand filing the gullet shape doesn't matter, just make sure it HAS positive hook which will come from getting the wheel low enough. I got some chain in here sharpened the Oregon way that wouldn't cut, had a neagative hook on the side plate from not getting the wheel low enough. Look at how a file sharpens, the whole face of the tooth and side plate have a positive hook. Bama, just sharpen 1 chain getting your 1/8 wheel low enough, make sure the rakers aren't to high if you have to grind quite a bit off the teeth. Running a grinder is not rocket science as some seem to think....... Steve

 

[lambs]

I am going to see if I can get one of those larger wheel dressers. I never even thought of a hardware store! Thanks, mang!

You can get a great dressing brick from Bailey's and if my memory is correct, it comes with a little plastic template that gives you various depth gauges, a rule to determine what gauge chain you have, the templates for dressing your grinding wheel, and a cutter tooth length gauge.

 

[Philbert]

Those Oregon instructions where they tell you only to get the wheel low enough so the radius of the wheel is even with the top plate are BS and the biggest reason why some chains won't cut with a grinder. . . . If your not hand filing the gullet shape doesn't matter, just make sure it HAS positive hook which will come from getting the wheel low enough.

Steve, why would it make a difference if someone is sharpening with a round file or a round dressed wheel? The profile of the top plate cutting edge is the same. The profile of the side plate cutting edge is almost identical (except slightly hollow ground due to the shape of the wheel).

Why would the gullet shape matter one way but not the other? It's function is still to remove chips, whether it was formed by a file or grinder.

If you prefer to cut with a deeper hook, or different profile, that's OK. The chains I grind with the method above cut wood. Even the low-kickback ones.

Running a grinder is not rocket science as some seem to think.......

It's not, but it's not like running a chop saw either. A.S. is filled with threads stating that grinders are crap and ruin chains, because those guys have experienced (or heard of) the results of people who don't know how to run them: burned cutters; uneven cutters; blunt edges; wasted chain life; etc. It still takes some skill and practice to get good at it.

Philbert

 

[ncfarmboy]

When you get back to about half the 3/8" cutter length you are close to .325 chain. Sharpen it with your 1/8" wheel. 30* x 60* set rakers cut wood.
Shep

 

[mountainlake]

Steve, why would it make a difference if someone is sharpening with a round file or a round dressed wheel? The profile of the top plate cutting edge is the same. The profile of the side plate cutting edge is almost identical (except slightly hollow ground due to the shape of the wheel).

Why would the gullet shape matter one way but not the other? It's function is still to remove chips, whether it was formed by a file or grinder.

If you prefer to cut with a deeper hook, or different profile, that's OK. The chains I grind with the method above cut wood. Even the low-kickback ones.


The differnce is with a file you leave about 1/5 or 1/4 of the file above the top of the tooth, Oregon wants you to set the dept where the radius on the wheel stops which wuold be like leaving 1/2 of the file above the top plate resulting in very little or no hook on the top plate and side plate. For a wheel to act like a file it would have to come in at about a 20* angle but the rakers are in the way for that. Grinding like I do is more like square filing which everyone seems to like, and I don't ever have a chain the doesn't cut great. I'll keep saying get the wheel low enough, just a light touch unless the chain is rocked, and have the rakers set right and your ground chain will cut. Steve