Wedges

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
farmboy53

farmboy53

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oxst-7MmUfM
Joined
Mar 9, 2011
Messages
50
Location
Central
I use the wedge to keep the bar from getting pinched. Remember if the wind blows the wedge can fall out, as the tree starts forward out it comes only to have the wind bring the tree back with no wedge. If the tree has a back lean and the wedge falls out as described the saw gets pinched, the hinge breaks and major damage may occur. The wedge is no guarantee. If the tree has a back lean and you attempt to use a wedge to lift, while pounding you can break the hinge.
 
Evanrude

Evanrude

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
Dec 12, 2007
Messages
1,640
Location
Gregory, MI
Last tree I cut was a good sized maple in my neighbors yard (26" dbh or so). It was pretty straight but had quite a bit more weight on the opposite side of my falling direction. After beating and wrecking some wedges trying to get it over, I really started liking my hard head wedge! Eventually, I had to cut a notch and put my trusty bottle jack in it to get er over, wedges wouldn't quite do it. Nonetheless, gotta get me some more hard heads!

Most of my wedges are Stihl or Timber Savage (with the grippers). They don't stack worth a damn when there's a lot of weight on them. They kept kicking out of the kerf on me in this tree.
 
bcaarms

bcaarms

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Mar 30, 2013
Messages
461
Location
Alabama
Wedges are one area I have learned to never go to work without. If I'm taking a chainsaw, I take wedges and either an axe or sledge. This site has taught me to use wedges as an indicator of the tree starting to move. Getting a wedge in quickly does more than just protect against pinching. I don't fell in changing winds without a rope in the tree. As for the type of wedge, I usually end up with a few cheap plastic ones because my hard head ones seem to grow legs and walk off.
 
CTYank

CTYank

Peripatetic Sawyer
Joined
Aug 26, 2010
Messages
3,377
Location
SW CT
Couple 5", couple 8" wedges with the lil bumps. Always plenty of sticks that can serve as hammers around these parts.

Wedges = greatest cheap insurance for bucking/felling.
 

MCW

Somebody's talking crap here & it ain't the tree!
Joined
Sep 10, 2008
Messages
13,351
Location
Riverland, South Australia
Matt, where do ya get aluminum wedges? pics? i might would try um. i never had good luck stacking, always slip.......i rather use three or four side by side.

i use red head triple tapers most of the time.

I've spoken with an ex hardwood faller in Australia who always used Stihl alloy wedges. He made a good point about plastics in our hardwoods and I have experienced it myself first hand. Even with the hardheads you can be driving them in but all you are doing is shearing the plastic off and creating a step in the wedge. Alloys don't do this. Apparently Oregon have improved their alloy quality recently and their wedges now rival Stihl who have been the benchmark for years. A supplier of mine has also now sourced a decent alloy wedge forged in Australia which is right up there with the Stihl alloy. Stihl alloys sell for about USD$50 each here whereas the Australian wedges are less than half of that. You can drive alloys hard into big, heavy, leaning hardwoods and every hit drives them in further. Plastics in this type of timber will reach a point and stop. Any extra hitting wrecks them.

I'll get pictures up later of good and bad alloys.
 
slowp
Joined
Feb 6, 2007
Messages
16,180
Location
Warshington
I packed in some aluminum wedges. We were logging out a trail in the wilderness. Aluminum wedges are heavier than you'd think they should be. We were using a cross cut saw so weren't going to saw into them. Oh, and we were bucking up blowdown--not falling.
 

Latest posts

Top