Well, I acquired a 372XP . . . now a few questions.

[merr6267]

All,
I've been a lurker for about a year, and don't post much, but I've been soaking it all in. I bought a brand new 346XP this fall, and I've already cut about 10 cord with it and it's great. I thoroughly love it.

I've been casually looking for a 70cc class saw for a while now too, to compliment the 346, and happened across the beauty below on Friday.

These pictures are right after running a few tanks through it yesterday while gathering some cottonwood:rolleyes2: to feed the OWB with for a week or so, so that's why it's a bit dirty. You can see that there is minimal wear, and that the paint is barely even scuffed off the bar.
I didn't have time to grab my compression tester as I had to leave right from work, but I'm almost positive that it's not an issue, as it popped and ran very well after 2 pulls, and it was also noticeably stiff to pull over without that compression release.

After running it right beside my 346 I have a few observations. It's not as quick for limbing, and is not nearly as happy to rev from a standstill. These are things that I suppose are to be accepted, being 20cc larger, carrying more chain, etc.

Unfortunately I was not able to bury it in any large wood, but on the 10+" stuff I can see where it will really shine.

As for questions, they involve the oiler system. My 346 has a rubber seal or grommet where the bar clamps against the oiler cavity. This saw does not and I noticed a oil leaking all over the chain drive area, rather than being directed down the bar. Now, the bar is getting plenty of oil (It's only 20") as it's flinging it off the end enough that I can see it accumulating on the ground, etc. if I rev it for a second or two. Is this unit supposed to have a seal there? I tried looking at some diagrams this morning, but could not see anything descriptive enough. The seal on the 346 is just an oval shaped grommet that presses against that bar hole. The 372 is just a slot in the metal plate. There is a rubber block behind the plate, but nothing to seal the flow of oil into the bar.

The next question is about the oil adjustment. Does it have detented positions, is it a screw like on a carburetor? I was able to turn the screw, but unlike the 346 it would turn many times without stopping . . . what's the scoop with it?

Here a few more shots of the duo . . .

I forgot to say . . . I paid $400 for the 372, with an extra chain, a hard case, scrench, greaser with spare grease and an extra scabbard. Fair?

Thanks,
Phill

 

[w8ye]

If you take the sheet metal chain plate cover from the 372 you will see that there is a brass tube from the oiler up to the oil slot.

There is supposed to be a rubber disk on the end of the tube to keep oil from going back down around the oiler

 

[merr6267]

If you take the sheet metal chain plate cover from the 372 you will see that there is a brass tube from the oiler up to the oil slot.

There is supposed to be a rubber disk on the end of the tube to keep oil from going back down around the oiler

Yes, this piece is there. I did notice that, and it appears to be functioning.

Thanks,
PM

 

[bowtechmadman]

Great looking combo! I could easily get by with just that combination feeding my OWB. Definately think that was fair price for the 372!

 

[w8ye]

Make sure that the bar fits against the bar plate snuggly-that the cover is clean and smooth where it fits against the bar and that the surface areas are clean and not full of chips.

That the bar rails are cleaned out and the oil holes in the bar are clear of dirt and chips.

 

[rburg]

The oiler should make 4 turns out from fully closed. I think 2 turns out is what is recommended for a 20" bar and 3 turns for a 24" bar.

 

[SawTroll]

The fuel and oil caps tells me this is an older 372xp, but it looks really great. I believe you did well! :msp_smile:

The oiling is adjusted by counting the numbers of turns from closed - 2 1/2 turns out is about suitable for a 20" bar (ime, with Husky Veg-oil), 4 turns is the max described. There are recommendations in the owners manual.

 

[Philip Wheelock]

Nice combo.

 

[Axlerod74]

Try these links:

Parts list:
http://www.husqvarna.com/ddoc/HUSI/HUSI2001_AAaa/HUSI2001_AAaa__1062604-62.pdf

Manual:
http://www.husqvarna.com/ddoc/HUSO/HUSO2004_USen/HUSO2004_USen__1140241-95.pdf

 

[merr6267]

Thanks everyone,
I've got to believe that the first time that I ran it that the bar was not seated very well on plate, because afterward, I looked and that small donut was there, and seemed to be nicely compliant, etc. I cleaned the mating surfaces and re-assembled and all seemed ok after that. I ran 2 tanks through it and there was definitely plenty of oil on the chain. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something.

As for the oiler adjustment, Thanks for summarizing it for me. I did read through the manual that Niko linked to and all sounds good.

Now I just have to do a muffler mod and run it again. Then of course the 346 and the 372 need to have the base gasket removed for more fun.

I kind of like to do this stuff one step at a time, I suppose it's the engineer/nerd part of me that likes to see how all variables effect the results.

Then it's time to saddle it with a longer bar and shorten up the 346. I'm reading that 16" works well on the 346, while it has a 18 on it now. It's ok, but sometimes feel just a little nose heavy when I'm limbing.

Then I'll find a 28+ for the 372 for the rare occasion where I need to cut something that large. I'll probably run skip chain on that . . . Thoughts?

Thanks,
Phill

 

[SawTroll]

That all sounds cool, but I would try both full comp and skip on the 28" bar, before I desided what to use in the future...:msp_wink:

 

[mikefunaro]

Nice, looks like an older saw with a newer handlebar and bar

 

[merr6267]

Hhhmmmm, just go to thinking. . . My brother -in-law has a 395 that occasionally wears a 36" bar. I'll have to see if I can borrow that bar and chain to run on the 372 for a few cuts on some large wood to see how I think I'd like the difference between skip and full comp. chain when/if I get my own 28-32" combo I'll have some idea of what I prefer. It looks like some of you are able to run those large bars without too much trouble.

Thanks,
PM

 

[mikefunaro]

Realistically I'd limit yourself to a 28....

32 is definitely pushing oiling. you could maybe do it with skip but

a 28 could cut about a 54" tree if you work it from both sides

32 could cut a 62

when you work with a bar that large in trees that large, unless the chain is super sharp it's hard to keep powerhead like a foot of out of the log and proceed to cut like that, it's much easier if you can dog in and bury the full bar. Between the weight of the bar and chain and the weight of the saw it's just way easier to bring the powerhead right in close to the log.

For this reason i'd say stick with a 28 unless you really foresee needing that additional 8" or so of range.

 

[mdavlee]

I wouldn't go longer than a 32" on a 372. I prefer a 30-32" if I'm going above 24". The 28" just isn't a big enough jump from a 24" to me. You only gain about 2 3/4" from a 24" to 28". With spikes a 28" is about 25" of cut. I've had no problems oiling a 32" with a 372 even in dry oak and cherry. I run full comp or semi skip on that length.

 

[o8f150]

you did alright on that deal,, now send it to one of the porters and you will really like it,,,, i sent mine to randy and i really like it even more,,,,, oh,, did i mention i gave 250 shipped for mine :hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:

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[TK]

Running a 28" skip on my 365 I felt as though it could use more oil.