What am I doing wrong? Compression testing

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My compression tester works just fine although it's not an expensive one. I bought it new and it may not be the most accurate but it lets me know if my saws need rings. I have a saw right now that has a piston that looks nearly perfect through the exhaust port but only has 90 psi. compression and won't start. I have rings ordered for it but it may require more than that.

There are some here that feel if the compression gauge does not have "Snap On" clearly visible on the face of the tester, it just cant work correctly. Good luck on your rebuild,I bet the rings help a lot.
 
I don't believe I would have a way to buy a new Snap On tester even if I wanted one. Aren't they only sold to businesses? Guess I could buy a used one but it might be worse than the one I have.
You could buy one online from snap on . Im trying to remember who makes them for snap on you can buy one new for almost half the price.
 
The threads on mine are both the same. The "adapter" on mine is merely an extension to get at hard to reach places. I guess I misused the term "adapter". Actually, all the chainsaw plugs anymore, as far as I know, use the same size threads.
New smaller Stihl saws (171/181/211/251/241) will use the smaller plug size commonly found on some of the trimmers.
 
Some Chevrolets use smaller plugs but I think they have the same thread size. Old Ford cars used a big tapered thread but doubt if any use it now. I got the cylinder off my saw today and it looked really good, no scratches or anything. Piston looked okay also but ring was stuck a little bit. I took the ring off and used an old ring to clean the groove so I guess I'll just try the new ring and see how it does. I'll put the piston in the bore and make sure the clearance is all right first before I slap it together. Then I'll see what my el cheapo compression gauge reads...
 
Good enough :D, but eventually the new stuff will be old stuff. I just thought I'd throw it out there for future reference of others reading the thread:cool:
Then it will fall into my hands...I've never worked on any of the new Stihl saws yet, kinda hope I don't have to...newer chainsaws are getting to be like the newer cars, a pain to work on but nice while they're running..
 
Is it possible that you live at over 12,000 feet some where in Texas? This could easily account for the overly low reading.
Heh, I know everything is bigger in Texas, but I'm fairly certain none of our mountains are that tall. It must be my gauge causing the problem. I picked up a very nice ms390 this weekend. Took down a few dead oaks in my yard, then tested the compression with my gauge. Does anyone want to guess what I got for a reading on a known running saw?
 
I bought an 12mm 044 recently that coughed but wouldnt run....blew 80 psi and the p/cyl were perfect in a New West A/M top end kit. Put a used Giladarni OEM p/c on it and it runs great. I didn't even care what was wrong with the New West Kit. I bet it will be new Bud Light cans in a few days.
 
I'm sure I can use it for larger bore engines, so I won't be throwing it at the garbage men this Wednesday. :givebeer:
 
Is that check valve on the fitting that screws into the plug hole....or is it on the gauge? There must be some volume of air in that gauge assembly prior to the check valve which is lowering the compression ratio. Is it easier to crank the engine with the gauge installed that with the sparkplug installed?
 
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