What are these maggoty looking worms that are killing my Red Oaks?

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Booshcat

ArboristSite Operative
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Is there any way to stop them? They seem to bore through the bark.
I've lost three trees this year. I like firewood, but not getting it against my wishes.
 
Booshcat said:
Is there any way to stop them? They seem to bore through the bark.
I've lost three trees this year. I like firewood, but not getting it against my wishes.

It's probably more likely that they died of something else, like root rot, and the "maggoty worms" are wood boring beetle larvae that come in to dieing and dead trees. The holes are the from the adult beetles leaving the trees; they get in by the adults laying eggs in little divots they chew in the bark.
 
Treeseer>
I'll tryto get pictures later today. They are white, the largest seen about 3/4" long by 1/8 and they look like little segmented worms.

Dr. Dave>
The latest casualty died last summer(?). Last fall the leaves did not drop. I dont have the expertise to know when the tree actually died. This seems to be happening all over my property (about 3 acres ) and only to the oaks. Is there anything preventative that can be done or is this a natural occurence? Nothing has changed ecologically that I know of. This is wooded area and no chemicals or or anything else has been applied.

Thanks all for your input.

Bob
 
From the ISA:
Insects and diseases can threaten tree health. As soon as you notice any abnormality in your tree’s appearance, you should begin a careful examination of the problem. By identifying the specific symptoms of damage and understanding their causes, you may be able to diagnose the problem and select an appropriate treatment.

Stress

Basic elements that influence plant health include sufficient water and light, and a proper balance of nutrients. Too much or too little of any of these environmental conditions may cause plant stress.

Environmental stress weakens plants and makes them more susceptible to insect and disease attack.

Trees deal with environmental stresses, such as shading and competition for water and nutrients in their native environment, by adjusting their growth and development patterns to reflect the availability of the resources. Although trees are adapted to living in stressful conditions in nature, many times the stresses they experience in the landscape are more than they can handle and may make them more susceptible to insects and diseases.

Diagnosis

Correct diagnosis of plant health problems requires a careful examination of the situation.

1. Accurately identify the plant. Because many insects and diseases are plant-specific, this information can quickly limit the number of suspected diseases and disorders.
2. Look for a pattern of abnormality. It may be helpful to compare the affected plant with other plants on the site, especially those of the same species. Differences in color or growth may present clues as to the source of the problem. Nonuniform damage patterns may indicate insects or diseases. Uniform damage over a large area (perhaps several plant species) usually indicates disorders caused by such factors as physical injury, poor drainage, or weather.
3. Carefully examine the landscape. The history of the property and adjacent land may reveal many problems. The number of species affected may also help distinguish between infectious pathogens that are more plant-specific as compared to chemical or environmental factors that affect many different species. Most living pathogens take a relatively long time to spread throughout an area, so if a large percentage of plants becomes diseased virtually overnight, a pathogen is probably not involved.
4. Examine the roots. Note their color: brown or black roots may signal problems. Brown roots often indicate dry soil conditions or the presence of toxic chemicals. Black roots usually reflect overly wet soil or the presence of root-rotting organisms.
5. Check the trunk and branches. Examine the trunk thoroughly for wounds because they provide entrances for pathogens and wood-rotting organisms. Wounds can be caused by weather, fire, lawn mowers, and rodents, as well as a variety of other environmental and mechanical factors. Large defects may indicate a potentially hazardous tree.
6. Note the position and appearance of affected leaves. Dead leaves at the top of the tree are usually the result of environmental or mechanical root stress. Twisted or curled leaves may indicate viral infection, insect feeding, or exposure to herbicides. The size and color of the foliage may tell a great deal about the plant’s condition. Make note of these and any other abnormalities.

Diseases

Three things are required for a disease to develop:

* the presence of a pathogen (the disease-causing agent)
* plant susceptibility to that particular pathogen
* an environment suitable for disease development

Plants vary in susceptibility to pathogens. Many disease-prevention programs focus on the use of pathogen-resistant plant varieties. Even if the pathogen is present and a susceptible plant host is available, the proper environmental conditions must be present over the correct period of time for the pathogen to infect the plant.

Diseases can be classified into two broad categories: those caused by infectious or living agents (diseases) and those caused by noninfectious or nonliving agents (disorders).

Examples of infectious agents include fungi, viruses, and bacteria. Noninfectious diseases, which account for 70 to 90 percent of all plant problems in urban areas, can be caused by such factors as nutrient deficiencies, temperature extremes, vandalism, pollutants, and fluctuations in moisture. Noninfectious disorders often produce symptoms similar to those caused by infectious diseases; therefore, it is essential to distinguish between the two in order to give proper treatment.

Insects

Some insects can cause injury and damage to trees and shrubs. By defoliating trees or sucking their sap, insects can retard plant growth. By boring into the trunk and branches, they interfere with sap flow and weaken the tree structure. Insects may alsocarry some plant diseases. In many cases, however, the insect problem is secondary to problems brought on by a stress disorder or pathogen.

It is important to remember that most insects are beneficial rather than destructive. They help with pollination or act as predators of more harmful species. Therefore, killing all insects without regard to their kind and function can actually be detrimental to tree health.



Insects may be divided into three categories according to their method of feeding: chewing, sucking, or boring. Insects from each group have characteristic patterns of damage that will help you determine the culprit and the proper treatment. Always consult a tree care expert if you have any doubt about the nature of the insect problem or the proper treatment



.

Chewing insects eat plant tissue such as leaves, flowers, buds, and twigs. Indications of damage by these insects is often seen by uneven or broken margins on the leaves, skeletonization of the leaves, and leaf mining. Chewing insects can be beetle adults or larvae, moth larvae (caterpillars), and many other groups of insects. The damage they cause (leaf notching, leaf mining, leaf skeletonizing, etc.) will help in identifying the pest insect.



Sucking insects insert their beak (proboscis) into the tissues of leaves, twigs, branches, flowers, or fruit and then feed on the plant’s juices. Some examples of sucking insects are aphids, mealy bugs, thrips, and leafhoppers. Damage caused by these pests is often indicated by discoloration, drooping, wilting, leaf spots (stippling), honeydew, or general lack of vigor in the affected plant.

Boring insects spend time feeding somewhere beneath the bark of a tree as larvae. Some borers kill twigs and leaders when adults feed or when eggs hatch into larvae that bore into the stem and develop into adults. Other borers, known as bark beetles, mate at or near the bark surface, and adults lay eggs in tunnels beneath the bark.

Treatment

The treatment method used for a particular insect or disease problem will depend on the species involved, the extent of the problem, and a variety of other factors specific to the situation and local regulations. Always consult a professional if you have any doubt about the nature of the problem or proper treatment.
 
Here are two pictures, the best I could do with cellphone camera. Will try to get better ones with real dig. camera later.
Hope it is not the Chestnut borer, that one seems near impossible to stop.

View attachment 38778

View attachment 38779

Looked at the bore holes in the bark, although it is difficult to tell, most seem to be round. I did see one or two that were "D" shaped, but not the majority.
I'm also not seeing the mass of "trails" that were in the chestnut borer information.
This could be due, however, to the fact that the tree has not been dead for a long period.
 
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When trees get borer infestations, they are usually stressed by other factors first.
Can you get some pictures of the trees and the environment they are growing in?
Have there been any soil disturbances like grade changes, trenches for electric, gas, phone, cable? Any new sewer installation or well work?
 
This is straight from the umass website updated Friday under the cape cod south east report, " Many oaks throughout the county are in decline or dead. Many of these trees started to show brown leaves after the extreme heat and dry soils this past August. Inspection of many of these trees in SE Massachusetts shows evidence of flat-headed borers which often appear when trees are in severe stress or decline. Driving through the county, many of these dead trees can be observed along roadways and may pose a threat to passing motorists and pedestrians. Some Plymouth County towns have a hazard tree removal program and are busy marking trees for take down before they pose a possible problem this winter due to winter storms."
 
Looks like some other kind of borer, although its hard to tell from the pics (small and a bit out of focus.

The two-lined chestnut borer is a Buprestid beetle; this family, known as the flathead borers or metalic wood borers, has species that are flattened and usually metalic as adults, with short antennae; larvae tend to have very wide heads in relation to the body. I didn't see this in your pics.

Therefore, your borer larvae are probably in the Cerambycid family; larvae of these beetles have round heads about the same diameter as the body; adults are round in cross-section and usually have long antennae.

Species of both of these groups tend to invade dieing trees or parts of trees, but can also kill trees that otherwise would not die if not colonized. If these trees had been defoliated by gypsy moth, that would set them up for both Armillaria root rot and borer colonization. The trees could also be water stressed, weak codominant trees in the stand, or simply be in a stand with some dieing trees that produced a lot of beetles.
 
Booshcat said:
Is there any way to stop them? They seem to bore through the bark.
I've lost three trees this year. I like firewood, but not getting it against my wishes.
You could try your best to improve soil moisture and nutrient levels in conjunction with a merit soil treatment but this is costly and might not be feasible. I strongly suggest you contact at least three arborists in your area and get their opinion and estimates.
 
Thanks all for your help. These trees (as most around here) were hit hard by the gypsy moths, plus the weather conditions mentioned in the UMass info came in to play.
I guess they were stressed and weakened and fell victim to these borers.
Hopefully I won't lose any more if conditions improve next year.

Has there been discussion here about preventing or minimizing gypsy moth defoliation?
maybe I will be able to take some steps to at least keep that damage to a minimum next spring.
 
Bayer is now marketing Imidicloprid to homeowners in a granular soil applied product, and although it won't do anything for Gypsy Moth, it should be fairly effective against the borers, if they're not too far gone. It might be worth looking into for the higher value Oaks.
 
gypsy

excelant article in this months TREE SEVICES MAG.-
LEARNIG TO LIVE WITH THE GYPSY MOTH" BY THOM MC EVOY.

""'
 
Thanks for the update...I'll have to find a copy of that magazine.

Don't really want to live wth em but...I'll take what I can get to slow em down maybe a little.
 
Your area has it's share of gypsy moth but winter moth and canker worm are your main issues. If the grove of trees is small enough you really should look into some type of caterpillar treatment for next spring. At least contact some one in your area who sprays to get a price.After driving up Rt6 to Rt3 and seeing so many dead oaks I'd call soon.
 
Bt.

Call Kathy M. Upton For The Magazine At 800-

422-7117. A Safe Bacterium Bacillius Thuringiensis










For The Magaez Markerong Directorine
 

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