What are your thoughts on the Husqvarna 365?

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I think I have four 365 Specials but none are straight 365's? I also have a 362
This is the newest one right before they went to the XT style. I really like the 365's for they run almost as good as the 372's. I bought the saw in the pictures from Procarbine as NIB a couple years ago. It was dry and clean, I kept it by my chair in the living room for a month or so and admired it before deciding what the heck and I gassed it up and made cuts with it in the wood pile for a couple weeks.


 
365 Special is a nice saw. A buddy of mine picked one up new a few years back. I accidently picked it up one day instead of my 385XP while we were working a huge elm. Wouldn't have known in the sub 20" limbs except for it sounded a bit different. It ran very well.
 
The 372 usually has a Walbro HD12B
All my 372's and 365's have the HD12B including the one 371 that I have.
 
the 371 used the HD6 and the 372 used the HD12. i know for a fact that i have never seen an HD6 on an all original 372 but can't remember whether i've seen an HD12 on a 371. the change may have been when the model numbers changed but can't be certain. just backing myself up there before sawtroll shows up with his IPL homework and a goal to give me a hard time.
 
the 371 used the HD6 and the 372 used the HD12. i know for a fact that i have never seen an HD6 on an all original 372 but can't remember whether i've seen an HD12 on a 371. the change may have been when the model numbers changed but can't be certain. just backing myself up there before sawtroll shows up with his IPL homework and a goal to give me a hard time.
My 371 may not be original with the WD12B? I've only had it 3 years and no telling what may have been changed on it. I know it has a 372 cylinder on it.
 
I could only ad to the rave reviews that the bottom ends will last longer in these vs 372xp. Less beating due to the smaller displacement and the lower rpms it turns. If you port them they are very nice and won't tax the bottom end like a ported 372xp. When I mean port, I mean with a compression increase of 20-40 psi. The week link of the 372 is the crank so the smaller bore 365 you can get more radical with the porting. "$.02"
 
Spark plug is getting spark, piston and ring look good, cylinder is good.

I tore the carb apart. There was some gunk in there. Cleaned it out and blew it out with the air compressor.

I am guessing it was a case of the carb gunk and old spark plug that was keeping it from running.

Squish was at .044" with the base gasket. Removing the base gasket took out .020" and leaves the squish at .024".

I am debating a little port work or just putting it back together and doing a muffler mod.

What do you think?

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depends what 365 it is. the original 365 IMO isn't worth much at all especially not running. lots a variables when it comes to putting a value on something. if a seller don't let me inspect the top end i automatically assume it's pooched. non running prices with top end inspected as good - original 365 = $75 365sp = $200 365xt = $350. these are estimated prices, condition would determine the real value but these are max i'd pay if looking for a saw. if i'm not looking for a saw i cheap right out and won't pay much for either of them. if i'm patient these saws come to me for free.

What he said. There are several models, not unlike the 372, or the 346...
 
Spark plug is getting spark, piston and ring look good, cylinder is good.
I tore the carb apart. There was some gunk in there. Cleaned it out and blew it out with the air compressor.
I am guessing it was a case of the carb gunk and old spark plug that was keeping it from running.
Squish was at .044" with the base gasket. Removing the base gasket took out .020" and leaves the squish at .024".
I am debating a little port work or just putting it back together and doing a muffler mod.
What do you think?

Sounds really good for a $50 saw. An .024" squish should be fine. I would not bother with any more porting, other than buffing out the exhaust port and opening up the muffler some or adding a second side/shark gill muffler port.
 
My 365 ran fine on the zama carb. A modded walbro or tillotson carb will wake it up some but a stock walbro won't make a noticeable difference.
 
So I finally got around to messing with this saw again. For the time being, I left the Zama carb on the saw.

Base gasket was removed and I used Hondabond giving me a .024" squish.

I lowered and squared the bottom of the intake port a little. I ported the exhaust and kept a nice arc to it to avoid catching a ring. I did not mess with the transfers because it was beyond both my comfort level and tool capabilities since there are no transfer covers in the 365. I matched the exhaust port on the cylinder to the heat shield, gasket and muffler inlet.

I removed the screen, left the OEM muffler port, and added another side angle exit 5/8" ID exhaust opening.

20140608_155032.jpg

New air and fuel filters, new fuel line and a new spark plug. Compression was reading 155psi.

New 20" bar and chain, fresh fuel and and she fired right up.

Seems to run and cut good, but it is idling too high. It is idling at about 3400 rpms and I do not think it is due to an air leak. If I remove the air filter and push on the throttle rocker, it will drop down to around 2700 rpms. Any thoughts?

I also noticed that the kill switch does not work. I know that I can use the choke to kill it, but want to fix the switch right. Are these readily available and easy to change?

The other thing is the top lever that you have to depress before you can squeeze the throttle revs the saw when you push it down without squeezing the throttle trigger. What gives?
 
[/QUOTE]
Seems to run and cut good, but it is idling too high. It is idling at about 3400 rpms and I do not think it is due to an air leak. If I remove the air filter and push on the throttle rocker, it will drop down to around 2700 rpms. Any thoughts? Binding throttle cable or linkage

I also noticed that the kill switch does not work. I know that I can use the choke to kill it, but want to fix the switch right. Are these readily available and easy to change? Yes

The other thing is the top lever that you have to depress before you can squeeze the throttle revs the saw when you push it down without squeezing the throttle trigger. What gives? See the first question [/QUOTE]
 
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