the wrist pin and spark plug tell the story here. if it was cold seized the pin would still be lubed. even if the saw was run lean your still getting 50:1 @ the pin.
there was a cataclysmic event here.
there was a cataclysmic event here.
They say confession's good for the soul? Well here goes. I hope someone benefits from this. I know I learned a lesson or two.
My latest repair on this saw came back after only about an hour of use. It never siezed up, but wouldn't start. Compression was down to 120. OK, it's time to get to the bottom of this. I totally disassembled the saw, leaving only the cylinder. I bolted the muffler back on with a piece of inner tube under it. I clamped a piece on the intake as well. I then hooked my vacuum pump to the impulse line. It was slowly leaking. I sprayed carb cleaner on the flywheel side crank seal. No change. I then sprayed it on the clutch side seal and it sucked the liquid right in. Now that the oil was gone off the seal I really had a vacuum leak. So both seals came out and new ones are going in both sides.
Now. How can a saw idle properly and seemingly hold a tune in the shop yet have a vacuum leak that significant? I have erroneously operated on the principle that if there's a vacuum leak, the saw won't run as well as this saw did. I had a much less severe seal leak on a 026 and it wouldn't idle down properly.
:
If you had a significant leak as mentioned, I suppose you have been compensating a lot on the L screw (richer) for idle. That could have pointed out the problem ....
opcorn:
Not at all. 1 1/8 turns. Idled perfectly. That's how I found the leak on my 260. I couldn't tune it to idle properly. It just wanted to race.
It still worries me though that the air leak on your saw was not noticeable in any way in the first place.
Worries me to. Now I feel like I have to go to the trouble to leak test every saw I work on.
I hope someone gets something out of this and that I still have atleast a little bit of a reputation left
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