What is the best method to repair stripped threads in plastic?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

ham

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Dec 20, 2018
Messages
224
Reaction score
170
Location
USA
I'm replacing the rear handle and freshening up my MS290. The threads for the brake assembly cover, both screws backed the threads out with the screw.

Any thoughts? It's not a stressed part. I was thinking of doing a wrap of teflon around the screw. Or maybe using a blazing hot soldering iron and dimpling in the plastic
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3315.jpg
    IMG_3315.jpg
    3.5 MB · Views: 41
Probably at least 5 different ways will work.
Many wraps of teflon tape, like you suggested
Stick the end of a zip tie in the hole, like the toothpick in a wood screw hole trick.
Could shoot some hot snot in the hole right before assembly
Could tap for a slightly larger thread
Could helicoil, and use a machine thread screw thereafter.
 
Also i feel like some manufacturers screws that go into plastic are more aggressive than others. In fact i think that old stihl screws for plastic and new stihl screws for plastic are slightly different, one or the other may get enough bite.
 
I have made a repair like this 2 different ways.
One is to fill the hole with JB then when it's hardened drill and tap to your desired size. The second and easiest way is use a grease of some sort Vaseline or Lubriplate even grease gun grease. Coat the screw / bolt threads lightly so the threads are still prominent and then fill the hole with JB Weld or the epoxy of your choosing . Then put the bolt back into the hole into the wet epoxy and let it set up overnight. In the am if you want to unscrew the bolt. The epoxy will take the shape of the bolt threads thus making a perfectly threaded hole. You may have to use a piece of tape to hold the bolt down into the hole while the epoxy hardens up.
 
I have made a repair like this 2 different ways.
One is to fill the hole with JB then when it's hardened drill and tap to your desired size. The second and easiest way is use a grease of some sort Vaseline or Lubriplate even grease gun grease. Coat the screw / bolt threads lightly so the threads are still prominent and then fill the hole with JB Weld or the epoxy of your choosing . Then put the bolt back into the hole into the wet epoxy and let it set up overnight. In the am if you want to unscrew the bolt. The epoxy will take the shape of the bolt threads thus making a perfectly threaded hole. You may have to use a piece of tape to hold the bolt down into the hole while the epoxy hardens up.

I was thinking of both of your methods. Do you have a preference?

Roy
 
Lot of people don't know before you screw those screws used in plastic downward, you should turn the screw outward to allow it to drop in the original threads otherwise they easily catch the side of the hole and rethread or tap another thread inside the originals. The more it happens, the weaker the threads become until their shot. Prevention is the easiest solution however it doesn't always happen, especially when you work on preowned saws.
You fellows have lots of good ways mentioned here to make or recondiition those boogered up threads to work again. I usually looked for a bigger, self tapping screw when i run into that.
 
I'm replacing the rear handle and freshening up my MS290. The threads for the brake assembly cover, both screws backed the threads out with the screw.

Any thoughts? It's not a stressed part. I was thinking of doing a wrap of teflon around the screw. Or maybe using a blazing hot soldering iron and dimpling in the plastic
If you don’t need the chain brake then gut it and put it back together using a nut wager and bolt .
 
Lot of people don't know before you screw those screws used in plastic downward, you should turn the screw outward to allow it to drop in the original threads...

Beat me to it. I just learned that one this past year.
 
Ive had limited luck with long term fixes on plastic stihls but some other brands i heat the screw and drop it in...then cool it quickly.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
 
I ended up finding these. Heat set threaded inserts. It’s overkill for my particular situation but am going to go ahead and epoxy in a few in the interest of “doing it right”
 

Attachments

  • 21D9AE1E-AECC-4599-A07C-1F0CDF1CC968.png
    21D9AE1E-AECC-4599-A07C-1F0CDF1CC968.png
    3.5 MB · Views: 32
I'd lean towards using a quality 2-part epoxy. Clean, dry, and degreaser most important.
If there was enough meat around the hole, I'd drill it oversized and tap to a larger hole to give fresh clean surface area to bond to. I'd fill the oversized tapped hole with epoxy and tap to the correct size for the OEM screw. If you insert a coffee stir straw into the epoxy you'll have your pilot hole, just seal the end and brace centered in place.
 
Way overkill & too much $$ for securing a cover, but just my 2 cents.

Before you order all those brass inserts & tools, call your local Stihl dealers & check stock or order two # 9074 477 4130 screws. Couple of dollars at most, your existing screws are D4x15mm & these are larger M5x16. Drill the two cover holes out to M5 major to clear.

If you can strip those out, then proceed on!
 
Back
Top