What size skid steer?
- Thread starter ducaticorse
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VA-Sawyer
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I have and use a Bobcat 753 for moving wood ( mostly logs ). I have fairly level ground here at the home place ( 2.2 acres, mostly grass ) and it does real well here. Most work sites here in western NC are NOT level and it can be a problem real quick in my tree service work. About 1/2 of the jobs I work, I don't take the Bobcat due to terrain. Tracks over the wheels don't help much on that front. I have experience in T300's and T250's and will say that factory tracked Bobcats are much more stable on the slopes than the 753. Wish I could afford 2 Bobcats, the T for the rough terrain and the 753 for yards. If you are careful to make driving turns ( arcs ) rather than skidding turns ( pivots ) then you can run a skid steer over dry grass with little damage. I run it over my yard all the time. Skid steers tend to be rear end heavy when empty and front end heavy with a full load, and I also use that fact to reduce grass damage when needing to make tighter turns. You just quickly speed up or slow down ( depending on which end is heavy ) just as you start the pivot. This makes the 'light end' even lighter so that the pivot is mostly on two wheels. After a while you tend to do it without thinking. I can spend a couple hours moving logs around my property from the driveway to the log yard, to the sawmill, or to the firepit and have no yard damage, let my dad spend 10 minutes doing it and I have ugly skid marks in the grass.
Because of the very heavy attachments available to handle logs, I ended up making my own log grabbing attachment. It is light enough that 1 guy can move it around ( not pick it up and carry it around, but I can stand up on end no problem by myself) and that means a lot on useful payload for a mid size Bobcat. Why make a claw type attachment that weighs 800 lbs for a machine rated to lift 1300 lbs ? I can handle 2400 lb logs no problem if carried chest high or lower and pivoted back towards the front tires.
Hope this helps you in your decision.
RIck
Because of the very heavy attachments available to handle logs, I ended up making my own log grabbing attachment. It is light enough that 1 guy can move it around ( not pick it up and carry it around, but I can stand up on end no problem by myself) and that means a lot on useful payload for a mid size Bobcat. Why make a claw type attachment that weighs 800 lbs for a machine rated to lift 1300 lbs ? I can handle 2400 lb logs no problem if carried chest high or lower and pivoted back towards the front tires.
Hope this helps you in your decision.
RIck
I run a case 1840 skid steer for my tree work, with a root grapple. A bucket grapple is more versitle but will tere up more yards because you cant see very well where as a root grapple you can see through. I just leave my bucket on my flatbed so if I need it I just make a quick swap. Tracks are not very good to do tree work with in residencial areas I have ran t250 and 300 with tracks and grapple and they will destroy a yard unless you can go strait in and out. If you are stuck on a bobcat the 763 is time proven and just right power to weight for tree work. If you plan on working on it yourself you may look at a diff brand bobcat engines are turned sideways in the back and are a pain to work on, with that said there isnt one made that as real easy to work on they are built to be compact and that comes at a cost. You should be able to get a nice machine for 10 grand but you can bet that you will be fixing leaks. You might look and some specs on diff machines U can go to coleman equipments website they have specs on all the major brands new and old. One more thing about tracks they R more maintnace and replacement cost for rollers and gears with new tracks will cost you around 10 grand. new tires about 550. These have been my experiances thanks James
ducaticorse
Addicted to ArboristSite
Definitely helps... Tell me about this light attachment you made, you make a great point on the weight..
ducaticorse
Addicted to ArboristSite
Thanks James, great help. I like the kubota motors, and have become familiar with the costs of rebuilding and replacement. How would I test drive gears, and hydro pumps? Anything to look out for when test running?
The 763 is a great machine, I have been very happy with mine. I have been looking for another for about a year in that same 10K range but haven't found one as clean as I would like it so I'm going to sell my 763 to add funds for the new(er) unit. I have a Farm Tech grapple that I have bent all to hell, buy the most heavy duty grapple you can get. I have a Beaver Squeezer too and it is one handy attachment but pricy.
ducaticorse
Addicted to ArboristSite
Thanks Diet,
This is obviously my first skid.. Is yours beat to hell? I'd be up for looking at it if it isn't a POS lol.
Deposit went out yesterday on the 1890 btw. I got the certificate of origin, it's actually a 98 purchased in aug of 99. With 306 original hours, unreal....... SO PUMPED!!!
POS is relative... Its not the prettiest but runs great, I've got some odds n ends to fix on it before I sell it like fuel gauge, etc. But it plows every storm.
ducaticorse
Addicted to ArboristSite
LOL, yes, yes it is...
VA-Sawyer
Addicted to ArboristSite
Ducaticorse,
Hope I got your name spelled right. As far as testing one out, I suggest finding a job for it and hiring the owner bring it out and run it for at least a few hours doing the job. Move a big dirt pile for a friend, spread gravel in the in-laws driveway or if it has an attachment for grabbing wood, have the owner demo it moving wood at a jobsite. Just make sure he knows what he is doing, you don't need some nut scaring trees for YOUR customer. The 'few hours' part is important. A skid steer with real problems might run OK for 10 - 15 minutes, but will probably reveal itself after a couple hours of work. After the demo, park it in a fairly flat clean area for a while. Once it is moved again look where it was parked, if it has leak problems, you will probably be able to tell. Make sure you can see the Aux Hydraulics in action even if you have to rent an auger or trencher for 1/2 a day. If you want a better evaluation, have a dealer do an inspection of the unit and give you a full report.
As far as my grapple goes, it is a prototype I built over a long weekend. Except for the cylinder, it is made from scrap steel. I plan on building another one using new metal. I figure it will cost about $500 to build the new one, but this one is working so well, I can't seem to make myself spend the money. This one is really rough looking,( cut it out with a hand plasma unit ) and modified multiple times to get the strength in the right places. I don't want to post pictures here, as it is not up to my normal workmanship. I would be willing to send you a few pictures via email if you want. Just PM me if interested.
Rick
Hope I got your name spelled right. As far as testing one out, I suggest finding a job for it and hiring the owner bring it out and run it for at least a few hours doing the job. Move a big dirt pile for a friend, spread gravel in the in-laws driveway or if it has an attachment for grabbing wood, have the owner demo it moving wood at a jobsite. Just make sure he knows what he is doing, you don't need some nut scaring trees for YOUR customer. The 'few hours' part is important. A skid steer with real problems might run OK for 10 - 15 minutes, but will probably reveal itself after a couple hours of work. After the demo, park it in a fairly flat clean area for a while. Once it is moved again look where it was parked, if it has leak problems, you will probably be able to tell. Make sure you can see the Aux Hydraulics in action even if you have to rent an auger or trencher for 1/2 a day. If you want a better evaluation, have a dealer do an inspection of the unit and give you a full report.
As far as my grapple goes, it is a prototype I built over a long weekend. Except for the cylinder, it is made from scrap steel. I plan on building another one using new metal. I figure it will cost about $500 to build the new one, but this one is working so well, I can't seem to make myself spend the money. This one is really rough looking,( cut it out with a hand plasma unit ) and modified multiple times to get the strength in the right places. I don't want to post pictures here, as it is not up to my normal workmanship. I would be willing to send you a few pictures via email if you want. Just PM me if interested.
Rick
TreeClimber57
Addicted to ArboristSite
We have had both. we find tracks tend to tear more.. and use wheeled on larger machines.
Tracks are good for smaller ones though.
Tracks are better in snow though..
I've subbed for an outfit here that ran an a300. That articulated machine would go full throttle down a lawn and turn instantly left or right and not touch the grass. It had the hi-flo hydraulics for all the fancy attachments even ran a 4 foot snowblower. Complete badazz imo, I wish I could gab one. I believe his leverage was to put dealer against dealer, this thing was a year old when he got it for around 15 G's. I think if you wait and have cash in hand you'll do well.
ducaticorse
Addicted to ArboristSite
What loader was it? I can only find Gehls...... And I like to think I'm not a total moron either, but i can't find any other ones available.
Not sure what year, but it was a bobcat A300. It had just enough power to run a nice size Fecon without a problem. Only problems I saw were the CV joints or ball joints ( not sure if thats what their called on a bobcat).
VA-Sawyer
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yea, if it was flatter terrain around here, I would like an A300. Would like a mid size A series even better, but they don't make one yet as far as I know. Note: The A300 is NOT articulated, it has all wheel steering.
Rick
Rick
Right you are. It is not articulated. All wheel and worked awesome.
adam32
ArboristSite Operative
They had an A220 for a while...
I have a New Holland LS170 and I am happy with it...next one will be tracked for sure!!
VA-Sawyer
Addicted to ArboristSite
Just checked out info on the A220. Had not heard of it before. With an operating weight of 7745 lbs one could custom build a trailer to haul it around and be under the NC 10,000 lb trailer CDL limits. I wonder if it does any better on slopes than the 753.
Rick
Rick
A 7 series machine would be fine for what you can afford. If you are planning on snow maintenance a wheeled machine will be cheaper to keep up. I started with a 773 and bought an new ASV RC 85 back in 06. It has been good machine. They don't make the 85 anymore but I can still get parts. As far as tearing things up... I would say 75% of that has to do with operator. Going to lift something heavy enough to tip your machine? You will mess things up regardless of undercarriage type.
adam32
ArboristSite Operative
Yeah we have the 10,000 lb limit here in Cali too...I still haul around my 303C CR with a 3500lb trailer! Screw em!! I just say its for my personal use!!
I don't think you'd notice much difference on slopes, maybe though since the A220 is wider...
