What to do with milled wood? - live edged furniture of mine.

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
This is a geogre Nakashima style coffee table made from a wood, which you americans don't use much , sweet chestnut. The colouring is quite made, the board was left in a cattle shed for years and I think that why its so dark. almost looks like walnut, but the tree I cut down was definatly sweet chestnut. Enjoy
 
Some pictures of one of the oak benches i'm making. It part of a bookmatched pair. The other I'm still making now. Some Really close tight grain on this English Oak. Really nice to work with but was a pain in the a*! to mill,lots of sharperning up the ripping chain milling that tree.
 
Nice work thanks for posting. Love the spalted wood:clap:

Looking forward to see how you finish the chairs.
 
I love the spalted wood too. I just wish it wasn't usually such a fine line between not being spalted enough and being too soft to use. The bench with the big split is really neat as well - you just wouldn't want to sit down at the split end and then slide down to the other, you'd get a real nasty pinch in yer arse as the split tapers together!
 
Tom,

Some very nice work there, thank you for the inspiration!

I see that one of your pieces used keys of spalted wood. Is there enough strength in the spalted wood for that application?

Dan
 
Thanks everone for your such kind replies.

The choice of finish I've used is a 'general finishes- danish oil-natural.I use X 10 coats of that with 24 hours inbetween each coat and a rub down with fine wire wool. Then two coats of a beeswax paste wax on top to finsh. Its buffed with a lamps wool mop aswell. This a bit over the top, as I normally just use the oil and do about 5 coats.

Spalted wood is both a wonderful and unforgiving wood to work with. You have to catch it at the right momment, to earlier and it looks just dirty and dull, too late and its mush. Some of the woods that spalt well are, soft maple, beech, birch, ash, oak(sometimes) and Alder.

My table has a large soft patch which I have to deal with. The text books say you should flood it with super glue. This works on the small scale but it was impractical in this case. So for the first two coats of finish I used a 50/50 mix of danish oil and white sprit. It soaks it all up. I used about 1/3 of a gallon of finish!!!

In terms of using spalted for inlayed key, it really depends. I wouldn't use them if they were under massive stresses. Mine on the coffee table were made out of some beech that wasn't discoloured but had nice ink lines. This norally means that the wood is sound. Also I made them about an inch deep, so there nice and chunky.

Hi Charlieh, not far from me then, I use to live in leek. What set up you running? If your ever in derby, email me.

p.s sorry if I'm waffling abit. Tom
 
Thanks everone for your such kind replies.

The choice of finish I've used is a 'general finishes- danish oil-natural.I use X 10 coats of that with 24 hours inbetween each coat and a rub down with fine wire wool. Then two coats of a beeswax paste wax on top to finsh. Its buffed with a lamps wool mop aswell. This a bit over the top, as I normally just use the oil and do about 5 coats.

Spalted wood is both a wonderful and unforgiving wood to work with. You have to catch it at the right momment, to earlier and it looks just dirty and dull, too late and its mush. Some of the woods that spalt well are, soft maple, beech, birch, ash, oak(sometimes) and Alder.

My table has a large soft patch which I have to deal with. The text books say you should flood it with super glue. This works on the small scale but it was impractical in this case. So for the first two coats of finish I used a 50/50 mix of danish oil and white sprit. It soaks it all up. I used about 1/3 of a gallon of finish!!!

In terms of using spalted for inlayed key, it really depends. I wouldn't use them if they were under massive stresses. Mine on the coffee table were made out of some beech that wasn't discoloured but had nice ink lines. This norally means that the wood is sound. Also I made them about an inch deep, so there nice and chunky.

Hi Charlieh, not far from me then, I use to live in leek. What set up you running? If your ever in derby, email me.

p.s sorry if I'm waffling abit. Tom

You could do a laminated butterfly key with the top 1/4" of the spalted wood, and the bottom 1/2" to 3/4" of whatever wood you need to keep the stresses in check.
 
Excellent pictures. Thanks for posting!

Really like the coffee table :cheers:
 

Latest posts

Back
Top