Welderman85
ArboristSite Operative
A few home made splitters came up for sale by me and I would like to grab one. What are important things to look for. I I'm welder by trade so a little fab work is ok
What to look for In a used home made splitter
- Thread starter Welderman85
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MechanicMatt
Cut Split Stack Burn
Leaks..... and preferably a two stage pump
Welderman85
ArboristSite Operative
What's a good way to guess the tonnage
Leaks, does it work, does it start. How does everything look.
For tonnage we’d need the ram info and the pump info. I know nearly nothing about hydraulics but some on here are really good.
For tonnage we’d need the ram info and the pump info. I know nearly nothing about hydraulics but some on here are really good.
Figure the square inch of the piston, multiply by max psi and divide by 2,000.
The force is possibly the easy peasy. I have looked at several splitters where as the cylinder was not labeled or clearly marked. Calculate the area of the ram times 2,000 2,500 or 3,000 will gibe you the force or tonnage. Radius squared times 3.1416 equals the force. A 4'' ram or cylinder would be 2X2 X 3.1416 X 2,500 would be 31,416 or 16 tons. If the pump is very good could produce 3,000 or almost 19 tons. On most rams one has to guess the wall thickness as that is the part that does not produce any force. Thanks
4seasons
ArboristSite Guru
Same answer as the two above post but this calculator will do it for you:
http://woodsplitterplans.com/guides/hydraulic-cycle-time-calculator.htm
Also remember that most companies overrate their tonnage on their log splitters. Home build splitters are often overrated because their builders often see a 4" cylinder splitter rated in a store at 30 tons so they claim their splitter is also 30 tons. It takes 4800 psi to make 30 tons from a 4" cylinder . Most pumps are set at 2500 psi and so are the bypass on the valves. I'm not saying that you can't adjust them or that some components are not up to the task, but a general rule is at 2500 psi a 4" cylinder gives 15 tons, 4.5" is 20 tons, 5" is 25 tons.
Now that I have said all that about tonnage, wedge design is much more important. A SuperSplit has no tonnage rating but works very fast and efficient due to the short narrow wedge. A wedge on the ram design is much wider and requires more force. It also requires more force to run a 4 way wedge. Also a tall wedge or foot plate puts more torque on the beam thus requires stronger design.
http://woodsplitterplans.com/guides/hydraulic-cycle-time-calculator.htm
Also remember that most companies overrate their tonnage on their log splitters. Home build splitters are often overrated because their builders often see a 4" cylinder splitter rated in a store at 30 tons so they claim their splitter is also 30 tons. It takes 4800 psi to make 30 tons from a 4" cylinder . Most pumps are set at 2500 psi and so are the bypass on the valves. I'm not saying that you can't adjust them or that some components are not up to the task, but a general rule is at 2500 psi a 4" cylinder gives 15 tons, 4.5" is 20 tons, 5" is 25 tons.
Now that I have said all that about tonnage, wedge design is much more important. A SuperSplit has no tonnage rating but works very fast and efficient due to the short narrow wedge. A wedge on the ram design is much wider and requires more force. It also requires more force to run a 4 way wedge. Also a tall wedge or foot plate puts more torque on the beam thus requires stronger design.
If it's under $300 what I look for is gas and a chunk of Oak!
4seasons
ArboristSite Guru
Also look at where leaks are coming from. A leak in the pump or cylinder can be a huge problem, but a leaky hose or fitting can be replaced under $20.
alleyyooper
Addicted to ArboristSite
Look for leaks, does trhe engine run, a good test it to take one of your nastest knots with you and see if it will split it.
I can split Oak by hand with a double bit axe. but nasty knots on the other hand?
Al
I can split Oak by hand with a double bit axe. but nasty knots on the other hand?
Al
Since you are a welder/fabricator, You should be able to judge the quality of the build. The first thing I would look for is just how dirty and nasty the thing is. If its pretty dirty, chances are it has some leaks. Finding the leaks on a nasty machine is usually pretty easy, look for the clean spots, that's where the leaking oil will have washed off the grime. Engine and type of pump is next. Will the engine crank easy and run and does it run or bogg when working. Bogging could mean the pump pressure is set to high or the engine is worn out or the pump is to large for the engine. Is the pump a two stage or single stage. A two stage will take less hp to pull, but if the engine will pull it, a single stage pump could give faster cycle times. If the splitter is equipped with a pressure gauge, fire the engine and dead head the cyl and see how much pressure it will build. Listen to the engine and see at what pressure the engine starts to bog down or die. Do you hear a squeal as the pressure bypasses the relief and the engine just keeps on chugging, if so, chances are you can turn the relief pressure up a bit for a little more tonnage. If the engine boggs way down or dies, the relief might be set for to high a pressure. If the build look like it will hold together, is leak free and runs, but doesn't have a pressure gauge, best thing to do is split a little wood with it and determine if it will actually do the work you want it to. If it wont split like you want it to, move on and look for something that will.
Welderman85
ArboristSite Operative
Thank you all for your help
Also, putting it thru the paces is a good idea, if the one your buying is any where near so. Ohio, I have a testing facility. Good Luck!
