he's correct ... there's a spark plug tester with a pump to test if coil is able to arc under pressure
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/22833.htm
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/22833.htm
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Got our 660 back from Baileys and started the saw and idled great and sounded good at half throttle when the saw arrived. Fast forward two weeks and had a final cut on a stump. Whipped out the old 660 and ready to see it rock and roll and just started to cut. Did not even get in to the stump two inches and say bogged down and died. Started saw and still would not cut. Chain is sharp and is not binding on the bar. Took the 660 to a dealer and he checked fuel settings, pressured and vacumed checked and found the decompression valve leaked when wiggled. Changed out the valve and still have the same problem when saw gets into the wood. Paid him for four hours of work and he is puzzled. He thinks that it could be the coil but hates to put one on it just as a guess. Any other ideas? We have spent almost spent twice the amount on the saw than when we bought it. When does one cut his losses and moves on.
You do not need a tester to check for a failing coil but it will make things easier to see. If you do not have one then you will need a dark work area to be able to clearly see the spark on the plug.
Check spark on the saw when it is cold.
Warm saw up until it stalls and test spark.
After the saw has stalled pull the plug and test it in the dark, quickly because as the coil cools the spark may improve. If the coil is weak the spark will look different. I purchased the tester simply to save having to pull plugs to check for spark.
Using an inexpensive inline tester you will see a difference if it is a big enough difference to make the saw stop running. The inline tester that I use was around $10.00 at a auto parts store.
It gets used a lot.
If you have multiple saws that run good put the tester on a couple different ones to get a base line of what good spark looks like using the tester. The one that I am currently using will light anywhere from a dull dim orange on weak to a bright orange yellow on a stong coil.
If it fails to s[park warm, replace the spark plug with a know could plug. I tossed out quite a few new Bosch plugs and scored some good coils that were tossed out as bad because when the shop replaced the coil they put a new plug in as well.
Is this the saw that was eating P/Cs and now it is not running again?
It is probably time to stop paying the fellow that took 4 hours to test crap that was not wrong. Is the current P/C set on the saw damaged?
Ill take it. I have coils n plugs and tools. These saws realy sre bullit proof and simple to work. Probly could have it running like a top for lrss then ehat it cost to ship to baileys.
Got our 660 back from Baileys and started the saw and idled great and sounded good at half throttle when the saw arrived. Fast forward two weeks and had a final cut on a stump. Whipped out the old 660 and ready to see it rock and roll and just started to cut. Did not even get in to the stump two inches and say bogged down and died. Started saw and still would not cut. Chain is sharp and is not binding on the bar. Took the 660 to a dealer and he checked fuel settings, pressured and vacumed checked and found the decompression valve leaked when wiggled. Changed out the valve and still have the same problem when saw gets into the wood. Paid him for four hours of work and he is puzzled. He thinks that it could be the coil but hates to put one on it just as a guess. Any other ideas? We have spent almost spent twice the amount on the saw than when we bought it. When does one cut his losses and moves on.
Ill take it. I have coils n plugs and tools. These saws realy sre bullit proof and simple to work. Probly could have it running like a top for lrss then ehat it cost to ship to baileys.
Any thoughts on this 660 that when the piston and jug was changed out that the wrong gasket was installed. Causing lower compression, but still enough to start but not enough to work under a load. Could this be a possibility??
Assuming your gage is good, that could be a problem. If I remember correctly, you have a 54mm NWP top end which is not the best, if the one I examined is typical. You would have been better off with the BB. In any event, if it's really only blowing 100 psi and the cylinder is not scored, you should take that up with Grande Dog.Did place a compression check on it and it was at 100 lbs after five pulls.
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