When good plans go...

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Tree had a slight lean straight away from the camera and was a bit weight loaded to the right. Diameter right at 20" at the falling cuts - that was about chest high due to the co-dominant stem that was there prior.

My brush pile is direct to left.

Figured I could undercut aimed at the brush pile, back cut and wedge.

Worked great up until it was time to wedge. Hammered on the plastic and no go, back in with saw for a touch - pinched it solid.

Inboard clutch - greatest thing ever invented. Power head dropped right off.

Retrieved a metal wedge and sledge and tap, tap, tap, tree goes, it step back several feet. Snap and you see the result.

006.jpg


CSI time. What went wrong? Didn't take a genius. My undercut was way too shallow of an angle. Barberchaired as soon as the undercut closed.

007.jpg


Another shot from the opposite side.

008.jpg


The stub stood back up as when I worked up the tree and cut it free an hour later.

At least it landed right where I wanted and my shorts were still clean.
 
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Y not notch glad you are ok:cheers:

Not sure but there may be a misunderstanding.

There was a full notch - just nowhere near thick enough. About double what I cut would have avoided the barberchair.

If you mentally sstand the bent over portion in the last photo near verticle you can see the narrow notch. Why I didn't see and figure out the probable consequences is a wonder.

Harry K
 
Cutting wood for firewood, I generally use a full, open face notch, first cut at about 70 to horiz, second cut about -20 to horiz, leaving a full 90 for the tree to fall unobstructed by the stump until it gets to the ground.

This looks like what's called a stalled tree? Glad it turned out ok... :cheers:
 
Yup. I try to go with a full 90 degree notch as well. That way the holding wood is controlling the direction of the fall with minimal stress until the notch finally closes. By then the direction is a given, and there is sufficient momentum in the falling tree to avoid getting hung up either in the branches or on the stump and then its no problem for the holding wood to let go.

The only time I deviate from this is if I need the trunk to "roll" against the natural direction of the lean in order to drop it elsewhere. That involves some additional cuts in the notch and cutting the back cut on an angle.

Trust me... I learned this all the hard way. Glad you didn't get hurt; it looks a little funky.
 
The stump closest to the camera, in the 1st two pics looks all ripped out too? Like no wedge cut out?

No, it had a normal wedge cut. Had quite a lean and I didn't cut fast enough to thin the hinge. Too small gauge to do a plunge cut.

This stuff is poor grade Willow and very weak. I rarely get a clean separation. It is a case of being too much of a scotchman. The local Grange wants all the trees out of there so they can fill it in for parking. Rather than see them cut and burn all of it I am salvaging some.

Harry K

Harry K
 
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Questions

What was the angle of the face opening?
(Looks like in the 30 degree range as a guess)

Permission to use photo of closed face as educational?

Thanks

*******************

Anyone else know of problems with willow barner chairing?
 
What was the angle of the face opening?
(Looks like in the 30 degree range as a guess)

Permission to use photo of closed face as educational?

Thanks

*******************

Anyone else know of problems with willow barner chairing?

Angle was, I suspect, closer to 20 degrees. I will be out again in on about Tueday and think I can still find the wedge in the brush pile. If so I'll take a shot and post it.

Yes, I have had incipient barberchairs but my practice has always been to log chain any dubious ones above the falling cuts. Have had several "crack" before the falling cut was complete - gets the old blood pressure up.

Thinking back over the years, I do think I have fallen into a very dangerous habit of cutting thin wedges. That ceased yesterday when I fell the remaining stem from that group and will be reminding myself every time until it becomes habit to cut thick wedges.

Permission granted to use any photos you need.

Harry K
 
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