When is a bar actually worn out?

[OM617YOTA]

Assuming it's properly maintained.

I've read that if you put a straight edge against the bar and a cutter and can rock the cutter over enough to close the gap between the straight edge and the bar, the bar is worn out. By this metric, my bar is toast.

I've also read that if the saw cuts fine and the drive links aren't bottoming out in the groove, you're fine. This describes my situation.

How long do you folks run a bar?

 

[sb47]

Assuming it's properly maintained.

I've read that if you put a straight edge against the bar and a cutter and can rock the cutter over enough to close the gap between the straight edge and the bar, the bar is worn out. By this metric, my bar is toast.

I've also read that if the saw cuts fine and the drive links aren't bottoming out in the groove, you're fine. This describes my situation.

How long do you folks run a bar?

I do the same. I run them till the drive link starts dragging or the sprocket bearings wear out and freeze up. Mine seem to hold up for a long time.

 

[toolmaker]

Bars can last for a very very long time if you maintain them.
If the drive links get too loose (as mentioned above) is on thing to look for.
If the drive links are dragging in the bottom of the groove is another.
If the sprocket goes bad. (but many of them are replaceable)

I have a logger friend that runs a LOT of 25" bars with 84 drive links.
If his cutters pinch the bar once or twice, he throws them in a pile and I get them.

I fix them up and use them. Right now I have 27 of them!!!!!

 

[Ted Jenkins]

In 50 years of wood cutting I have only thrown away one bar. Few people have cut more wood than I have. With that being said it must be understood that I have more than 10 saws that I use. I have a set of saws for every area that I work. I have a 056 with a 24'' bar that has had the end rebuilt and is still going with 3/8'' 063 chain. Or run the 050 chain to 058 chain to 063. I do not think that I have ever seen a worn out bar only damaged. Thanks

 

[OM617YOTA]

I noticed that most of the people saying "if the cutter can rock over X amount, replace your bar" are the ones selling bars.

The ones who actually use the equipment and have to buy their bars say "if it cuts fine, rock and roll."

That answers that.

Thanks folks.

 

[kz1000]

Face it! A bar is warn out when even the fat chicks stop showing up!

 

[OM617YOTA]

Face it! A bar is warn out when even the fat chicks stop showing up!

That being the case, I have never seen a worn out bar.

 

[svk]

I cut until it won’t cut straight any more. If I have the option to jump up to .058 then .063 in that pitch of chain I will.

 

[Huskybill]

My buddy a local dealer that I set up a bar shop machine for saves used bars. The bar shop machine can square the rails and cut the groove deeper.
We can only go so deep in the groove where the mount is. So by staying away from the mount area and working the center of the bar to the nose mainly.

The bar shop machine has a hammer setup for closing the worn bar grooves back to there orginal size. Noisy as hell but it works.

 

[OM617YOTA]

Great info, thanks gents.

 

[Muzzleblastm38]

NICE

 

[svk]

It would be awesome to have a bar shop. I hear most commercial places don’t use one because it’s time consuming and cuts into profit.

 

[kz1000]

I used to cut firewood in northers Arizona. There is a ton of sand in the wood and wears bars fast. I would run ,058 bars til loose then change to 063 chain, after taking out two links on 3/8's I changed to a 404 sprocket to get the last out of the chains.

 

[Bruiser1]

Assuming it's properly maintained.

I've read that if you put a straight edge against the bar and a cutter and can rock the cutter over enough to close the gap between the straight edge and the bar, the bar is worn out. By this metric, my bar is toast.

I've also read that if the saw cuts fine and the drive links aren't bottoming out in the groove, you're fine. This describes my situation.

How long do you folks run a bar?

I think you answered your own question! If your drivers are bottoming out, then your rails are worn down

 

[kz1000]

Some one was a bar salesman that came up with that. There is always a little play or it would over heat. Most people don't grind the edge of the bar smooth and wonder why the sharp chain won't cut.

 

[svk]

I can’t imagine why anyone would trash a bar that cut straight based on how much the chain wiggles back and forth!

 

[Bruiser1]

Just my two cents for what it’s worth. Anybody knows who has anything mechanical that things need maintenance. With that said just like you turn your bar over after every fifth or sixth or whatever file sharpening. You should DRESS your bar and TRUE your rails. Eventually you’re going to lose metal shavings and the Bar will wear out And has to be replaced. I’ve been doing this for years. If you try to add a larger (0.50 0.63)gauge on your drivers just because of the wearing out of the bar you’re asking for trouble. Chain could come off until do a lot of damage not only to yourself But to the saw also

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

I've got a couple bars on my Mac's that have warn so much that the tail is too narrow for the bar pad eg its chewing up the bar plates so.... I'm goin to cut the bar stud slot further and remove some tail to get the wider area back in the bar mount.

I cut the groove deeper with a cut off disk then gently beat the rails back in on an anvil. Use a square and a light to dress the rails up and good to go. These are hard nose bars that get this kinda love. Uneconomic of course but it's only my spare time at lunch n smoko for some therapy

 

[keegantimber]

How many of you use a belt/disc sander to correct uneven rails? Good idea or no? A file seems to take forever?

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

How many of you use a belt/disc sander to correct uneven rails? Good idea or no? A file seems to take forever?

Cut off disk on a 5 inch grinder. Hold it flat so you use the whole side of the disk it's very very smooth. I run the square along and put a pencil mark where 1 rail starts to get higher then keep going until you get to a place where they meet and mark again. Zip zip check zip zip check on and on until its square. Then the cut off disk again for a slight bevel every where its needed.

If the sprocket is a bit warn and the chain is now touching the nose you can carefully lower those rails arouthe nose till the chain is off it again