which new Oregon grinder to get?

[crotchclimber]

I want to get a grinder to sharpen chains for our tree service. I'm thinking volume will be about 15 chains a week. We have an Oregon discount so I think we'll be going with that make. Oregon came out with new models in 2015 so all the threads I could find referenced or recommended models or other makes (i.e. 511ax, Silvey) that are no longer made. Which model in the Oregon lineup would you recommend for the volume we're talking? I don't want to spend all day sharpening chain but I don't know if the more you pay the faster it works or not. Is the hydraulic assist worth it or a gimmick? I've never run a grinder but am getting tired of trying to hand file chains that have been rocked and need a lot of work. We have a big bucket of damaged chains and we need some decent chains for the yard guys to buck with.

 

[Philbert]

There are only 2 full size / full power Oregon in grinders, which is what you want.

For the volume you describe, the hydraulic clamp would be a nice feature, but not a necessity.

The manual clamp grinder is less expensive, and simpler - less likely to have something go wrong.

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/new-oregon-chain-grinders-2015.270287/

Philbert

 

[Mike Kunte]

FWIW, I've been using the 620/240V version for about 2 years now. It was a MASSIVE upgrade from my old Ryobi chain grinder! Here is my take on it:

The GOOD:

1. All the angles you need are available for adjustment.
2. If you set the unit up accurately, it's truly self-centering. This means you don't waste time fudging about between LH and RH cutters. Just swing the vise base around from L to R, and start grinding the other side.
3. FAST! And I don't mean just the actual grinding speed. The biggest waste of time on manual chain vises is loosening and tightening the vise. This hydraulic chain vise is a MAJOR time saver, since the clamping/unclamping happens automatically as you lower/raise the wheel. You will not believe the speed at which you can move when you get into a rhythm. I can go through a 24" chain loop in just over a minute per side! Add 30 seconds setup and you're done with a chain in under 4 minutes. The process is something like this: Setup chain in vise (30 seconds); mark master cutters (L & R) (10 seconds); grind (1-2 seconds - I drop the wheel in twice or three times); raise wheel (0.5 - 1 second); advance chain to stop (2 seconds); rinse & repeat.... swing vise from L to R (4 seconds); go again for the other side...Obviously, for a chain which has been over rocks or in sand, or for an otherwise badly damaged chain, you would go around twice (or even three times) taking smaller "bites" to prevent overheating the cutter. This takes longer...

The BAD:

1. As you may know, the Oregon grinders are made in Italy by Tecomec, and then branded. They can also be found under other names such as Jolly etc. Tolerances on all the clamping bits are a bit sloppy, so you're never quite sure if 60 degrees is 60 degrees..... But at least it's repeatable.....
2. Some users have reported that the hydraulic fluid has leaked out. So far, so good....
3. When grinding the LH cutters, the hydraulic line interferes with the chain vise, which can prevent your chain from stopping in the right place and cause you to cut into the top of the chain. Not a biggie, but it can catch you out if you're not awake!
4. The wimpy little sewing machine light means that good workshop lighting is important. Again, not a biggie. But you should be aware of this. Maybe a little LED light in there?

The UGLY:

1. NOT cheap, but - there is a difference between price and value. And you are really getting value with this purchase. Once you have sharpened using this system, you don't want to go back to other systems.
2. The sintered wheels which are included in the box wear down quite quickly, and need to be dressed frequently. They also leave a slightly roughish finish on the teeth. I bought 2 additional CBN grinding wheels for different sized chains, which last almost indefinitely, and leave a much better surface finish. Not cheap (about $110 apiece from Amazon), but worth every cent. Once again, good value!

I hope this was not too long-winded, and that you will find some of the information valuable!

I have also stopped filing on site, unless absolutely necessary. I keep spare loops on me and change them if required. At night, the loops are sharpened again on the chain grinder. This way I go into the field with better-than-new sharp chains. If you sharpen regularly, you will be amazed at how little metal you remove. This helps your chains last longer.

Good luck with your choice!

Mike

 

[Spring1898]

The hydraulic grinder is a great and efficient machine. I will just add that the hydraulic option is convenient but at 15 chains a week may not be worth paying much additional for unless you get a good deal. I also find it a little annoying when trying to make fine adjustments because every time you bring the arm down to check position it locks the chain, but this is almost all made up for in the time savings the hydraulic clamp.
The design also prohibits the ability to "tilt" the table to get a better gully cut that you would get on the manual clamp. You can slide the table forward and back, but I find true repeatability wanting as the table can shift laterally when adjusting. Basically just keep an eye on both axes when adjusting the table.

The hydraulic fluid can leak out over time (particularly if the unit stored horizontally) but it is very easy to take a 5ml oral syringe to refill. A search will show the thread.

But this is all just nit-picking. Had I paid full price I would have considered the manual grinder but I got a very good deal on the hydraulic used.

 

[Skeans]

A few months back I picked up a super jolly for 325 shipped with 3/4 (11H&11bc) vise parts new on eBay. Having both the standard vises, the hydraulic, then also Silvey grinders it’s nice having the hydraulic for doing the harvester chains at the end of the week where we can do 15 or 20 chains in one sitting.


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