Which saw to get?

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It's been said but I will reiterate, with a sharp chain there's no reason a well maintained saw won't run all day long, even with safety chain.
 
Thanks guys I appreciate all the feedback. I understand a sharp chain gets the job done. But let's be honest. If you have the sharpest chain known to man and you sharpen it after every cut... are you going to want to cut 100 cord of wood with an MS 211 or with something bigger? My point is... I understand yes I need to gain skills and experience, I get it thank you. But also I'm looking to spend some money on a bigger saw that will help me get the job done quicker and easier. I can get the saw back from the shop with a fresh sharpened chain and it still takes a while to fell one 15" tree and cut it up. So with all that aside, assuming I was an experienced user with say 10 years under my belt and was going to spend around $400 to $500 on a new saw... I'm looking in to what is a good option and as I mentioned before based on research I'm leaning towards the ms 271 farm boss.

Also I mentioned I was interested in possibly upgrading my 211 to a thicker gauge chain and some input on that. I couldn't find much about this accept for a YouTube video.

Also I have ordered all PPE, On its way.
 
Thanks for all the input so far. The I talked to the dealer about the ms211 being to small for what I'm doing. They recommended possibly the ms 251. I'm reading hundreds of reviews on different says and I think maybe the best one for me is the ms 271 farm boss. I think it will be a hit heavier than the ms 211 but will allow me to cut the amount of wood I'm looking for.

Is there a benefit to getting the farm boss model over any other? I think the 291 is a bit out of my price range and might be overkill.

If I get the 271 would it make sense to still keep the 211 or trade it in towards the 271?
445
 
I believe you would like the .050 guage chain Stihl has for the 211. I don't have any experience with the 271, but I believe it would fit your budget and make your woodcutting more efficient.
 
I don't believe you have answered what size wood you are into?
 
Thanks rburg I will pick up the 50 guage chain and 14" bar and give that a shot first of all. I was wondering if the 211 was even capable of handling it or if it would cause damage to the saw and I cannot find any data on this online so I guess I'll ask the dealer for their opinion.

Redfin the sizes range from roughly 10" up to abut 24" on average. Occasionally I may need to fell one larger. No particular type of tree it's a wide variety. Most are very much alive I do not have many "dead" trees.
 
In regards to the ms 271 I was going to go with 20" bar. The dealer recommended 18" on this saw. Any opinions on this?
 
If I was going to cut 10+ per year I would definitely want something with a longer bar and more power. The 211 will cut what you are cutting and it will cut all day long. A longer bar will help with delimbing the tree. You won't be hunched over as much so it will help save your back. I have a 170, 251c and 390. The 170 with a 16" bar is great for cutting a small tree with minimal limbs. The 251c with a 18" bar is about all that saw wants when cutting oak and using the entire bar but it still cuts faster than the 170. The 390 with a 20" bar really cuts and is great for taking a larger tree down and cutting the bigger section of trunk. But, throw a 24-25" bar on the 390 and it's great for taking those limbs off the trunk because you're not bending over the whole time. Yes, it's heavier but it's still not as hard on your back. Would I sink the 24" bar into a 24" or larger tree? Sure, but I wouldn't expect it to work like it would with the 20" on it. I would love to just have a 362c with a 25" and the 251C with a 16 or 18" bar if I was planning on cutting 10+ cords per year. The 362 has more power than the 390/391 and it is lighter. I am only cutting about 3 cords per year so I don't really need the upgrade in my opinion.
But, no matter what you go with I would recommend you get a stihl 2 in 1 file for whatever saw/saws you run. Anyone can sharpen a chain with one. They are $40 each but will pay for themselves quickly. Also, eye protection, good gloves and chaps are a must.
 
But, no matter what you go with I would recommend you get a stihl 2 in 1 file for whatever saw/saws you run. Anyone can sharpen a chain with one. They are $40 each but will pay for themselves quickly. Also, eye protection, good gloves and chaps are a must.

pics, info, link? just never heard of it is all... I file freehand.
 
10 full cords of wood per year by a homeowner is a lot of firewood to process. A cord is 128 cubic feet of wood, 4' X 4' X 8'. For personal use in our fireplace here in NY we burn 5 - 7 cords per year as a secondary heat source.

It's more work felling the trees, delimbing the trees and dragging the logs out of the forest to the firewood processing area than it is cutting it, splitting it and stacking it.

My primary saw is a Stihl MS-460, 76.5cc with a 20" bar, 3/8" full chisel chain. This saw has paid for itself ten times over in the amount of wood it has cut. I went to this saw after I wore out a few smaller saws just as a "homeowner".

I have bigger and smaller saws than the 460 but the 460 gets the most use by a wide margin.

If you get a Stihl, get one with a white handle. Orange handle saws will not hold up well if you are processing 10 cords of firewood per year.
 
If you get a Stihl, get one with a white handle.
White rear handle saws are typically the "farm & ranch" saws. The black & white rear handle saws are the professional grade. Except for the orange rear handle MS250 (great saw BTW ... was my first Stihl), all the homeowner saws now have all black handles. The current equivalent to the old MS460 is the MS461 which has a black and white rear handle.
 
Quit dragging your chain to the dealer. You can turn a dull chain into a sharp chain in about 5 minutes. All it takes is a file and the appropriate file guides. Stihl makes a good guide that files both the cutter and the raker at the same time and is easy to use. I personally use a Granberg file-n-joint as a file guide to get consistent sharp chains that are sharper than the OEM chains. Husqvarna sells a decent file guide that is different to both of these but has a good reputation too.
A larger saw will not do anything to get rid of the need to sharpen your chains. I just love my Husky 555 semi-pro saw but I still need to sharpen the chains I use on it.
 
Thanks guys I appreciate all the feedback. I understand a sharp chain gets the job done. But let's be honest. If you have the sharpest chain known to man and you sharpen it after every cut... are you going to want to cut 100 cord of wood with an MS 211 or with something bigger? My point is... I understand yes I need to gain skills and experience, I get it thank you. But also I'm looking to spend some money on a bigger saw that will help me get the job done quicker and easier. I can get the saw back from the shop with a fresh sharpened chain and it still takes a while to fell one 15" tree and cut it up. So with all that aside, assuming I was an experienced user with say 10 years under my belt and was going to spend around $400 to $500 on a new saw... I'm looking in to what is a good option and as I mentioned before based on research I'm leaning towards the ms 271 farm boss.

Also I mentioned I was interested in possibly upgrading my 211 to a thicker gauge chain and some input on that. I couldn't find much about this accept for a YouTube video.

Also I have ordered all PPE, On its way.
A thicker gauge is not the answer. A thicker gauge will give you a wider kerf but it will also need that wider kerf to avoid pinching the chain. The down side to a wider kerf is that it takes a larger engine to remove the chips that result from removing more wood as chips. The reason that so many moderately sized saws use .050 gauge and 3/8 pitch chain is because that is a decent compromise between the strength of the thinnish .050 gauge and the engine size needed to drive it through the wood efficiently. A 60 cc saw should easily meet your needs unless you get crazy cutting big, over 20 inches, trees. For a Stihl that would be something like the 362 and for a Husky a 555 will get you there. Echo, Makita and Dolmar also make saws around that size so shop around and look for the features you want. I like an auto tune so I own a Husky 555 but the Stihl 362 also comes with a comparable arrangement but for some reason they don't call it auto tune. Echo and Dolmar seem to run manual adjustment carbs in that same size so they were not at the top of my list.
 
I cut about 10 cords a year for firewood, mostly hard maple and beech up to 20". 95% of my woof cutting is done with my husky 350 (50cc) with an 18" bar adorned with a non safety full chisel full comp chain. I have many saws that are bigger yet the 50cc gets the most use. I can see where stepping up to a 60cc saw with a 3/8 chain would be faster but it comes with added weight. You notice even a 1-2 pound difference when running saws all day.
 
Thanks everyone for all this awesome input. It really helps a lot. Since starting this thread I have been able to decide on the saw and I will be getting the ms271 and will pick up the Ariens 27 ton splitter as well. I have read hundreds of reviews and I think it will serve me well. Also I have been reading guides and watching videos on how to sharpen my chains. I will also be getting the two in one stihl filer. Also ordered all the safety gear. Thanks again for all the help.
 

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