Who cuts 16" firewood..?

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Swamp Yankee said,
"One word of advice. Whatever length you're selling, miss small. In 30 years of selling wood, nobody has ever complained about a 14 inch piece not fitting in their 16 inch stove. Give them a couple pieces 17 inch and they'll be burning the phone line to you complaining the whole pile of wood you sold them is too long and won't fit in the firebox."
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+1. See my post also. Cut it a little short, not long, and bring some extra pieces to make up for it. Your customers will appreciate that.

Excellent point, there are other sellers here that have long pieces in their piles and when the customers comes to us they mention that fact often.
 
I cut wood 24" if they want custom wood I charge for the extra labor 24" wood is less splitting two rows vrs three 16" so I charge a third more for extra splitting and handling of custom wood. I burn 32" wood optimal but I don't try to sell wood so if I get a call for it I explain the way mine is cut and why it is more work to cut it shorter so inevitably higher priced for shortwood. If I actually wanted to sell my wood I would cut the majority 16" or whatever my customers burn but I really have not pursued it as a business venture.
 
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Give em 16" of hard wood

I cut all to 16". I use a story stick also (cheaper than mingo marker). Everyone gets it that way-16" unless they pre-order custom lengths, which I charge 20% more.
:)
 
nothing bigger than 10 in my stacks

i have a small QF 2100i and i load n/s

Man and I thought I had to cut it small at 12". you must have to load like mad!

Can sometimes get overnighters with my little Aarrow EV7.
 
I sell a good bit of wood myself,and have always cut to 16 inches.Makes the measuring a good bit easier when calculating a cord.I use a mingo marker when I have help,seems that I can hit right on the money but often my help doesnt.
I have one customer that orders his cut to 10 inches, and he pays an additional 75 bucks per cord.I hate wood that short myself.
 
I have a "mid size" stove and I cut mostly at 15"-14" just because is its easier to load and also split by hand. The stove fits 18" but won't fit 20" so I find its better to aim way lower than 18".
I guess if you have alot of customers that customers that use 2' you could save quite a bit of labor but I think epa stoves that fit anything near 2' are rare...
 
8, 12 and 24" is standard here, and 12" by far the most usual. It is also what I prefere for my own use, even thogh 16" will fit.
 
I cut wood 24" if they want custom wood I charge for the extra labor 24" wood is less splitting two rows vrs three 16" so I charge a third more for extra splitting and handling of custom wood. I burn 32" wood optimal but I don't try to sell wood so if I get a call for it I explain the way mine is cut and why it is more work to cut it shorter so inevitably higher priced for shortwood. If I actually wanted to sell my wood I would cut the majority 16" or whatever my customers burn but I really have not pursued it as a business venture.

Yep. I burned in an OWB, and cut 24 inches so we could stack the wood 2 rows wide in the covered cord caddys. The OWB can take longer stuff as well, and there was no need to split anything less than a foot in diameter. Here we cut 16-18 but that's my brother's limit because of the fireplace insert here. We also scrounge a lot of rounds and they are pre-cut to length.

Falling and cutting rounds for customers, I ask them what they want. If they do not know, I just cut to 18 inches.
 
16" is pretty standard around here as already noted. My stove will take 18s but I prefer 16s.

I buck mostly with my 261 and 210, so I just use the bar length as a guide.
 
18" for me & 16 to sell

I use the bar length also or I made a small s chain with nails welded on both ends, for when I got the 32" bar on , I just go down the log and scratch a mark where you want to cut, then remember to but it your pocket.
 
God i want a mingo marker. im stuck with a tape measure that i spray paint over...you should see how much paint build i've got on that!

i cut my logs into 16 inchers.


Carry a stick. That is what I do. You can mark it out real easy as you move to the next cut.

Scott
 
I do bundles ,16"s here (take a piece of OSB) 3" wide X 64" long drill a 1
,1/2" hole every 16" (Paddle bit) can of RED spray paint (no mingo marker necessary) mark logs move the jig away from cutting area(saw chips will stick to it,for smaller stuff i have a 16" 2x4.
Ends too small I burn anything that doesn't split right is cord wood (crotches etc.)
Not as small as a Mingo ,but when i cut wood in lengths
#1 I had to get there with my truck and saws
#2 I don't cut anything i can't haul out that day (unless it's too big for a homeowner thief) to haul.)
#3 Sharpen your chain ,fill gas, oil until paint dries (saw chips stick to paint)
#4 Bring a broom to brush saw chips off the logs (in a pinch i have used an ice scraper brush)Red/Green paint seems easier to see.
#5 Paint will build up in the holes of the jig if you use it alot (a pocket knife will get rid you of that.)
#6 If the log is bent spray it from the side
#7 I need to go fishin'!!!
# 8 If you need longer length's do the math
I get uniform cuts on average from my simple A$$ jig. i don't even use my saw buck unless small branches
Hope this helps anyone.
Mark
 
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mingo's are nice but i got fed up with it , i now use a big ty-wrap on the wrap around cut to lenght from the bar, folds out of the way when not needed; slick and cheap to replace...
alain
 
Hi MNGuns ,

I only cut for myself , my bar is 18" , so I also use it as a reference , 18"
here ... :)

Later,x595
 

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