Who starts their saws with the chainbreak off?

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sawn_penn

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I took a new saw to a service agent with some problems. It doesn't start with the chainbreak on, and the chain runs at idle with the chainbreak off (in fact, the chain moves as you crank the saw over, even before the engine starts!)

Anyway, the service guy insists that saws should be started with the chainbreak off.

Does anyone start their saw with the chainbreak off?

:confused:
 
sawn_penn said:
.... Does anyone start their saw with the chainbreak off?
Yes, most of the time - in fact I don't know anyone who habitually start with the brake on, even though most newer user manuals tell you to put it on.
I only put it on if there is a chance that the chain hits brush, grass, etc during the starting process, as I think use of the brake adds stress to the starting process, having to hit the throttle ASAP to avoid unnecessary wear.

If you use the choke or high idle positions when starting, the chain should run as the saw starts, but it should stop as soon as you hit the throttle to bring it down to normal idle.
If the saw is warm, and started without choke or high idle (just in the "on" position), the chain should not run when it starts if the idle is correctly adjusted.
sawn_penn said:
....(in fact, the chain moves as you crank the saw over, even before the engine starts!)...
The chain should not move before the engine starts - something is wrong, but I do not know what it could be. Maybe an issue with the cluch??
 
Last edited:
SawTroll said:
Yes, most of the time - in fact I don't know anyone who habitually start with the brake on, even though most newer user manuals tell you to put it on.
I only put it on if there is a chance that the chain hits brush, grass, etc during the starting process, as I think use of the brake adds stress to the starting process, having to hit the throttle ASAP to avoid unnecessary wear.
QUOTE]

ditto that.
 
I always start it with the break on, infact i tell people off for starting it with the break off. In our NPTC chainsaw unit we were told to "follow the manufactors starting instructions" however they did add the old STIHLs recommend that you do it with the break off. Apparently its one of the only cases where best practice ignors the manufactors guidelines.

I feel its dangerous to do it if you start it and your hand slips for some reason or the saw slips on the floor your going to be in a much worse situation than if you start it with a break on. Only reason i can see for doing it with the break off is to avoid wear to the clutch/break.
 
Sawn, That saw either needs new clutch springs or had a seized clutch bearing. There IS a problem with the clutch.
 
Not using the brake when using the choke/fast idle, is just plain unsafe.
You're not going to hurt the clutch at all for the short time before you blip the trigger.
If the chain is turning as you pull the starter cord, you have a problem. Bring the saw to a mechanic ( who starts the saw with the brake on !!! )
 
Mr_Brushcutter said:
... I feel its dangerous to do it if you start it and your hand slips for some reason or the saw slips on the floor your going to be in a much worse situation than if you start it with a break on. ....
Ground starting is something I seldom do, but if there is a brake on the saw it is usually on when doing it.
It is a lot easier to hit something with the chain on the ground than in the air.
 
sawn_penn said:
I took a new saw to a service agent with some problems. It doesn't start with the chainbreak on, and the chain runs at idle with the chainbreak off (in fact, the chain moves as you crank the saw over, even before the engine starts!)

Anyway, the service guy insists that saws should be started with the chainbreak off.

Does anyone start their saw with the chainbreak off?

:confused:

It does sound like you have clutch issues.

I guess I never start a saw with the chainbrake applied. I don't know any body around here that does either. I'm not advocating one way or the other just saying what I do.
 
There is a problem with not only your clutch, but your mechanic!
His advice and knowledge are both lacking!
For those of you who don't use the brake, you should give it a try. It's a handy tool that can make your life safer. Once you use it habitually, it won't cost you any time or trouble. It's especially useful with the longer bars.
Lot's of people are injured with their saws, during the starting process.
 
What Sedanman said.
When the chain turns when starting, the clutch is engaged ,due most often to a broken clutch spring. A saw put away wet can rust and seize the clutch bearing causing the same symptom, but I have only seen this once.
Occasionaly the bearing will totaly disappear when the retaining clip takes a vacation and you get strange echoing drumlike eminations from the PTO side of your Muckaluck :blob2: However this has only happened to me a few times, most noteably on an 088 and a 2171
John
 
I never start with the chain break on. I worked for a guy that told me it would prematurely wear the clutch. I also drop start my saws. Am I going to destroy them by doing this? I have been doing it this way for 10 years and I only ever tore one starter cord and that cord was worn.
Rob
 
I do not apply the chain brake before starting any saw. In the few cases where its been engaged (accidentally) on some saw I'm repairing, its more of a frustration when it does start and I go to hit the throttle. Rjh245, you are not going to harm the saw at all by drop starting (unless you drop it on the ground:D ). I frequently start saws in that fashion myself. As for your comment Mike Mass, "Lots of people are injured with their saws, during the starting process.", what proof do you have of that? I've never heard of a single soul that was hurt while starting a saw, other than perhaps a sore wrist from kickback. That sounds like the kind of statement a group of safety lawyers puts in owners manuals to protect the company from nuisance lawsuits. The only case I can imagine where starting with the brake on may be of benefit would be for climbers way up in the tree.
 
I tell and demonstrate to everyone to start the saw with the brake on, but I don't myself... I always drop-start my saws unless dead cold, something else I don't tell people to do.

It all comes down to experience with your own saws. If you're new the game or just an occasional user, do it by the book. If you're comfortable with your equipment, and in a safe situation with PPE, do what is best for you.

Why don't I apply the brake? - high idle starting definitely impacts the life of the clutch drum.

The chain rotating while pulling over - the other replies are correct... fix it.
 
I have a question about resetting the brake to off. I have a lot more hours on saws without than with a chain break and I find it very clumsy to reset. What is the procedure. With a glove on there is not room enough between your hand and the trip lever to be able to reset. I have to fumble my left hand over and down near the rewind and then force the brake lever back to release position and then fumble my left hand back up to the top of the handle. It sure does not encourage me to ever engage it every start. Only in real tight quarters will I use it to start.
 
OK, I'll say it too, your clutch is messed up. Find a dealer that knows what he's talking about, or if you're any good with a wrench, you could try it yourself. They're really simple to work on and change out.

For starting without the brake, on the ground I do. In a tree, I ALWAYS use the chainbrake. On a larger saw like my 660 and a larger bar, I'll set it on a stump to start it. All that weight and bar length on a drop start, no matter how strong a dude is, is recipe for somthing happening.

Jeff
 
Crofter said:
I have a question about resetting the brake to off. I have a lot more hours on saws without than with a chain break and I find it very clumsy to reset. What is the procedure. With a glove on there is not room enough between your hand and the trip lever to be able to reset. I have to fumble my left hand over and down near the rewind and then force the brake lever back to release position and then fumble my left hand back up to the top of the handle. It sure does not encourage me to ever engage it every start. Only in real tight quarters will I use it to start.

Frank,
What kind of saw do you have? A chainbrake should reset easily with whatever hand you have on the handlebar. Not to be a smart guy, but, take your hand off the handlebar, pull the brake flag back 'till it clicks, resume sawing. Am I missing something?

Jeff
 
I never use the chainbrake during starting, and I almost always drop start. Its the easiest way for me to start the saw and I dont want to wear out the chainbrake.
 
One of my many bad habits I guess, but the only time I ever use the chain brake is when I am walking with the saw at idle. It would also be a good idea if the saw is cold and you are starting in a brushy area where there is a chance the bar might hit something...then you will get hurt. I never started my small stihls with the brake on, but when I bought my 390 I was sufficiently afraid of it to use the brake at first cause the manual said so...but now I just am careful of brush..I don't like replacing clutches. On the other hand I never start my saw in choke or high idle once it is warm just on a cold start. If everything is well tuned it will pop right of on the first hit.
J.D.
 
Sawn,

What model saw do you have? I'm sure if you post that here you can get some detailed troubleshooting information on what to look at. Probably even a picture or two.

Regarding the brake, I was afraid to read this thread at first because I virtually never use the brake and was afraid of being flayed alive for mentioning it. Good to see so many others use personal logic here too. About the only time I will use it is if I am up in a tree with a smaller saw.
 
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