Why do people cut like this??

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I did a chipping job that the homeowner did all the cutting , every tree was cut like that with the tall side on the side that you wouldn't want the tree to fall so I just figured the theory is the tree can't fall that way against the wood :dizzy: .

:cheers:
I don't really remember why , but I did that some when learning with the idea it would help the tree go the other way. I did learn though that once in a while the butt end would be pushed off the stump kinda sliding down the ramped angle when the weight of the tree dropped to contact the angle. Basically the tree would still be mostly upright , the but slides off the stump (usually, but not always when wedging ) and the tree usually falls the wrong direction rapidly. If your saw happens to be in the cut, its at the mercy of the tree and you better figure and scoot in the right direction very quickly or you just may only have God's mercy for hope. Its a very reckless situation when it gets to that.
That said with very small trees that I need to get a wedge behind and there isn't't enough area to put it behind the straight cut , I can gain that area by using an angle cut like that, but I try to keep enough holding wood such it cant slide off the stump. Wood in young healthy trees is more predictable and the weight of this size tree is more predictable and manageable. I don't recommend doing it because it is still dangerous , but the risk with larger trees is very great IMO. I'm referring to hardwood species,conifers might be worse.
So if any body here cuts like that , go back a learn the right way. Chainsaw owners manuals and the Internet have information on doing it right which is very much safer , but still dangerous.
 
Just plain old inexperience imo , I have made slight downward slopes
because; I hit a nail on one side making the saw cut crooked! That
however was purposeful which is different and even though I should
have stopped and sharpened the saw, I was not cutting for timber!
 
Not sure why, but stumps like that are everywhere.

My $0.02 cents worth...

Ain't that the truth! I see them everywhere out here, even in areas that are being cut the 2nd or 3rd time. Many 10-100 year old stumps have sloped back cuts. More common here are the one-plane sloped cuts as well.
 
After thinking about this awhile.... When a tree leans back, a fulcrum is created where the sides of the back cut touch. The tree then acts as a lever against the fulcrum, pulling on the hingewood. A sloped cut raises the fulcrum and the force exerted on the hinge would be more sideways against the hinge and towards the notch.

With a level back cut and lower fulcrum, wouldn't the tree leaning back create more lifting force on the hingewood and therefore be more apt to pull upwards on the hinge, making it more likely for the tree to break off and fall? I really believe any difference would be minimal and any gains may be offset by other hazards created - like the force of the tree breaking off the wood below the sloped backcut.
 
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George A. Finn III from expertvillage.com must have fell that tree.

That can't be. Not in any one of his video's have I seen him ever...ever fell a tree!:confused: :chainsaw:

I stand corrected.... I searched some more! I Posted before I got to page 2.... Now I'm scared.
 
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After thinking about this awhile.... When a tree leans back, a fulcrum is created where the sides of the back cut touch. The tree then acts as a lever against the fulcrum, pulling on the hingewood. A sloped cut raises the fulcrum and the force exerted on the hinge would be more sideways against the hinge and towards the notch.

With a level back cut and lower fulcrum, wouldn't the tree leaning back create more lifting force on the hingewood and therefore be more apt to pull upwards on the hinge, making it more likely for the tree to break off and fall? I really believe any difference would be minimal and any gains may be offset by other hazards created - like the force of the tree breaking off the wood below the sloped backcut.

You're assuming that the two sides of the backcut are somehow touching. If they are the tree has already set back and you're screwed any way you look at it.
The back cut should not close up and all you've done is make an ugly stump and an even uglier stump shot to buck off the butt log.
 
wouldent cutting like this also take you all day, cutting down at an angle like that makes your saw shoot powder it and it takes forever to cut. even if somehow this worked the way people think it does it would not be efficient to cut that way.
 
You're assuming that the two sides of the backcut are somehow touching. If they are the tree has already set back and you're screwed any way you look at it.
The back cut should not close up and all you've done is make an ugly stump and an even uglier stump shot to buck off the butt log.

True - but that's my point. Assuming they already don't know what they're doing, is it better to be screwed by having your saw stuck or be screwed by having your saw stuck, running like He!! to avoid the tree, then returning to see your saw crushed. I'm not defending the cut, just trying to suggest the reasoning behind it, however flawed. I think any gain from this cut would be minimal and gives a false sense of security.
 
There are no gains to be had..



I think mabe way back when saws weighed as much as there owners, the back cut was sloped to let gravity help in cutting.. just a guess
 
For whatever reason someone uses that angled backcut ( U tube or seeing someone else use it), you can bet that they are only felling trees with a favorable lean. With a fav. lean, you could even use a reverse angle backcut and it would still go " right where I wanted it". Would'nt that make a nice looking log.
 
To waste time? Energy?? Or just plain stupid. Or am I missing something?
Is there any reason to make the felling cut this way???? I don't.
001-3.jpg

Come on guy's. Can't you see the tennon sticking up from that stump?
You would make a cut like this only if you were replacing the tree with another of same size & shape.
Cut a mortise in the bottom of the new tree, and match the angled back cut. That way you can drill through the piece sticking up in the back, and drive green wooden peg's through the tennon to hold the tree until it graft's itself to the stump. No replanting.














Well, it sounded good when I was typing. That's the only reason I can think of for a stump like that.:cheers:

Andy
 
Come on guy's. Can't you see the tennon sticking up from that stump?
You would make a cut like this only if you were replacing the tree with another of same size & shape.
Cut a mortise in the bottom of the new tree, and match the angled back cut. That way you can drill through the piece sticking up in the back, and drive green wooden peg's through the tennon to hold the tree until it graft's itself to the stump. No replanting.

Well, it sounded good when I was typing. That's the only reason I can think of for a stump like that.:cheers:

Andy

+1 for thinking outside the box .


:cheers:
 

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