Wide Pitch Pine

[StihlBoy440]

I have just bought a 36" Alaskan and setting it up with a 42"bar on a 394xp. I was out hiking the other day and ran across a huge Pitch Pine that had just blown over. I went back and took some measurements and the tree is right 96" around 14' up, so this got me thinking a little. I have in my head an idea to cut the boards full width and about 2-3" thick and use them for tables and counter tops.

Question is, how do I dry the lumber to prevent curling/warping and extreme checking/splitting? My thinking at the moment is to stack it back like it was before sawing using 1/2" PVC stickers.

Do I need to dry them inside or outside or would kiln drying them be the best?

I am looking for all the input I can get!

 

[excess650]

Stack them with stickers. Outside drying is fine provided you keep it covered, and seal the ends to help prevent the checking.

I happen to like live edge slab tables myself. We had the vanity tops in our new house cut from slabs of redwood, sinks sunk in, finished with spar urethane.

 

[820wards]

I have just bought a 36" Alaskan and setting it up with a 42"bar on a 394xp. I was out hiking the other day and ran across a huge Pitch Pine that had just blown over. I went back and took some measurements and the tree is right 96" around 14' up, so this got me thinking a little. I have in my head an idea to cut the boards full width and about 2-3" thick and use them for tables and counter tops.

Question is, how do I dry the lumber to prevent curling/warping and extreme checking/splitting? My thinking at the moment is to stack it back like it was before sawing using 1/2" PVC stickers.

Do I need to dry them inside or outside or would kiln drying them be the best?

I am looking for all the input I can get!

If you can deal with 3" slabs, I would mill that pine at 3". You can always re-mill the slabs thinner after they have dried. I would also mill a minimum of 1" on either side of the pith for that slab and then split that slab down the middle into two pieces. It will check and warp on the pith for sure.

jerry-

 

[StihlBoy440]

Thanks for the replies!

Questions: What are you referring to when you say Pith?

Do you think I will have any problem with using PVC for my stickers? I just thought it would put less surface area on the
slabs and let more air in, plus I got plenty of it!

Would I be better to cut the slab down the middle(through the heart) to keep it from splitting? I want the wide boards if
I can, but in the end I do atleast want useable lumber.

 

[820wards]

Thanks for the replies!

Questions: What are you referring to when you say Pith?

The pith is the very center of the tree or of a big limb.

Do you think I will have any problem with using PVC for my stickers? I just thought it would put less surface area on the slabs and let more air in, plus I got plenty of it!

I've never tried pvc as stickers. Only way to know is to try. I would be concerned that the weight of the slabs on the bottom set of stickers would crush the pvc especially in the winter months when things freeze. Then there is the hazard of the slabs rolling off the pvc, kids etc.

Would I be better to cut the slab down the middle(through the heart) to keep it from splitting? I want the wide boards if I can, but in the end I do at least want useable lumber.

Look at the end of your log as a target with the bulls eye being the pith. Now, mill your slabs at whatever thickness you want (I mill slabs at 3") until you are 1" above the pith, then mill your next slab cut to 1" below the pith. That slab thickness will be dependent on the diameter of the pith. Continue to mill your remaining log at the thickness you milled the top portion of the log until you have as many slabs as you can do.

Now for that center slab with the pith. If you have a mini-mill you can easily cut the center pith out of the slab, you could free hand cut it to. The two pieces you cut will be true quarter-saw lumber (good stuff!) and you still have the live edge on each piece that you can use for making legs, etc. The pith will make nice firewood.

Hope this helps,
jerry-

 

[StihlBoy440]

I understand now, I have always called Pith the "Heart" of the tree. I to am wondering about the PVC rolling, even though I dont have kids and I plan to strap it pretty tight once I get the stickers installed.

I was looking through Baileys and they sale End Sealer, is there stuff pretty good or is there a cheaper or better alternative?

I cant wait to get everything together and start sawing this big pretty tree up!

 

[820wards]

I was looking through Baileys and they sale End Sealer, is there stuff pretty good or is there a cheaper or better alternative?

Their product works good. I have also had pretty good luck with Kilz oil base primer. For small applications I have found that thinned yellow wood glue work quite well for sealing the ends of smaller slabs.

I cant wait to get everything together and start sawing this big pretty tree up!

Hey guys, he's hooked.... He'll be milling logs in his sleep.

Have fun, be safe, and post some pic's of what you mill.

jerry-

 

[discounthunter]

pvc will not handle the weight of those slabs. just rip a bunch of white wood such as 1x4's. end seal,use left over latex paint. next measure diameter not circumference.



good lick and have fun. you should get alot of wood from that tree.

 

[StihlBoy440]

I figured by dividing by 3.14 that I should be looking at a 30" diameter log, that of course is 14' up from the stump, close as I could get because rest was marred up in the ground.

As soon as I get my saw together and purchase a 42" bar and chain, I will cut the stump off and let it hopefully fall back in the "crater" it made. I will post plenty of action pics!

 

[Daninvan]

Don't forget that with a 42" bar you will probably get under 38" of cut width on a mill. Sounds like you are milling towards the narrow part of the log so should not be a problem.

Also, 14' is pretty long, I know that something that big would be way too large for my house. You could still mill it full length and cut it down later to a more suitable size of course.

I have found with many softwoods, and I have not milled pitch pine so this may not hold (but I am guessing based on the name that it does!) that even after air drying for a couple years and then putting in a kiln that goes to 125F the resin does not set. These things can leak pitch/resin/sap forever unless they are kilned at higher temps.

I would also not use PVC, I'd use some nice dry stickers as others have suggested. I would worry about the PVC causing moisture buildup around them at the start of the drying process while the wood is very wet, and giving you some staining.

 

[StihlBoy440]

I want be cutting it 14', that's just the closest place I could get a tape measure around. I plan to cut everything 10'6" or so.

Its killing me waiting on parts to finish up my 394, parts should be here today and I can get her running tomorrow.

I just ordered the 42" Power Match bar, a 25' roll of Woodland Pro ripping chain. I should be making slabs soon now!

 

[excess650]

update?