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Want to Buy Widenose bars

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Im looking for 28" and 30" only. 3/8 pitch those are the only sizes I need. Id be interested in atleast 4 of each size maybe more. The way that we cut is to bore in at or below ground level and cut out the whole center of the tree but never punch all the way through. The wide nose bars dont seem to jump around in the cut as bad and the bar noses seem to be alittle long lived
 
Yes wide nose do bore cut easier . It’s been said they cut faster also but I’m not so sure about that . Not as safe :rock:..... haha all things considered I like them better and pick them up when I can . That said I have a large mount 30” stihl wise bar from when I had my 880 . It’s newish but .404. I converted a medium mount bar to .404 and still have the 3/8 tip just needs to be riveted on . Willing to sell if you are interested
 
Yes wide nose do bore cut easier . It’s been said they cut faster also but I’m not so sure about that . Not as safe :rock:..... haha all things considered I like them better and pick them up when I can . That said I have a large mount 30” stihl wise bar from when I had my 880 . It’s newish but .404. I converted a medium mount bar to .404 and still have the 3/8 tip just needs to be riveted on . Willing to sell if you are interested
I appreciate your offer, however, Its hard for me to spend much on a used bar without seeing it person and I dont want to insult you with a "feel safe price". Thanks anyway. Be safe, have fun.
 
Im looking for 28" and 30" only. 3/8 pitch those are the only sizes I need. Id be interested in atleast 4 of each size maybe more. The way that we cut is to bore in at or below ground level and cut out the whole center of the tree but never punch all the way through. The wide nose bars dont seem to jump around in the cut as bad and the bar noses seem to be alittle long lived
What are you cutting like that and why? Just curious...
 
Walnut trees that were bought standing. We get every inch of usable log if there's anything to gain. When the tree falls the butt is already rounded off and looking nice like the buyers want. When its done right no wood is pulled from any of the heart or the sap. They stack nice on the log trucks too.
 
This is the only picture I could get to upload and its not the best pic. You can see a few of the butt logs though and how they are rounded off with no wood fibers pulled so the logs bring top dollar.
 

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I'll look in my shop as I may have a newish widenose Stihl bar. I was "saving" it for myself but at this point the cash would be more useful to me than a bar hanging on the wall.
 
So do you limb or top them before they're felled?

Most trees we don't top out because they can be made to land in a manner that they won't break up too bad. If it's a really large tree with a long straight trunk and a big wide crotch up high, then yes. I strap on the climbing gear and take the top out of the tree.
 
I've never cut trees for timber. Most of what I cut has a highest end use of firewood and a lot of it just gets chipped or burned in a pile. High value timber is a world I'm not familiar with. Any topping/trimming I do up in a tree is because it won't "fit" where it needs to fall. About 99% of my cutting is residential tree removal.
 
Yes we is 3/8 on everything but if someone had some 404 bars that they wanted to get rid of cheap I could always switch the nose over to 3/8
 
I have a few new OEM Stihl widenose tips if you're interested?

Are you running 3/8 on everything?[/E]

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How much for a tip? I have a 25" bar with a bad tip that I haven't fixed because I haven't found a tip for a price reasonable enough to make it worth putting the bar back in service.
 

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