Wood Heating Do's and Don'ts

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Hedge

ArboristSite Member
Joined
Dec 22, 2007
Messages
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Location
Nebraska
I have been reading about all the splitter, stoves and saws that have been sold lately. Got me to thinking that the next big thing that the rest of us will have to deal with is inexperienced folks causing a ruckus in neighbor hoods that will lead to more ordinances and laws that we really don't need. Got me to thinking if we came up with say a top 10-20 things list that need to be considered/followed in cutting, storing, and burning wood could help in a big way to heading off such problems. Not sure where to start but I'm sure some of you have dealt with such things and have just such ideas. Maybe even the ones who sell splitters, saws and stoves could print up a sheet and hand it out to everyone who purchases one of the above to help out. So fire away...:cheers:
 
If you have neighbors nearby, try to run your saws and splitters between the hours of 7am and 8pm.
 
Make sure you have a large HOT/Safe zone around your wood stove.
Hot embers can and do pop back out... this is where fireplace inserts with it's hearth has the advantage.

Always place a CO meter close by to monitor carbon monoxide.

figure out your path to bring wood in from outside and to process. this is where OWB's have a wood handling advantage, but you will be warm inside feeding the fire. VS OWB folks need to make a trip outside in the snow.

Burn dry wood if at all possible. find the longest burning woods for your area and focus on getting that type wood. stay away from low value wood if at all possible.

after your first season... you've got no excuse for not stock piling enough dry wood for at least two+ seasons.
 
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Burn dry wood and don't tell your neighbors how small your gas bill was!
I wish I had taken this advise. During conversation I mentioned to my neighbor that my electric bill in the winter is less than a 100 bucks. Next thing you know he installed a wood stove and began burning all the rotten oak he has laying around his woods. Now our place always stinks of burning rotten wood.
I am almost to the point of giving him some good wood so that I dont have to smell the stench.
:cry:
 
I know the feeling I am in a neighborhood full of smoke dragon stoves and many burn garbage being too cheap to pay $15 a month for service. Unfortunately, there is nothing you can do but grin and bear it. At least I don't have to worry about hanging clothes on a clothesline here.
 
The first thoughts that come to mind are: 1) Learn to harvest wood in a safe and responsible manner. 2) When burning wood in your stove dont cut the draft all the way down before the fire gets going. (this seems to be to hardest thing for people to understand -in my observation anyway. Every time I go into town on a winter morning or evening I am met with the heavy smell and sight of smoldering wood fires from people who have started their stoves, set the draft controls to almost shut and left their fires to choke. It is inefficient and dangerous.

Just a couple of issues at the top of my mind.
 
Tossing some epsom salts in your wood burning appliance will reduce your creosote buildup.
 
Burn dry wood and don't tell your neighbors how small your gas bill was!
That also means don't burn green wood, don't make fun of your neighbor's huge fuel oil or electric heating bill if he tells you what it is, and don't brag about how low yours is. He may not like the smoke from your chimney anymore than he likes paying his fuel bill.
 
Make sure you have a large HOT/Safe zone around your wood stove.
Hot embers can and do pop back out... this is where fireplace inserts with it's hearth has the advantage.

If your woodstove is installed with the 18" non-combustible clearance, per code, you the same boat as the insert (assuming the insert also has the 18" clearance

Always place a CO meter close by to monitor carbon monoxide.

figure out your path to bring wood in from outside and to process. this is where OWB's have a wood handling advantage, but you will be warm inside feeding the fire. VS OWB folks need to make a trip outside in the snow.

Burn dry wood if at all possible. find the longest burning woods for your area and focus on getting that type wood. stay away from low value wood if at all possible.
Wood is wood as long as it is properly seasoned. The only advantage of longer burning woods is less reloading.

after your first season... you've got no excuse for not stock piling enough dry wood for at least two+ seasons.

:agree2: but I had to correct/clarify.
 
ok.. thanks for clarifying..

most fireplaces have a decent size hearth made out of brick and/or rock. that's a natural non-burnable zone surrounding your insert.

sure all wood have the same BTU per lb... oak will burn much longer than say .. pine. if given a choice which would you use?

don't get me wrong, some folks only get access to pine. so that's what they burn and are darn glad to get it.

:agree2: but I had to correct/clarify.
 
:agree2: but I had to correct/clarify.

I've got 28 inches of non combustibles, left the door open for ambience, took a shower (foolish to leave it unattended!!!!!!!!) came back to a 1.5 inch smolder-hole throught the carpet and under pad 40 inches away!!!
God was watching!
 
Tossing some epsom salts in your wood burning appliance will reduce your creosote buildup.

Please correct me if I am wrong. I thought that burning salt in your stove will wreck your stainless steel chimney pipe.

Best way I've ever seen to eliminate creosote buildup is to crank up the stove once every few days. I have not ever had to clean a chimney doing this. And YES I do periodically check for buildup.
 
Do what works for you. My chimney is not stainless steel, I follow safe/sensible burning practices.:cheers:
 
If installing a new woodstove, DO get a building permit and install the stove and chimney to code. Get the work inspected and passed.

DO have a fire extinguisher in the room with woodstove, install smoke detectors in bedrooms and bedroom hallways, and CO detectors between woodstove and bedrooms.

Then DO call your insurance company and tell them you have installed a woodstove and want it added to your policy. They will come out, inspect, want to see the passed building permit, and might take pictures for their underwriters. The insurance person will be pleased to see the fire extinguisher, smoke detectors, and co detectors. They will then "add" woodstove coverage to your policy and you will then be covered for fire resulting from the woodstove. (But since it was installed to code, fire would be very unlikely - which is why they are now happy to cover you!)

If you don't install to code and pass inspection, the insurance company will not cover you. And if you don't get the woodstove added to your policy and there is a fire resulting from the woodstove, the insurance company does not have to pay a nickel!
 

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