wood spitter pump problem

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scottm1

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This is my first post. I found this site while searching for wood splitter pump troubleshooting. I was hoping someone might be knowledgeable in this area. .........What could cause the second stage of a wood splitter pump to suddenly stop workng? It is a new 16 gpm Barnes pump. The ram goes in and out just fine, but will only produce about 500 psi (I have a gauge just before the valve)and seems that it is just failing to go into the second stage once contact is made with the log. I have adjusted everything on the valve, but no changes. The engine does not bog down under load either. When I block off the line coming from the pump to the valve, it just holds 500 psi and the engine continues to run. Shouldn't the engine die with the flow completely blocked off if the pump is working properly? Is there a spring or a valve that could suddenly snap or break that would make this happen? Where can a person get a parts breakdown or service manueal for this pump? Thanks

Scott:help:
 
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If you have tinkered with the offload valve (sets pressure that the second stage kicks in) and have found no discernible difference, look next at the piston. It is likely to be leaking by inside, simply worn out. Mine was.
I checked by putting on another "good" pump, with no change in the splitting power. Replaced the piston with a new Prince from Northern Tool, and presto change-o, it splits anything.
If you have access to a working pump, change it over and see what happens.

Rarely, the pump can suck air and foams the hydro fluid up to the point that it won't hardly work...check all fittings and the hydro fluid level. Pay close attention to the "intake" side of the pump...my Barnes pump has a "press fit" fitting on the intake, and it comes loose all the time..a real pain...no threads at all..never saw nothing like it. Mine is a 13.5 GPM.

Good luck.
 
With a 2-stage pump both section are always moving fluid but when pressure meets a preset limit the high volume section starts to bypass sending fluid back to the suction side of the pump. The high pressure section pumps fluid to the outlet all the time. There is a possibility that the gear in the high pressure section of the pump has detached from the common input shaft that is shared by both gears.

Both sections of the pump share the same inlet and outlet but there is a check valve where the high volume section enters the high pressure section. This check could be damaged allowing fluid to return to the inlet.

You said the pump is new and with no fluid returning to the tank pressure will not exceed 500 psi.. This would usually indicate a defective pump.
 
I agree with triptester 100%, and also check so your Lovejoy coupling between engine and pump shaft, have all the keys, and is not slipping......
 
This is my first post. I found this site while searching for wood splitter pump troubleshooting. I was hoping someone might be knowledgeable in this area. .........What could cause the second stage of a wood splitter pump to suddenly stop workng? It is a new 16 gpm Barnes pump. The ram goes in and out just fine, but will only produce about 500 psi (I have a gauge just before the valve)and seems that it is just failing to go into the second stage once contact is made with the log. I have adjusted everything on the valve, but no changes. The engine does not bog down under load either. When I block off the line coming from the pump to the valve, it just holds 500 psi and the engine continues to run. Shouldn't the engine die with the flow completely blocked off if the pump is working properly? Is there a spring or a valve that could suddenly snap or break that would make this happen? Where can a person get a parts breakdown or service manueal for this pump? Thanks

Scott:help:
The enginge should stall with a completely blocked line and the pressure should shoot way up. That sure sounds like the pump or coupling has failed.
I'd check for a sheared keyway in the lovejoy coupling first. A new pump should have a warrantee, that would be the next step.
 
Beware when attempting to test a hydraulic pump by running it with a completely sealed off discharge without a relief. The sudden surge of pressure could damage the pump or a hose causing injury or death.
 
Beware when attempting to test a hydraulic pump by running it with a completely sealed off discharge without a relief. The sudden surge of pressure could damage the pump or a hose causing injury or death.

at work I took a 4000psi spray across the chest when a 1/4" hose blew going to a gauge, Where the spray went across my chest left a welt just like being hit with a whip, but the hose never touched me, just the oil.
 
the keys in the lovejoy couplings are both in place and not slipping. I didn't block the line until I suspected there was no pressure being put out by the pump, and even then I was very cautious when turning the engine over after blocking the line off. What has me confused is that this is the second pump I have put on and both put out no high pressure in the second stage. I know this is very unlikely, but I think I just got 2 bad pumps in a row.
 
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I'm with the bypassing cylinder piston theory or a faulty hydraulic relief valve in the control valve limiting your pressure too low to kick the pump down out of the high volume mode.

If you stall the ram, remove the line that retracts the cylinder and see if any flow is coming out of the cylinder when you try to extend. There should be none.
If no oil come out, then check the max pressure during this process.
If it is low try adjusting the relief setting on the control valve and see if the pressures rises.
It could be a broken spring on the relief. If the pressure won't increase then its like your pump.
Ken
 
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extend your ram all the way and pull the line off the end that you ran the cylinder to. Now apply pressure to the other side. If you get fluid your seals are leaking. Just put the hose back on before retracting.....
 

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