Wood Splitter Building Questions.

[Bill Jones]

I have a few questions concerning building a log splitter for home use. I have used the units from Lowe’s, Northern Tool, and a few homemade ones. I currently use a bushhog brand on the back of the tractor, but do not really like using it. With that said, I have decided to fabricate my own engine powered log splitter with help from my brother.

I have a pretty good start on the parts. I found a guy who started to build one a few years ago and gave up on it due to health reasons. He had a 28 gpm Haldex pump, a 5 ½” bore cylinder with a 3” rod and 32” stroke, the valves, 30 gallon tank, etc. He said he was going to build a “showcase” splitter as he called it. Also included in the deal was a W10 x 54 beam and a snazzy trailer with chrome wheels to build it one.

My main questions are in regard to the cylinder and knife. I have observed a lot of splitters that have a fixed knife, and equally as many that have the knife attached to the hydraulic ram. Is there really an advantage to either position assuming that I will never split vertically?
The next question is to which end of the machine should one split? Most of the ones I have used from the usual companies push the wood away from the trailer hitch. All of the homebuilt ones around here seem to push the wood towards the trailer hitch. It seems to me that if you push the wood towards the hitch that is going to be more trouble backing it into the woodpile. Is one preferable to the other?

I appreciate any thoughts you may have. I want to try to think through everything first, so that I can build this once and not have to re-work it when I should be splitting wood.
Thanks,
Bill

 

[avalancher]

I have a few questions concerning building a log splitter for home use. I have used the units from Lowe’s, Northern Tool, and a few homemade ones. I currently use a bushhog brand on the back of the tractor, but do not really like using it. With that said, I have decided to fabricate my own engine powered log splitter with help from my brother.

I have a pretty good start on the parts. I found a guy who started to build one a few years ago and gave up on it due to health reasons. He had a 28 gpm Haldex pump, a 5 ½” bore cylinder with a 3” rod and 32” stroke, the valves, 30 gallon tank, etc. He said he was going to build a “showcase” splitter as he called it. Also included in the deal was a W10 x 54 beam and a snazzy trailer with chrome wheels to build it one.

My main questions are in regard to the cylinder and knife. I have observed a lot of splitters that have a fixed knife, and equally as many that have the knife attached to the hydraulic ram. Is there really an advantage to either position assuming that I will never split vertically?
The next question is to which end of the machine should one split? Most of the ones I have used from the usual companies push the wood away from the trailer hitch. All of the homebuilt ones around here seem to push the wood towards the trailer hitch. It seems to me that if you push the wood towards the hitch that is going to be more trouble backing it into the woodpile. Is one preferable to the other?

I appreciate any thoughts you may have. I want to try to think through everything first, so that I can build this once and not have to re-work it when I should be splitting wood.
Thanks,
Bill

As far as where you mount the splitting wedge, that is a matter of preference. There is some degree of twist on the cylinder when mounting the wedge on the ram, so some prefer the wedge to be mounted on the beam, but there are plenty of commercial made splitters on the market that have had no problems with this design.

All in all, I think the best position to mount your wedge is so that wood being split goes away from the hitch for one big reason, you dont have to disconnect the splitter from the tow vehicle to use the splitter. I often come home from work, drive the splitter out to the woodpile with the garden tractor, and split until dark, and I sure as heck would not be so inclined if I had to unhook and rehook the splitter up each time. But here again, its a matter of preference.

 

[kyle1!]

Personal preference

That will be one nice splitter when done. As for type of wedge (cyl or beam)and placement of the wedge that is something you will have to figure out. What do you like best? I plan to fix my wedge to the beam and it will be on the hitch side. Once the piece is split I want to be able to throw that piece into the back of a truck. I don't want to pick that piece up off the ground or from a pile again. I plan to mount a lifting crane with winch. The crane can lift the pieces onto the splitter and also winch new rounds up to the splitter itself. That way you can work from both sides of the splitter. Alot of options and sometimes it makes my head hurt

Brian

 

[dave_dj1]

I too am in the design stages. I like the fact that if the wedge is on the ram you don't have to drag pieces of split wood back to split them again, it is a very rare occasion when I get wood small enough to only split once. That being said, I have ruled out this set up for me. I like the idea of running the wood through a 4 way and using a straight wedge for multiple passes. I am going to have log cradles to catch the pieces, I'm too old to bend over all the time. I am going to split towards the hitch so if I want to split into the truck instead of the trailer I can. I have occasions that I can't take the trailer to a tree so the truck has to do.
I know what you mean about your head spinning! LOL
good luck,
dave

 

[triptester]

If you plan on horizontal use only place the wedge on the beam. With the cylinder you have a 4-way wedge will work nicely. 4-way wedges don't work well when mounted on the ram. The hitch location depends on preference. Mounting the hitch opposite the wedge will require greater overall lenght to keep the wheels out of the splitting area. The position of the engine and tank will be very important to maintian balance when splitting large blocks.

 

[Dan_IN_MN]

I too am in the design stages. I like the fact that if the wedge is on the ram you don't have to drag pieces of split wood back to split them again, it is a very rare occasion when I get wood small enough to only split once. That being said, I have ruled out this set up for me. I like the idea of running the wood through a 4 way and using a straight wedge for multiple passes. I am going to have log cradles to catch the pieces, I'm too old to bend over all the time. I am going to split towards the hitch so if I want to split into the truck instead of the trailer I can. I have occasions that I can't take the trailer to a tree so the truck has to do.
I know what you mean about your head spinning! LOL
good luck,
dave

Dave

You might want to consider giving yourself a bit longer tongue so when you're splitting the wood has some clearance before it hits the truck....This has been an issue when I've used a splitter with the wedge mounted on the beam on the hitch side.

 

[dave_dj1]

Yeah, I have already planned on a longer tongue...
I really don't see me moving the splitter out of my yard , maybe on occasion but not often.

 

[Steve NW WI]

My opinion is wedge on beam. If you want to get fancy, you put a conveyor off the end and the splits spill off the end into the conveyor. With a wedge on ram, you've gotta toss every split. I have a wedge on beam, and just let the splits pile on the ground behind me. The cylinder just keeps pushing them away, no need to toss.

Work tables work just as well on a wedge on beam machine as they do on a toe plate machine, they just need to extend further (past the wedge).

I'd rather the wedge be opposite the hitch, so the splitter can stay hooked to the tow vehicle. If it's on the front, sure you can stay hooked and load the truck, but if you're splitting to a pile or stack, you're back to tossing.

If I split in the woods, I pull the splitter as close to the tree as I can, and back a trailer up to it. I usually only do this when I have lots of big rounds to deal with, and I'm cutting at home or close to it. Otherwise I haul the wood to the splitter at the woodpile.

You should spend some time dreaming how your system would work if it was perfect, then go with the design closest to your ideal setup.

 

[Bill Jones]

Thanks for all the information about my questions. I had not considered the four way wedge into the equation. But, I think it would be a welcome addition.

I found a GX610 engine so I am well on my way to getting started.

Bill

 

[Suz]

If you want to build a splitter that you can use horizontally or vertically then you have to put the wedge on the ram and the "foot" on the end of the beam.

 

[Oliver1655]

Choices, Choices!
- I prefer a dedicated horizontal with the wedge fixed to a beam. Mine pushes the wood onto out feed tables towards the truck. The 6,000# rated axle is set towards the back of the splitter to where I can safely tow a trailer behind it at highway speeds.
- I have a longer log lift which makes it easier to get the larger rounds on as well as works well for a staging table. (I have no problems with cranes. You might consider a "T" shaped wedge where it will slice of the bottom of a large round & split it then you swing the remainder back in front of the wedge, lower the round & split off another section. A 4 way wedge is handy at times, but if you decide to go this way, I would either make the horizontal wings be able to lower to the level of the beam or be lifted off to where I would have the option of splitting with a single edge.
- If you wanted to get creative, you could incorporate a slide out hitch on the back side and have an idler wheel for the regular hitch end to where you could pull the splitter away from the pile as you split to make a windrow.
- Are you planning to split 32 inch wood? If not, I would encourage your to make a cylinder stop which goes between the cylinder tube & the yoke on the end of the ram rod which will keep it from fully retracting. This will help to decrease your cycle time. However take it off when not using the splitter & retract the ram fully protect it.

 

[Bushmans]

Choices, Choices!
- I prefer a dedicated horizontal with the wedge fixed to a beam. Mine pushes the wood onto out feed tables towards the truck. The 6,000# rated axle is set towards the back of the splitter to where I can safely tow a trailer behind it at highway speeds.
- I have a longer log lift which makes it easier to get the larger rounds on as well as works well for a staging table. (I have no problems with cranes. You might consider a "T" shaped wedge where it will slice of the bottom of a large round & split it then you swing the remainder back in front of the wedge, lower the round & split off another section. A 4 way wedge is handy at times, but if you decide to go this way, I would either make the horizontal wings be able to lower to the level of the beam or be lifted off to where I would have the option of splitting with a single edge.
- If you wanted to get creative, you could incorporate a slide out hitch on the back side and have an idler wheel for the regular hitch end to where you could pull the splitter away from the pile as you split to make a windrow.
- Are you planning to split 32 inch wood? If not, I would encourage your to make a cylinder stop which goes between the cylinder tube & the yoke on the end of the ram rod which will keep it from fully retracting. This will help to decrease your cycle time. However take it off when not using the splitter & retract the ram fully protect it.

That is a heck of a set up! Is that a car dolly? If it is great idea. Is the cooling system for the hydraulics? I take it the ramp is detachable because it looks like that is where you should stand? Sorry for all the questions but when I see something nice I like to know the particulars so i can utilize those ideas should I ever build my own. Thanks again!

 

[Preston]

Holy cow, what a rig.

 

[Oliver1655]

In response to Bushmans' queries:
- A car dolly? No, just a wood splitter with a trailer hitch on back. If your are referring to the dolly under the hitch, it is a simple dolly I made to use with my mower to pull trailer's around.
- Yes, that is an oil cooler for the hydraulic system. It has 3/4" inlet & outlets and is located on the return side of the series of valves. I can split wood when it is 100 degrees with the box fan, which is mounted on the cylinder side of the cooler, running & the hydraulic oil stays in the mid 120 degree F. This also draws air across the cylinder which helps with the cooling. (The box fan can run off a 200 watt power inverter wired to the battery for the engine or be plugged into an extension cord).
- The "ramp" is the log lift. It is rarely left on the ground. If it is not needed to lift large rounds, it is in the half raised position being used as a staging table. The operator stands on the opposite side. If a helper is needed with the really large rounds, they stand to the side of the log lift by the out feed table to help guide the split portion back on to the lift to be split again. Other wise the helper, (if I have one), keeps the log lift full of wood to be split & empties the out feed tables. This allows the splitter operator to stay busy splitting. If there is no helper, I turn off the engine, pile the log lift/staging table FULL of wood then start it back up & split until it is empty. Working this way really saves on fuel.
I have chronic tendonitis in my shoulders, so I mounted the valves so I would be able to push/pull instead of having to go side to side across my body.
This system has made life much easier. I take the splitter & trailer to the cutting site, split then load. This way I only have to handle the large pieces 1 time. (A 2 wheel dolly to bring the large rounds to the splitter comes in handy.)