WHat about some pole barn insulation? I have seen it in 8' wide or wider rolls with a poly face. You could cut it to length and tack it up with some roofing nails to the sill plate and drap it down the walls. It is pretty cheap.
Wood Stove in Large uninsulated basement not heating up stairs.
- Thread starter winsormcbeth
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Steve NW WI
Unwanted Riff Raff.
I'm totally confused by the number of people who treat a basement as a way to hide the mechanical equipment and store junk. Why pay good money for space you're not going to use.
I spend most of the summer hiding in the basement where it's naurally cooler instead of cranking the AC, and have a little workshop down there for small projects (like tinkering on old saws). Mine's by no means "finished", but it's sure useable. It's got all the essentials down there, a bedroom, bathroom, shop area, and a living room area. TV, microwave, and beer fridge for when I don't feel like going upstairs at all, and as a bonus, the cell phone doesn't work worth crap down there.
If you don't want a useable basement, build on a slab. If you're gonna have a basement, get some use out of it. Too many people I know have a big fancy house with a bunch of wasted space below the first floor. It's always the same, "I'm gonna finish it, someday."
haveawoody
Addicted to ArboristSite
Jules083,
It's that easy to insulate a basement.
Construction adhesive like PE or another good brand will never let go once dry.
With tounge and grove insulation pannels it's pretty much as good as sprayed insulation.
If the basement is getting wet it's one of two things, a leak or crack in the wall or very cold walls and warm air inside allowing it to condensate.
A thermal break of insulation pannels will stop condensation in it's tracks forever, but a leak or crack in the wall it won't stop.
As for drywall it almost never goes right on the insulation in a basement.
Framing just beyond the insulation and drywall on it, eletrical in the framing.
Sprayed in foam is similar but tends to fill more of the wood bays area so you have to frame first a few inches away from the wall.
With pannels you frame whenever you decide to finish the basement and you can select fire resistant insulation pannels so no real rush to finish a basement.
Dont forget to thermal break the framing if you plan on putting it up as the same condensation problem from the floor will rot it on the bottom.
Basement = Man cave, large beer fridge, pool table, bar, giant tv movie room, workshop etc.
Sounds like my kind of waste area
It's that easy to insulate a basement.
Construction adhesive like PE or another good brand will never let go once dry.
With tounge and grove insulation pannels it's pretty much as good as sprayed insulation.
If the basement is getting wet it's one of two things, a leak or crack in the wall or very cold walls and warm air inside allowing it to condensate.
A thermal break of insulation pannels will stop condensation in it's tracks forever, but a leak or crack in the wall it won't stop.
As for drywall it almost never goes right on the insulation in a basement.
Framing just beyond the insulation and drywall on it, eletrical in the framing.
Sprayed in foam is similar but tends to fill more of the wood bays area so you have to frame first a few inches away from the wall.
With pannels you frame whenever you decide to finish the basement and you can select fire resistant insulation pannels so no real rush to finish a basement.
Dont forget to thermal break the framing if you plan on putting it up as the same condensation problem from the floor will rot it on the bottom.
Basement = Man cave, large beer fridge, pool table, bar, giant tv movie room, workshop etc.
Sounds like my kind of waste area
Last edited:
allstihl
ArboristSite Guru
my cellar is 1000sq ft. no insulation.my stove is gravity feed. cellar is 80, 1st floor is 75, 2nd floor is 60.you need a bigger stove!
stihlguy
10 yo grandson using 024 Super
This is my barrel stove kit with duct work up to a grate in the living room floor, end of hall way there is a 10" X 15" cold air return down to cellar floor. 1200 sq ft ranch house, both cellar and house very warm all winter. Cellar walls are not insulated and are not exposed.
MotorSeven
Addicted to ArboristSite
What brand of stove are you running since a 11 degree rise ain't much? Uninsulated block walls have an insulation R-value of 1...that's right ONE. Your going to have to get a bigger stove and insulate your walls that are above ground.
drywall is cheap
My original suggestion isn't so cracked after all.
A couple of arm loads of 2x4's and 8 sheets of drywall. Frame you a nice 8 foot cube. Then run two LARGE ducts off this room to separate floor vents (equally large). No fan needed. Hot air rises quite nicely. The return down the stairs is awsum. Just put a honkin' big vent in the basement door if you don't wanna leave it ajar.
The big problem is the walls and windows is where the heat is going. Plus there is insulation in the main floor...
While you are at it, wrap some insulation around the ducts, put them atleast a dozen feet apart. it'll work like a charm. Then you can figure out a way to get wood into basement, enough for a few days anyway.
Not gonna freak out and mention that maybe the fire department should be on speed dial, and there aught to be planks of drywall ready to cover the vents (buys a few minutes to get the he double hockey sticks outta there). Not gonna freak at all.
My original suggestion isn't so cracked after all.
A couple of arm loads of 2x4's and 8 sheets of drywall. Frame you a nice 8 foot cube. Then run two LARGE ducts off this room to separate floor vents (equally large). No fan needed. Hot air rises quite nicely. The return down the stairs is awsum. Just put a honkin' big vent in the basement door if you don't wanna leave it ajar.
The big problem is the walls and windows is where the heat is going. Plus there is insulation in the main floor...
While you are at it, wrap some insulation around the ducts, put them atleast a dozen feet apart. it'll work like a charm. Then you can figure out a way to get wood into basement, enough for a few days anyway.
Not gonna freak out and mention that maybe the fire department should be on speed dial, and there aught to be planks of drywall ready to cover the vents (buys a few minutes to get the he double hockey sticks outta there). Not gonna freak at all.
haveawoody
Addicted to ArboristSite
winsormcbeth,
Just a thought here but do you have a basement door at the top of the stairs that remains closed?
If so try leaving it open and the natural heat flow will send heat upstairs.
At minimum poly over and tape in place the basement windows though.
Windows are always a source of cold air entering the building and with a woodstove wanting air it will pull from the closest easiest source for it.
Just a thought here but do you have a basement door at the top of the stairs that remains closed?
If so try leaving it open and the natural heat flow will send heat upstairs.
At minimum poly over and tape in place the basement windows though.
Windows are always a source of cold air entering the building and with a woodstove wanting air it will pull from the closest easiest source for it.
zogger
Tree Freak
Add some floor vents, at least one per room upstairs, and leave the basement steps door open is the cheapest way to get some heat up there NOW. Then start working on insulating the walls.
And you said the floor was insulated, as in you are starring at fiberglass insulation fibers? I would think that isnt too nice for air quality. Perhaps you can reuse that in the attic, add more depth? I mean you are trying to heat upstairs, yet the insulation blocks that from happening right now.
I am just saying what I would do working on the cheap. Floor vents/grates, take that insulation up to the attic or crawlspace and lay it in on top of what is there.
Those rigid glue on sheets the guys mention up above sound the ticket for the basement walls.
check the specs and make sure the glue/adhesive is correct and that when you apply them the temjps are within range. Might be diicult to get a good stick in the winter i those walls are cold. maybe an electric heater aimed at a wall section, then move it to the next one, etc. Or infrared heat lamps. Farm/feed stores carry those, like tractor supply, etc.
I used to use those working on vehicles in the winter up north, just aimed it at the area I was working, was nice! As I had no garage (still dont..grumble..), those dont heat air but heat up the parts/area in question well, plus provide light. Just dont get drips on the bulbs while they are hot....
And you said the floor was insulated, as in you are starring at fiberglass insulation fibers? I would think that isnt too nice for air quality. Perhaps you can reuse that in the attic, add more depth? I mean you are trying to heat upstairs, yet the insulation blocks that from happening right now.
I am just saying what I would do working on the cheap. Floor vents/grates, take that insulation up to the attic or crawlspace and lay it in on top of what is there.
Those rigid glue on sheets the guys mention up above sound the ticket for the basement walls.
check the specs and make sure the glue/adhesive is correct and that when you apply them the temjps are within range. Might be diicult to get a good stick in the winter i those walls are cold. maybe an electric heater aimed at a wall section, then move it to the next one, etc. Or infrared heat lamps. Farm/feed stores carry those, like tractor supply, etc.
I used to use those working on vehicles in the winter up north, just aimed it at the area I was working, was nice! As I had no garage (still dont..grumble..), those dont heat air but heat up the parts/area in question well, plus provide light. Just dont get drips on the bulbs while they are hot....
blackdogon57
Addicted to ArboristSite
Why not move the stove upstairs ? If you spend your time upstairs the that's where a wood stove usually works best. I remember reading a thread the other day where the poster mentioned that his house was 100 degrees warmer than outside. I bet the stove was located on the main floor.
winsormcbeth
ArboristSite Lurker
It is not a small stove. Its a Schrader. Its about 16" deep and 22" or 23" wide. Here is a picture.
winsormcbeth
ArboristSite Lurker
I did have the basement door open, but the basement wasn't getting very warm. After burning the stove for 6+ hours one evening the temperature in the basement only went up 11 degrees so i think all the heat was being absorbed through the block walls. I like and agree with all the ideas about building a small room/enclosure around the stove (even if just with 4mil plastic like a greenhouse) and then running a fan with duct work out of that room to the upstairs.
winsormcbeth
ArboristSite Lurker
Its a Schrader and mesasures about 16x23" inside so not small. I attached a pic. I think it is old and it does have an 8" opening so i used a reducer down so i could fit it to my 6" stainless steel chimney liner. I've been told that its bad to go from 8" opening on the stove to 6" chimney liner too :-(
winsormcbeth
ArboristSite Lurker
Is the problem with my Old Schrader Fireplace stove?
Just did some reading on forums about my Schrader Fireplace stove and it seems like it was made in the late 1970's and early 80's and is not very efficient. Inside its about 16in by 23in. It has an 8" pipe out the back and i put a "reducer" on it to make it fit my 6" stainless steel chimney. I went into a stove shop the other day and the prices for a new stove were well over $1500, some $2000 and one was over $3000 but it burned 20 hours and was automatically/electronically controlled and like 100% efficient. It even burned the smoke it created! Maybe part of my problem is i need a newer, more efficient stove!?
Just did some reading on forums about my Schrader Fireplace stove and it seems like it was made in the late 1970's and early 80's and is not very efficient. Inside its about 16in by 23in. It has an 8" pipe out the back and i put a "reducer" on it to make it fit my 6" stainless steel chimney. I went into a stove shop the other day and the prices for a new stove were well over $1500, some $2000 and one was over $3000 but it burned 20 hours and was automatically/electronically controlled and like 100% efficient. It even burned the smoke it created! Maybe part of my problem is i need a newer, more efficient stove!?
allstihl
ArboristSite Guru
+1
stihlguy
10 yo grandson using 024 Super
I believe the new barrel stove kits are around $75 + the barrel. Simple, yet effective.
shawnw
ArboristSite Member
Stupid question: Is the stove functioning correctly? Old stoves were horribly inefficient but typically BLAST out the heat. What are your flue temps? What kind of wood? Is it seasoned? Is it burning properly? I guess I'm of the thought process that we should cover the basics before we reinvent the wheel, and I don't think I've seen these questions addressed yet? Could be wrong....worked 15 hours today, so I'm a bit shot.
stihly dan
Addicted to ArboristSite
1st your stove is NOT working well with the reduced chimney, Just cut the size in half. 2nd take down the insulation in the ceiling and put it in the attic. 3rd. put as many floor vents as possible. 4th put a couple floor vents attached to 6 in rd duct work to the floor of the basement, 8 in of the floor.5th get a fan in a can, $21 at Lowe's, put it in one of the ducts. This will pressurize the basement helping the heat that wants to rise, go up stairs.
Now if you can afford it, get a new stove. Box stores will have some for $500 or so now, better ones are better. Then at least those 4X8 sheets of 2 in insulation with foil backing.(they are not rated for indoor but will work.) And lastly, some sort of reflective material in front of the stove on the floor. That concrete area takes a crap load of heat.
LET IT BE SAID< LET IT BE DONE!!!
DO IT!!
Now if you can afford it, get a new stove. Box stores will have some for $500 or so now, better ones are better. Then at least those 4X8 sheets of 2 in insulation with foil backing.(they are not rated for indoor but will work.) And lastly, some sort of reflective material in front of the stove on the floor. That concrete area takes a crap load of heat.
LET IT BE SAID< LET IT BE DONE!!!
DO IT!!
winsormcbeth
ArboristSite Lurker
Not sure what the flue temps are. I am burning apple wood and it is certainly seasoned, over 1 year old. Tons of apple orchards near my house so no problem getting wood as farmers are always pushing out an old orchard! I keep the damper on the pipe out of the stove open to get the fire started and then close it so as not to loose all my heat out the chimney and have it burn slower. The vents on the front i have played with and doesn't seem to make much difference if they are open or nearly shut but then again i can't see the fire inside since there is no glass to look through.
