wood stove in the basement?

[Wood Scrounge]

I have been trying to figure out a way to run a chimney out of my basement that is bellow ground. in other words the chimney needs to run out of the basement bellow ground level. Has any one seen this done and if so how?

this window opens into a window well that is about 2' deep from ground level. I would like to take the window out and run the pipe through a blanking plate that I will make. the problem I see is the bottom of the 90 degree will be on the ground. all suggestions welcome.

 

[cjcocn]

The 90 degree bend being on the ground is of little consequence initially since you could just dig out the ground to create some space. However, upon further reflection I can see some issues with precipitation, especially in the winter.

Summer precipitation:

With a hole in the ground, you will essentially have a basin to catch water. But then again that is what you have now with the window. How is the drainage? If you need better drainage do you have enough slope to trench out a sloped ditch and backfill it with gravel to promote water runoff?

Winter precipitation:

I can envision a continuous melting of the snow and a subsequent buildup of ice. That may or may not turn out to be an issue - someone more versed in this area will have a better idea. If it is an issue, would building an airtight outer pipe be an option? I'm thinking that such a pipe would operate much the way that a chimney pipe works in that it would contain the heat and reduce the melt/freeze action.

These are just quick thoughts.

HTH

 

[Tree Slayer]

I would think you will be using double or triple wall pipe? might need triple wall that close to a combustible wall, if you go though the window your going to have to make something to close that off you can do the same with the top of the window well were the the pipe comes out to keep moisture out. if you can't do it try a small metal shop.

 

[Wood Scrounge]

The 90 degree bend being on the ground is of little consequence initially since you could just dig out the ground to create some space. However, upon further reflection I can see some issues with precipitation, especially in the winter.

Summer precipitation:

With a hole in the ground, you will essentially have a basin to catch water. But then again that is what you have now with the window. How is the drainage? If you need better drainage do you have enough slope to trench out a sloped ditch and backfill it with gravel to promote water runoff?

Winter precipitation:

I can envision a continuous melting of the snow and a subsequent buildup of ice. That may or may not turn out to be an issue - someone more versed in this area will have a better idea. If it is an issue, would building an airtight outer pipe be an option? I'm thinking that such a pipe would operate much the way that a chimney pipe works in that it would contain the heat and reduce the melt/freeze action.

These are just quick thoughts.

HTH

There is a cheap clear plastic cover over the well now that keeps most of the precip out. however I have another one of these windows that is only shielded by a shrub and the drainage seems fine. I was thinking I could build a shield that would surround the pipe that I can remove to clean.

Isn't't the clean out for those chimney kits on the bottom of the 90 though?

 

[avalancher]

My question for you is, what are you planning on doing with the pipe once you exit through the window? Are you planning on running up along side the exterior wall so that you can get the pipe above the roof line? Wont you run into the eves of the house?

 

[cjcocn]

Isn't't the clean out for those chimney kits on the bottom of the 90 though?

Good question. Our chimney is built right to the floor (stove in basement), but the pipe exits about 4' above that and runs to the stove. Our clean out is at floor level.

Any time you clean that chimney you will have junk at the bottom by that 90 degree bend. How far is the run from the basement thru the window? Would it be possible to build a scoop with a long enough handle? (or does someone know of a simpler method?)

My question for you is, what are you planning on doing with the pipe once you exit through the window? Are you planning on running up along side the exterior wall so that you can get the pipe above the roof line? Wont you run into the eves of the house?

An excellent question. Any bends that you put in the pipe to go around the eaves will make cleaning a lot more interesting unless you get an elbow that is off 90 degrees. That would allow you to run straight from the window well to the outside of the eave, but the pipe would not be parallel to the house.

I will do a quick www search when I get to work (dial-up at home) and maybe I can find something out there to give us some ideas.

 

[Wood Scrounge]

Originally Posted by avalancher
My question for you is, what are you planning on doing with the pipe once you exit through the window? Are you planning on running up along side the exterior wall so that you can get the pipe above the roof line? Wont you run into the eves of the house?

That window is on the end\side of the house I can run straght up (once outside) to the roof. It will be offset from the peak by about 3'.

 

[avalancher]

That window is on the end\side of the house I can run straght up (once outside) to the roof. It will be offset from the peak by about 3'.

What did you plan on using for pipe? My thoughts were that if you use single wall pipe on the outside(by far the cheapest way to go i think) you might end up with a rather unstable pipe what with all the connecting of the pipe pieces togther, and that it wouldnt last very long with the weather rusting it out. Running stainless pipe would probably be more expensive than if you ran a chimney up to the roof with concrete block with a liner. You could pour a slab in the hole in the ground and build a nice chimney up the end of your house that could be later faced with rock or something(or maybe build the thing with rock to begin with, or even brick) Attach your interior pipe towards the top of the window opening that would allow for a cleanout right below it. Might be a bit more expensive, especially if you had to hire the mason work, but in the end you would have a more stable and eye pleasing piece of work that wouldnt need the replacing of pipe like single wall will end up being.
Just my thoughts on the matter!

 

[kallaste]

flue install.

I was faced with the same problem. Here is what I did. If you run out the window your flue pipe will be to close to the celiing and could cause a fire and or insurance problems. Scrap the window idea!
Simply move over left or right of the window,dig a square box outside atleast 4.5 blocks deep and 3' out from the hse. Use your thrue wall pipe kit as a template for you hole in the block. Use a 4 1/2" angle grinder with a diamond embeaded blade to cut a circle in the block (very easily done with this blade!)
Make a plywood box 4'' smaller than the hole that was dug outside. This is going to be your cement form, so be sure to reinforce it with 2x4s. Place in the hole and pour cement between the plywood form and the ground.Pound 1.5 inch round stick in bottom for drainage while cement is still wet.Be Sure to let it set 24 hrs before removing the plywood form.
Stuff newpaper into the voids created in the cement block and fill with mortor. This will reinforce the block and prevent further cracking. Install chimney hanger on outside of block with tapcons.

Once your install is done you will notice that the single wall pipe goes thrue the block at the required 18" from combustables. Its not as difficult as it sounds. Will post pictures of my setup if requested.

Thanks Steve.

 

[Cowboy Billy]

I would think you would need at least 15' of pipe. With that much single wall pipe it would seem like it would cool your exhaust and you may have more problems with condensation on the inside of the pipe and more creosote buildup.

Billy

 

[Wood Scrounge]

I was faced with the same problem. Here is what I did. If you run out the window your flue pipe will be to close to the ceiling and could cause a fire and or insurance problems. Scrap the window idea!
Simply move over left or right of the window,dig a square box outside at least 4.5 blocks deep and 3' out from the hse. Use your thrue wall pipe kit as a template for you hole in the block. Use a 4 1/2" angle grinder with a diamond embeaded blade to cut a circle in the block (very easily done with this blade!)
Make a plywood box 4'' smaller than the hole that was dug outside. This is going to be your cement form, so be sure to reinforce it with 2x4s. Place in the hole and pour cement between the plywood form and the ground.Pound 1.5 inch round stick in bottom for drainage while cement is still wet.Be Sure to let it set 24 hrs before removing the plywood form.
Stuff newpaper into the voids created in the cement block and fill with mortor. This will reinforce the block and prevent further cracking. Install chimney hanger on outside of block with tapcons.

Once your install is done you will notice that the single wall pipe goes thrue the block at the required 18" from combustables. Its not as difficult as it sounds. Will post pictures of my setup if requested.

Thanks Steve.

Pictures please, this sounds like a plan. I plan on using single wall stove pipe up to through pipe and then switching over to the S.S. double walled insulated chimney kit.

 

[kallaste]

Pictures please, this sounds like a plan. I plan on using single wall stove pipe up to through pipe and then switching over to the S.S. double walled insulated chimney kit.

I will get picts asap,but I am leaving florida for a wedding on thurs retuning on monday. I will get them before if I can but as soon as I return.


Thanks Steve.