Worked On the Mill Today

[820wards]

Hey guys, I made a few changes to the mill today. I drilled the bar so I can bolt it directly to the frame to make chain removal and installation easier. After I built the mill and had to take the chain off, I knew right then and there this has got to be changed. Aggie/BobL confirmed to me that it would be much easier to do chain removals. I still have the guides that bolt on to frame that rides along the logs as I mill.

I also replaced the .404 x 7 driver rim to a .404 x 8. BobL calculated that would increase my chain speed by about 14% so I'll be ready give it a try.

Here a few pic's.

Looking at the bolt that holds the bar to the frame.

Looking Down at the bolt sandwiched between the frame guides.

Bolt drilled through the nose of the bar.

.404 x 8 drive rim mounted on the 820 PowerBee motor. You can also see the chain adjustment I built. It works great.

jerry-

 

[BobL]

Jerry, once you drill the bar you don't really need the bottom clamp or the clamp bolts, It makes it even easier to get the chain on/off and saves a bit of weight.

 

[rayvil01]

The bar adjuster looks to be a big improvement.

Just looking at this one pic, are you using an open end wrench to adjust the bolt? I'm wondering if you turned the bolt around and left the head back towards the clutch, could you then use a ratchet on the bolt head? That would make it even easier to use. There may not be enough clearance. It's hard to see from this one pic.

Great work. It must be nice to be able to weld like that.

 

[820wards]

The bar adjuster looks to be a big improvement.

Just looking at this one pic, are you using an open end wrench to adjust the bolt? I'm wondering if you turned the bolt around and left the head back towards the clutch, could you then use a ratchet on the bolt head? That would make it even easier to use. There may not be enough clearance. It's hard to see from this one pic.

Great work. It must be nice to be able to weld like that.

Ray,

I actually make chain adjustments from the right side of the adjustment piece. It is a 5/16" square head bolt. Without the ny-lock nut you couldn't make a forward or tightening adjustment, only rearward or loosening. It's just a stop nut and makes it very easy for adjusting the chain tension. Here is a better picture of the adjuster bolt, you can just see the square head bolt on the right side of the slider bar. I copied the idea from a chainsaw book on old saws my daughter gave me at Christmas a couple of years ago. A picture says a thousand words.


Square head adjuster bolt.

jerry-

 

[820wards]

Jerry, once you drill the bar you don't really need the bottom clamp or the clamp bolts, It makes it even easier to get the chain on/off and saves a bit of weight.

Bob,

I leave those on because I built a wood rack that I can set the mill on after I make a cut/starting and for transportation purposes. It comes off pretty easy when I want to remove the chain. But being able to bolt through the bar is soooooo much easier.

Can't wait to try the new drive sprocket now.

jerry-

 

[BobL]

Bob,

I leave those on because I built a wood rack that I can set the mill on after I make a cut/starting and for transportation purposes. It comes off pretty easy when I want to remove the chain.

Yep I understand.

BTW I love the chain adjuster. I assume the second plate (underneath the top plate) has a stud welded into it to protrude into the bar length adjusting hole?

 

[rayvil01]

Ray,

I actually make chain adjustments from the right side of the adjustment piece. It is a 5/16" square head bolt. Without the ny-lock nut you couldn't make a forward or tightening adjustment, only rearward or loosening. It's just a stop nut and makes it very easy for adjusting the chain tension. Here is a better picture of the adjuster bolt, you can just see the square head bolt on the right side of the slider bar. I copied the idea from a chainsaw book on old saws my daughter gave me at Christmas a couple of years ago. A picture says a thousand words.


Square head adjuster bolt.

jerry-

I see what you're doing now. Excellent. Thanks for the follow-up.

 

[820wards]

Yep I understand.

BTW I love the chain adjuster. I assume the second plate (underneath the top plate) has a stud welded into it to protrude into the bar length adjusting hole?

Bob,

I have a hole drilled in the adjuster plate where the the hole in the bar is located. I then machined a pin that protrudes on the back side but recessed on the front of the plate. The pin then picks up the hole in the bar for adjustment. I tig welded the slightly recessed pin in three locations so if it ever needs replacement it will be easy to drill out and replace. Simplicity is beautiful!

jerry-

 

[820wards]

I see what you're doing now. Excellent. Thanks for the follow-up.

Next time I take it off the mill I'll take some detailed pictures.

jerry-

 

[jimdad07]

Nice work Jerry. Is that mill completely homemade? Looks like a factory job. Keep up the good work.

 

[820wards]

Nice work Jerry. Is that mill completely homemade? Looks like a factory job. Keep up the good work.

I built the mill from scratch. It is a 134cc Power Bee 2-stroke industrial motor that I have tweaked for more power. The mill frame is my version of an Alaskan Mill. It has been real fun to use. I have milled oak, ash, elm and maple with it so far and it has worked very good. Only had a couple of minor problems. Forgetting to tighten a screw that holds the nose protector on and the other was to replace the manual oil pump seals from rubber to leather.

This link is from the second time log I milled. I've done plenty since we did this ash log.

http://s450.photobucket.com/albums/qq222/820wards/?action=view&current=Production2em.flv

Are you into milling like the rest of use here?

jerry-