WT 194 rebuild problem...

[Griffbm3]

So I have this older 026 (rivet top) that's owner hardly uses it. Carb was a little dirty, and it was running like it could use a cleaning. Compression is fine (160), piston looks great, and it ran and started quickly, problem was in acceleration.

Used the right kit (K20 WAT), it is OEM, not Stens, replaced everything including welch plug. Put it all back together, and now it won't start, but not for lack of fuel... It literally floods like mad, all the time.

Order of parts since I don't have the picture of the wt194 cross-section.

Top cover, gasket (spacer), then the diaphragm to the carb, or should that be reversed? I have tried it both ways, with the same result. I replaced the needle, with the spoon, and I even changed it back to no avail.

On the underside, it went: cover, screen, gasket, carb I think...

This thing pours fuel out of the exhaust with just 3 pulls. I have resorted to pulling the muffler, drying it all out, and trying this again and again. Has anyone ever done this before? I'm just baout ready to just buy a new one, but I thought I would try here first...

Thanks in advance everyone,

Jason

 

[Lakeside53]

Top cover, METERING Diaphragm, Gasket
Bottom cover, GASKET, Pump Diaphragm.

Metering needle - level with the bosses on the bottom of the metering chamber (NOT the top)

 

[Jacob J.]

Jason- the fuel pump diaphragm should be directly against the carb followed by the gasket and then the cover. The metering diaphragm (where the inlet needle lever is) should on top of the gasket with the cover going on top of the diaphragm. If it's flooding that tells me the inlet needle is staying open all the time.

So, fuel pump side: Carb body, diaphragm, gasket, cover.

Metering side: Carb body, gasket, diaphragm, cover.

 

[Stihl051master]

Here's a link that will help you out:

http://wem.walbro.com/distributors/servicemanuals/WTseries.pdf

 

[Lakeside53]

lolol I must type faster.

 

[Jacob J.]

lolol I must type faster.

uh huh

 

[Griffbm3]

Thanks guys,

I'll let you know how it goes tomorrow, I'm at work now and they don't let me play with chainsaws in this office

Jason

 

[Lakeside53]

Also.... check your welch plug is secure...

 

[Griffbm3]

I am actually considering running out to the truck bay and out on a fluid protective suit to look at the carb again...

I am left with one question though, how do you adjust the metering device? Or should I ask, what is actually adjustable? Is it the screw that holds down the inlet needle spoon? I always tightened that down, maybe too tight?

Just wondering.

Jason

 

[Lakeside53]

The screw should be tight, and the spring correctly located under the lever.


The lever is adjusted by tiny bends up or down.. tiny...

 

[Griffbm3]

Thanks Andy, that explains a lot actually... The old spoon looked "different" from the new one, but I couldn't really figure out why. Thanks again.

Jason

 

[Griffbm3]

Still having trouble, so I took off the welch plug tha tI replaced, and it turns out that in using the Punch tha tI bought for the walbros, I did damage the area beneath the welch plug. Looks like I broke off a small chunk over three tiny holes.

Think I'll have to order a new one now, but they're cheap, and it was "fun" to try and diagnose this issue. thanks again to everyone for helping me out.

Jason

 

[Jacob J.]

Still having trouble, so I took off the welch plug tha tI replaced, and it turns out that in using the Punch tha tI bought for the walbros, I did damage the area beneath the welch plug. Looks like I broke off a small chunk over three tiny holes.

Think I'll have to order a new one now, but they're cheap, and it was "fun" to try and diagnose this issue. thanks again to everyone for helping me out.

Jason

Before you go ordering a new one, you could let me dig around in my spares box, I think I have an extra off a runner you can have. This is for 026 correct?

 

[Griffbm3]

Yes it's for an 026. Thanks a lot for looking...

Jason

 

[Griffbm3]

Thank-you in the public forum for all of the help with the carb, and for the new one. It works great. This is a saw that is clearly older than originally thought.

I think the crank seals are shot as I cannot set the idle well. The saw hasn't seen much use, and I wouldn't be surprised if it sat on a shelf for a couple of its years.

The serial number on the crankcase is 227287495, so I have no idea when it is from, but it's a rivet top 026, and the air filter is nothing like the new ones.

Thanks again everyone, your help has yet again, been appreciated...

Sincerely,

Jason

 

[Jacob J.]

Was it full of stale gas when you got it? Did you check the fuel filter to see if the internal foam element has melted or turned into powdery junk?

 

[Griffbm3]

Gas was good and fresh when I got it, but haven't checked the filter again though. The fuel line looked good though...

The reason I thought about the crank seals was the "high idle" sound at regular idle. If you tune it down, with the idle screw the chain will stop, but it will stall in about 15 seconds. Any L adjustments are very minuscule. H was easy to adjust with my tach.

The return to idle is not great, takes a little while to come down. I'll have to do a vac/pressure test. Tried to just do the carb, but nothing is that easy...

Thank again JJ,

Jason

 

[skid row]

Pull a pressure/vacuum test. If it don't hold, check the flywheel side crank seal first.

 

[Jacob J.]

Yeah that does sound like a minor air leak...

 

[lawnmowertech37]

uh huh

i type slower lol

nah i type without looking at the keyboard now when i first started out back in 1998 i was typing one letter at a time