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epicklein22
Joined
Feb 2, 2007
Messages
3,843
Location
Mantua, Ohio
I'm gonna order my HD on Monday! All this talk has been driving me crazy. I will have enough extra dough at the end of the week to make my order.

I have been cutting lots of tops lately, the SS should be the cat's meow. I need to get going on my splitting. My wood piles and my new to me 30' conveyor are waiting for some action.

I wouldn't mind trying to build one later down the road. A guy here in Ohio has the info needed.
 
scattergun13

scattergun13

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Oct 8, 2008
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I'm the man in my pants.
It is a hard pill to swallow at first......:givebeer:

Nice score. Regardless of what you paid for it, if you're happy then that's all that matters. I know very little about splitters but based on what I've read and seen posted here I would have no hesitation about buying one. Enjoy you're new toy, money well spent and rep on the way.

Stew and Ajo...
 
NeoTree

NeoTree

ArboristSite Guru
Joined
Oct 19, 2009
Messages
711
Location
Northeast Ohio
I'm gonna order my HD on Monday! All this talk has been driving me crazy. I will have enough extra dough at the end of the week to make my order.

I have been cutting lots of tops lately, the SS should be the cat's meow. I need to get going on my splitting. My wood piles and my new to me 30' conveyor are waiting for some action.

I wouldn't mind trying to build one later down the road. A guy here in Ohio has the info needed.

What's the cost of the home built version?
 
Sierra99

Sierra99

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Dec 20, 2009
Messages
28
Location
Reno, Nevada
I got my HD model in March. With table and crate and shipping to WestCoast price was 3300. Worth every penny. Fast and fun. No more waiting around for the cylinder to extend/retract. Makes splitting a fun chore.

As others have noted, there's more to these units that meets the eye. The safety cover is a very high quality fiberglass job with high quality gelcoat, obviously custom made in a polished mold. The rack is 2-in wide, heat treated, probably a custom order. The pinion is machined into the ~2-in spindle for minimum diameter/max strength, machined 3.5-in wide to tolerate any alignment deviations, and heat treated. The two flywheels are custom cast with SSplitter's name in the mold. These are custom, USA-made castings. The cam mechanism has a custom made "crank" to convert lever-lift to idler-bearing hold down. This presses the rack against the pinion. And the lever is custom machined UHMW plastic, like nylon: tough and shock absorbing. Almost all the parts are USA made, except the engine. And the Subaru engine looks more thoroughly engineered and with better fit/finish than the common Honda units, starts on first pull etc. The wedge (blade, really) is made of two elements, high carbon blade backed up by mild steel w/ slightly less width, resulting in a "hollow ground" type of clearance behind the blade.

Sure, it's a simple 19th century-style design: Yankee ingenuity in the spirit of John Deere. It costs more than some, but that's cuz it works better, longer, faster, and in the end cheaper because it doesn't break down. It's got custom machined elements, and old-school, custom made, heavy duty stuff isn't cheap because you can't just buy the components at the local hydraulics shop.

The end result is worth it: fast, easy, and in my opinion: safer. You stay fully tuned in to the task because there's no waiting for the slow cylinder movement. You put one hand on top of the round and start the cycle with the other hand: like the built-in safety's on factory machines to ensure the operator's hands are out of the danger zone.

After using various hydraulic models over the years, replacing worn out hydraulic motors, dealing with leaking fittings, and of course many cords split by hand, well, all I can say is I wish I'd bought mine long ago. That's why you can't find them used: too highly prized to part with, and when the time comes, passed on like a family heirloom.

"The only thing that breaks is the wood" -Paul McCann
 
racnruss

racnruss

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Joined
Oct 21, 2009
Messages
52
Location
Iowa
Big wood

I am truly a lover of all tools sharper and faster. And also the impatient owner of a hydraulic splitter.

My concern is, how do you get the big stuff up on that table. It looks like a very tired back to me. I saw the video and all he was splitting was perfectly straight 12-16" rounds.

The appeal of the TW6 is the log lift for me. Right now I have a 9hp 30 ton HF splitter that I have worked all the leaks and cheap bolts out of.

thanks, Russ.
 
Circle B MN
Joined
Aug 3, 2008
Messages
3,029
Location
Princeton MN
The big rounds just don't excite me personally. Big rounds comes from big logs that usually need big equipment to get moved. If I can't comfortably lift a round, I noodle it to a convenient size. A log lift is great, but you still have to get the round to the lift or the lift to the round.
I certainly won't pass on big oak, but I don't go out of my way looking for it. I'll spend the day cutting phone pole size wood and be happy as can be....:cheers:
 
racnruss

racnruss

ArboristSite Member
Joined
Oct 21, 2009
Messages
52
Location
Iowa
That's about right

As it is now, I have to take all the tree with me, not just the smaller stuff. I do have a splitter on my mini skid which helps tremendously to bust up the big stuff, but even the quarters are heavy if it's green wood especially Locust or Oak.

when they build that thing a little bigger and put a log lift on it, I'll be the first guy in line.
 
IrwinJeff

IrwinJeff

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Apr 26, 2010
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Irwin
Congrats on the splitter. I agree that money can buy happiness.....I just got a new Jonsered 2171 for my b-day! Can't wait to lay the smack down on some wood!
 
Dalmatian90

Dalmatian90

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Sep 11, 2008
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Northeastern Connecticut
when they build that thing a little bigger and put a log lift on it, I'll be the first guy in line.

Probably is cheaper to just buy a vertical hydraulic for the big stuff then try to turn the Super Split into something it's not.

Kind of difficult to build a log lift that runs on kinetic energy (that doesn't act like a catapult)
 
1harlowr

1harlowr

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Sep 25, 2009
Messages
468
Location
OH
I would love to see a video of it splitting some knotty wood. Looks great for faster production. If I was selling much wood, that would be a time saver (aka more money in my pocket in long run)
 
Circle B MN
Joined
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3,029
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Princeton MN
I would love to see a video of it splitting some knotty wood. Looks great for faster production. If I was selling much wood, that would be a time saver (aka more money in my pocket in long run)

It actually slices through rather than splits knotty wood. Seems to do just as well if not better than my hydraulic unit. Just like with the hyd unit, I don't aim for dead center of the knot, but rather split around it.
 
jra1100

jra1100

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Jul 28, 2007
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Marble Rock, Iowa
Great splitter. I have seen them on the tube often. I wonder how it would do in dead red elm. That is what I mostly burn and it is knotty and stringy and a real ##### to split. I'd love to see how this handles that. JR
 
epicklein22
Joined
Feb 2, 2007
Messages
3,843
Location
Mantua, Ohio
I received my HD SS on Monday and put it together that night. What a machine! So far it has exceeded my expectations. It really is as fast as you can go. Everyone doubts it at first glance but become believers after the first few splits.

I did try a nasty silver maple crotch. The machine didn't like it and it got stuck in the wedge. But it did end up splitting it all up. I think with more lever time, I will be able to split crotches and knots pretty easily. This machine is easy to use right off the bat but I believe some more lever time is needed to really master the capabilities of it.
 
Circle B MN
Joined
Aug 3, 2008
Messages
3,029
Location
Princeton MN
I received my HD SS on Monday and put it together that night. What a machine! So far it has exceeded my expectations. It really is as fast as you can go. Everyone doubts it at first glance but become believers after the first few splits.

I did try a nasty silver maple crotch. The machine didn't like it and it got stuck in the wedge. But it did end up splitting it all up. I think with more lever time, I will be able to split crotches and knots pretty easily. This machine is easy to use right off the bat but I believe some more lever time is needed to really master the capabilities of it.

There is a bit of a learning curve, and break in period both to get the machine operating to full capacity. For the life of me, I can not understand the fascination people have with splitting knots or crotches with either the SS or a Hyd unit. When I block up logs I make it a point to cut them out and toss them in the chunk pile. The SS is certainly capable of splitting most anything a Hyd will, but my question is why..? Have fun with your new machine..:cheers:
 
epicklein22
Joined
Feb 2, 2007
Messages
3,843
Location
Mantua, Ohio
There is a bit of a learning curve, and break in period both to get the machine operating to full capacity. For the life of me, I can not understand the fascination people have with splitting knots or crotches with either the SS or a Hyd unit. When I block up logs I make it a point to cut them out and toss them in the chunk pile. The SS is certainly capable of splitting most anything a Hyd will, but my question is why..? Have fun with your new machine..:cheers:

I do the same. I like those straight "creampuff" logs, say around 15" but I just wanted to know if the SS could do it.

Mine will be seeing ~50 cords of tops over the next few months.:rock:
 
ptabaka

ptabaka

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Oct 30, 2008
Messages
138
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ct
ssplit

i have a tw6 4way 6way very fast not 3sec but fast.ican put a 16in log and split 4ways 6ways in one shot,not take it back 1 2 or 3times just my 2 cents good luck with the splitter
 
STLfirewood

STLfirewood

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Jun 10, 2007
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2,186
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St. louis MO
I received my HD SS on Monday and put it together that night. What a machine! So far it has exceeded my expectations. It really is as fast as you can go. Everyone doubts it at first glance but become believers after the first few splits.

I did try a nasty silver maple crotch. The machine didn't like it and it got stuck in the wedge. But it did end up splitting it all up. I think with more lever time, I will be able to split crotches and knots pretty easily. This machine is easy to use right off the bat but I believe some more lever time is needed to really master the capabilities of it.

Try this on a crotch piece. When you have a Y split the lead on each side in half(the edges of the Y). The turn the piece you have left around. Set the piece on it's side.(split side on the beam) and split it. After it is split you know have 2 y's. Split both y's right in the middle of the crotch. It works like a charm.

Scott
 

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