I think the huskee is just under 5 gals. Far from double the flow rate. Personally I'd be happy with 1:1. 1/2 to 1/3 pump flow with the 11/13/16 gpm pumps. Mine gets hot in summer with the 16.
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I think that I answered my question through some internet research. It looks to me like if you go up to a 13 gpm pump, the engine size needs to go up to at least 6.5 hp. I guess that I will stay at the 11gpm, as it does well anyway.
When your at the hardware store they'll have those little drawers with all different types of set screws and dowel pins and you name it Clips they'll be in there. If they only have 3/16 Square stock you can you can grind it on your grinder into a half moon. Best thing to do is hold them with a pair of vice grips and repeatedly dip it in water so you're not turning it blue and taking any type of hardening that might be into in it out. That keyway is not under horrible loads for example like a lawn mower key way. The load on that pump is constant load. What I'm saying is is there's not a shock load to be concerned with. I'm pretty excited for you as I think you'll be very happy with your motor... they're wonderful engines
how did you bypass the brake and throttle on the preditor i got the 173 cc preditor vertical for my huskee 22 ton splitter i used a wire hanger on the brake and i used a wire to hold the throttle to full its annoying i split about 2 cords that way and added gas before it shut off but then i had to wait until it ran out of gas to shut it off, annoying i read a post about the honda throttle but not to sure how to put that on the darn thing.I literally cannot believe this. I put this whole damn predator engine together. Hours of work. I'm going to fire it up tonight and I pour gas into the engine and it just comes POURING out of the bottom of the engine everywhere. There is clearly something not connected there or a big Problem You wanna talk about PI$$ED off. This is what I get for going the cheep route on engines To unhook this all and take it back will be hours and the smell of gas is everywhere. Now.......This is officially a disaster!!
It works, is cheaper, and faster than sending something out to be chrome plated and waiting 2 months to get the impliment back in service
I did not know that. Learn something new every day.Having worked in and owned a machine shop for over 20 years, I can assure you that hydraulic cylinder rods are not sent out to be chromed. Chrome rod is available in 20 ft lengths from most any steel distributor. It is hard chrome plated, centerless ground and polished for size and finish. We usually kept a bar of the most common sizes in the stock rack. An unplated rod will not last long with the abrasion from seals and dust cycling back and forth.
http://wingatealloys.com/products/s...-i34lavX9HlB7VSfCtep6D2FvMADfwv8aArdkEALw_wcB
Having worked in and owned a machine shop for over 20 years, I can assure you that hydraulic cylinder rods are not sent out to be chromed. Chrome rod is available in 20 ft lengths from most any steel distributor. It is hard chrome plated, centerless ground and polished for size and finish. We usually kept a bar of the most common sizes in the stock rack. An unplated rod will not last long with the abrasion from seals and dust cycling back and forth.
http://wingatealloys.com/products/s...-i34lavX9HlB7VSfCtep6D2FvMADfwv8aArdkEALw_wcB
Yow, that's one big rod! (That's what she said)Had a 4" rod replaced 2 years ago. (Stick cylinder on the feller buncher) Nut loosened and stripped out the threads for the 2nd time.
Couldn't just make it shorter, was almost too short before.
Cost us $22 an inch for that ~6ft rod... yup...about $1600. Whole job was almost 3k.
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