Stihl 500i First Impressions

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singinwoodwackr
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I'm of the opinion that all engines should be allowed to warm up before applying load and cool down before shut down
When I was on a firewood crew in the late 80s, early 90s we used two saws...switched off every tank. That worked well. Guys who tried using one saw all day, every day were replacing saws regularly.
 
MowerMilitia

MowerMilitia

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Again...none of the other Mtronics I have do this or have ever done this evwn under constant use and heavy loading in big wood...only the 500i

Imo this a glitch in the programing that Stihl needs to fix.
When I bought my 500i, the shop issued my two cautions: 1) Do not go full throttle until into the wood. 2) Let it idle for at least a FULL minute before cutting from cold and do NOT go over 1/2 throttle until all the way warmed up. He explained with great first-hand experience that on these “big bore saws” with magnesium pistons, the cylinder will score if the piston heats up before the cylinder. Just another reason to idle before and after use. Kinda reminds me of flying an air-cooled aircraft engine…. Lots of rules for proper warm up and cool down with a few hard no-nos!!!
 
Vintage Engine Repairs
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When I bought my 500i, the shop issued my two cautions: 1) Do not go full throttle until into the wood. 2) Let it idle for at least a FULL minute before cutting from cold and do NOT go over 1/2 throttle until all the way warmed up. He explained with great first-hand experience that on these “big bore saws” with magnesium pistons, the cylinder will score if the piston heats up before the cylinder. Just another reason to idle before and after use. Kinda reminds me of flying an air-cooled aircraft engine…. Lots of rules for proper warm up and cool down with a few hard no-nos!!!
The 500i doesn’t have a mag piston, only the 400. It’s good, basic advice he’s offered. Don’t rag it out the cut and let it warm up and cool down :) keeping the chain sharp is the thing most owners seem to overlook. People will drop the depth gauges to compensate and lean on the saw. That will destroy clutches & bearings, cause the saw to run hotter and damage bars and chains nice and quickly! Of course then they’ll want a refund and bash the saw brand.
 
singinwoodwackr
Joined
Jan 31, 2012
Messages
16,035
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“Free” State of Idaho
When I bought my 500i, the shop issued my two cautions: 1) Do not go full throttle until into the wood. 2) Let it idle for at least a FULL minute before cutting from cold and do NOT go over 1/2 throttle until all the way warmed up. He explained with great first-hand experience that on these “big bore saws” with magnesium pistons, the cylinder will score if the piston heats up before the cylinder. Just another reason to idle before and after use. Kinda reminds me of flying an air-cooled aircraft engine…. Lots of rules for proper warm up and cool down with a few hard no-nos!!!
Interesting. Frankly, if I were still on a crew I would pass on this saw if this info is true. My old 266xp was Bullitt proof, didn't have to be babied... same with my 066. Even my 661 will go all day without issue.
This 500 may be a great felling saw, however. But, imo, not a firewood cutter that goes 6-8hrs a day, 6 days a week.
I may wind up selling this thing and keeping the MM 461, lol...
...opposite of my plan when I bought it 🤪.
 
MowerMilitia

MowerMilitia

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The 500i doesn’t have a mag piston, only the 400. It’s good, basic advice he’s offered. Don’t rag it out the cut and let it warm up and cool down :) keeping the chain sharp is the thing most owners seem to overlook. People will drop the depth gauges to compensate and lean on the saw. That will destroy clutches & bearings, cause the saw to run hotter and damage bars and chains nice and quickly! Of course then they’ll want a refund and bash the saw brand.
Thanks. Yeah, with all the (hard) burnt trees we are cutting, the chains need lots of TLC. And, yeah, kinda to your points, full skip chain on longer bars makes for a happy saw head too. Tangent: I run .404 on one of my 461s because it is bulletproof, but I sometimes wonder if a full comp .325 would rip becaise it is so easy for head to pull, maybe even with 8 or 9 tooth sprocket. Just thinkin’…. LOL. Maybe a .325 carbide chain!
 
ValleyForge

ValleyForge

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Interesting. Frankly, if I were still on a crew I would pass on this saw if this info is true. My old 266xp was Bullitt proof, didn't have to be babied... same with my 066. Even my 661 will go all day without issue.
This 500 may be a great felling saw, however. But, imo, not a firewood cutter that goes 6-8hrs a day, 6 days a week.
I may wind up selling this thing and keeping the MM 461, lol...
...opposite of my plan when I bought it 🤪.
your 266xp was fuel injected?
 
user 122190
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O
Interesting. Frankly, if I were still on a crew I would pass on this saw if this info is true. My old 266xp was Bullitt proof, didn't have to be babied... same with my 066. Even my 661 will go all day without issue.
This 500 may be a great felling saw, however. But, imo, not a firewood cutter that goes 6-8hrs a day, 6 days a week.
I may wind up selling this thing and keeping the MM 461, lol...
...opposite of my plan when I bought it 🤪.

I decided that it is a transition thing. Going from a carb saw to an M-Tronic saw took a bit of retraining. Same thing with the injector saw. Stay with it, figure it out, and the saw will be a monster. When I was fussing with mine I could not figure out if it was bad gas, the bar or the chain, or some combination. Once I put the 24" B&C on it, as a test, I realized that the saw just has a problem running the longer 32" bar. Nothing wrong with the saw. I have bought a 28" Bar, and have made a couple of 91dl chains with chains from my stash of 84dl and 105dl chains. I haven't tried it yet, as my cutting is mostly done for the year, but I expect it to behave nicely with a slightly smaller B&C set up. I just run the 32s with a degree of understanding, that the saw is running at its limit.
 
ValleyForge

ValleyForge

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O


I decided that it is a transition thing. Going from a carb saw to an M-Tronic saw took a bit of retraining. Same thing with the injector saw. Stay with it, figure it out, and the saw will be a monster. When I was fussing with mine I could not figure out if it was bad gas, the bar or the chain, or some combination. Once I put the 24" B&C on it, as a test, I realized that the saw just has a problem running the longer 32" bar. Nothing wrong with the saw. I have bought a 28" Bar, and have made a couple of 91dl chains with chains from my stash of 84dl and 105dl chains. I haven't tried it yet, as my cutting is mostly done for the year, but I expect it to behave nicely with a slightly smaller B&C set up. I just run the 32s with a degree of understanding, that the saw is running at its limit.
the 500i has no problem running a 36” bar, you should try that…
 
Sierra_rider

Sierra_rider

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How interesting, .404 seems excessive on that little powerhead! Stay away from tungsten :)
Some of the guys cutting redwoods out on the coast here, run .404 even on 70-80cc saws. The redwood bark swells as you cut it, so it's a benefit to make the biggest kerf you can.
 
woodfarmer

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Yep...I've got a coupla 044s and an 066 I built into some strong runners, but I prefer the 500i because of the vibes. I don't necessarily perceive the vibration of the 0-series saws while I'm cutting, but my carpal tunnel issues flare up pretty bad after a day of cutting with them.
Sold my 066, 046 and 460. I have two 500i’s. Just had left hand carpal tunnel done 7 weeks ago and right hand last week. I hope when I’m able to get back at it, the lighter vibration saws will make a difference
 
Sierra_rider

Sierra_rider

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Sold my 066, 046 and 460. I have two 500i’s. Just had left hand carpal tunnel done 7 weeks ago and right hand last week. I hope when I’m able to get back at it, the lighter vibration saws will make a difference

How's the results of the surgery so far? I haven't had too many issues with the carpal tunnel lately, but I know it's bound to flare up again. A friend of mine did the surgery and says it's the best thing he's ever done for himself. I might spring for it next time I start having more issues.

It's been good enough that I've been able to use my older Stihls, but I just prefer the 500i or 400 for most side work...462 for my real job. I'll probably never part with the 066, mine is just too nice of a saw to ever replace.
 
woodfarmer

woodfarmer

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How's the results of the surgery so far? I haven't had too many issues with the carpal tunnel lately, but I know it's bound to flare up again. A friend of mine did the surgery and says it's the best thing he's ever done for himself. I might spring for it next time I start having more issues.

It's been good enough that I've been able to use my older Stihls, but I just prefer the 500i or 400 for most side work...462 for my real job. I'll probably never part with the 066, mine is just too nice of a saw to ever replace.
Not bad, I now have feeling in my fingers when I wake up in the morning, After 7 weeks still have difficulty opening jars, lids etc, anything that requires tight grip.
certainly couldn’t run tools or saws etc. I can reel in a fish, run a fork and spoon.
I will have to make a more conscious effort to go easier on my right (dominant) hand or I won’t be able to pull a saw over come winter.
 

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