Paul Bunions
ArboristSite Operative
I got the Echo running!
I'm using an HDA-327 carb which has barely been used but has sat since '22. I just did a half-rebuild on it, replacing the diaphragms, needle, two gaskets, and a mesh filter. It turns out it's important to put all the parts in the right places, but enough about that.
I put the H and L screws at 1.25 turns and got it going, but it idled way too fast and died when the throttle reached a certain point. I cranked the idle screw down almost to nothing, and now it runs like crazy without moving the chain at idle.
I have decided to turn the saw "on" (toggle switch) every time I shut it down, because if I don't, I will never remember to do it before I try to start it, and then I'll flood it. I'm also putting the choke on and then releasing it before pulling the cord, so the throttle is open. I saw someone saying to avoid using the compression release, but it doesn't seem to hurt anything, so I'm using it.
This will now be my backup/project saw. I ordered a Gearhead deflector and a flywheel key, and once I install them, I'll take the saw to the shop to let a pro adjust the carb. I'm also going to open the muffler up a little before taking it in. I saw some guy doing two 1/4" holes, and it seemed like it helped without making the saw scream too much.
I don't want to tune the carb myself until it has been tuned correctly at least once, and I don't want it done until these little mods are done. I want a pro to get it right so I don't burn it up before I get the hang of tuning it.
I wonder if I can get it to pull a 24" bar as well as the Husky.
I'm using an HDA-327 carb which has barely been used but has sat since '22. I just did a half-rebuild on it, replacing the diaphragms, needle, two gaskets, and a mesh filter. It turns out it's important to put all the parts in the right places, but enough about that.
I put the H and L screws at 1.25 turns and got it going, but it idled way too fast and died when the throttle reached a certain point. I cranked the idle screw down almost to nothing, and now it runs like crazy without moving the chain at idle.
I have decided to turn the saw "on" (toggle switch) every time I shut it down, because if I don't, I will never remember to do it before I try to start it, and then I'll flood it. I'm also putting the choke on and then releasing it before pulling the cord, so the throttle is open. I saw someone saying to avoid using the compression release, but it doesn't seem to hurt anything, so I'm using it.
This will now be my backup/project saw. I ordered a Gearhead deflector and a flywheel key, and once I install them, I'll take the saw to the shop to let a pro adjust the carb. I'm also going to open the muffler up a little before taking it in. I saw some guy doing two 1/4" holes, and it seemed like it helped without making the saw scream too much.
I don't want to tune the carb myself until it has been tuned correctly at least once, and I don't want it done until these little mods are done. I want a pro to get it right so I don't burn it up before I get the hang of tuning it.
I wonder if I can get it to pull a 24" bar as well as the Husky.
