Nik's Poulan Thread
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Only difference is my hand guard is mounted on the handle.
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redunshee
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Thought I had some 530019097 crank seals but guess I'm out. Is there another seal other than the National 253747 that will work? I recall having some a couple years ago but the walls were so thin that I ruined them on install. Suggestions?
Bob
Bob
He is the man.
I got the red Craftsman 3.7 (actually a 3800 top end) cutting great last weekend, but do you know what an "average"
axial end play should be in those series? The service manual uses special drivers to set the bearings, and the driver rims
are the stops for final location.
I may have to pull both the seals & reset the needle bearings inward with a custom lathed off tool,
as it's over 0.032". But it runs strong, no seal leakage, and the brass thrust washers inside the crankcase
looked fine (from the edges of them).
Yes, the SKF 6119. Both are garter springed dual lipped 7/8" x 5/8" x 3/16" & my local NAPA stocks the SKF.
I did get a chance to tach the 4000 with & w/o the AF or high top cover this weekend, and the max RPM does drop by 500-550 when its installed. Except for the easy cleanable sieve type filter, those don't seem to flow air as well as the rear slotted type winter covers seen on 3800s & some 3700s. The slotted covers bring the air in from the rear and never turn it around like the front inlet standard & high top do.
Most of them are pretty sloppy. I measured a couple of mine and they were around .020 I think. I would suggest if your's is .032 it likely came like that.
If you do decide to move the bearings just go ahead and split the cases. It's so easy to do on those saws it's not worth fiddling around from the outside. If you did push them in too far you would have to split the cases anyway.
There is no case gasket so use Motoseal, yamabond, hondabond or some gas resistant sealer. You can delete the cylinder base gasket using that stuff in its place as well.
A lot of mine have that side play also. I do not even bother to measure them. They run fine and I have not had any problems.
All my 3400_4000 saws have some play in them. But they run good so ive left them alone. I have always thought the 3700s were very good runners. I opened up the muffler on my cousins thick ring 3.7 and slotted the a/f cover and that made a very noticeable difference in performance.
jerry quinn
Proud dad of a US Marine.
I tried putting two seals in my 3400 today and ruined both seals
Are the napa ones a little tougher. Or should I get a smaller hammer.
I tried putting two seals in my 3400 today and ruined both seals
What I do Jerry is to lube up the rubber part of the seal with 2 stroke oil. Then with some finesse and a deep well socket that matches the outer metal part of the seal I tap it into place. If it is not perfectly level then I tilt the socket just alittle and tap it to where I want.
I tried putting two seals in my 3400 today and ruined both seals
Those seals can be tough to get started in the case as the top edge is very sharp.
If taken all the way apart I countersink the edge of the case before I put it back together. If I'm just replacing seals I actually just take my pocket knife and cut a bevel in the case. They slip right in most the time with a bevel cut in the case.
If that don't work, get a bigger hammer, that what they say here in the shop
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jerry quinn
Proud dad of a US Marine.
That was my prob. that outer edge was way too sharp and the edge of the seal caught on the case and rolled it. Oh well I better pick up a dozen just to make sure. Thanks for the tip I will chamfer that edge a little. And maybe put my glasses on.
That be her, it's a 2800, same as the 2.8 but still has all the labels.
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OK thanks y'all (that means everyone for you northern folks). I'm not sacrificing the seals to drive the bearings in to take the
side play out, as the little red 3800 saw runs fine & cuts great.
side play out, as the little red 3800 saw runs fine & cuts great.
Just taper the openings after you drive them bearns out
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I tried putting two seals in my 3400 today and ruined both seals
You should try to use a driving plate or a thick socket to help distribute the load when you first start them in them. I can't
"freehand start" those small seals with a plastic hammer, as they either roll over, or else one side starts & the other doesn't.
I have a pair of both National & SKF seals at the house, and will see if there is a place to measure the rim thicknesses. AutoZone has the
Nationals for three or four dollars each, as they're used in a transmission on some older GM products.
If knew exactly where that seal went, I could look it up in one of our service manuals and see what special seal driver it took to install it, maybe able to find a driver on fleabay
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And 1984 th125 transmission don't tell me much.
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