Suggestions for an all-day saw

[MatthewTN]

I've got a new farm that has been long neglected and I have what may be miles of fencing that is now overgrown with mostly privet. I'll be clearing the fence lines over the next few years--hopefully a few hundred yards by year-end (I work alone, slow and steady).

I've been using a borrowed Husky 350 but it's more saw than is needed for this task and has wreaked havoc on what has been recurring tendonitis for a few years now. Any advice on a lighter saw that will stand up to hard work with a little less wear and tear on me?

Should mention, the Husky seems prone to trouble so I'm leaning toward a Stihl. The Stihl 193 looked like a good option but I'm seeing bad review of it on this site. Also, I'm not sure how a saw like that would stand up to the occasional 12" tree felled for firewood. Or do I just suck up the extra 3 lbs on the saw and go for a Stihl 250 or similar?

Thanks.

 

[Tin-knocker]

I haven't had any complaints about my echo cs 352. Its small but it's very reliable and light weight. I go through downed trees about 20" regularly. And I've felled a few 8"-10" with it. I think the largest downed tree I cut off a trail was around 24-28. I brought a big Stihl to move it and it wouldn't start so I went and grabbed my echo I keep in the truck and took care of it. I know Echo doesn't carry the brand name like Stihl does but they are extremely reliable. I'd highly recommend checking some of their saws out.

 

[Ryan'smilling]

People love their 241s. One set up with a 12" bar wouldn't be a ton lighter than a 350, but it'd be a noticeable difference I'd think. I personally wouldn't want a rear handle version of a saw that's designed to be a top handle model.

 

[arathol]

If you aren't cutting a lot of big stuff the Echo CS370 is worth a look. Weight is about 11 lbs with 16" bar and chain. Its a very capable small saw, easily handling 12"+ trees. Mine always starts and runs, even after weeks of sitting. Its about 7 years old now, and is still good as it was when new.

 

[CR888]

With the pain you suffer from every weight saving made by choosing a light saw will make a huge difference. I'd get a top handle saw for that work but the design nature of them requires you to use your wrists more than a conventional rear handle saw. The perfect saw would be the rear handle version of the 201 with a light 14" bar. But they are expensive. The 192t is not a bad saw, just not pro grade.

 

[Mustang71]

I have the reoccurring bicep tendonitis in both arms. Don't have a problem with saws though. I'm thinking a top handle may be a bad thing due the the shifting of weight on the arm. I think a stihl 261 would work good for you.

 

[derwoodii]

Stihl 193 C+E model with the easy start big enuff for your needs lite n easy for your arms oh working alone buy some & wear saw chaps with any $ change

 

[BC WetCoast]

If you're cutting a lot of shrubs, you may be better off with a brush cutter that you can wear with a harness. With your problems, I would avoid a top handle as it requires all wrists and arms, whereas a rear handle allows you to better use your shoulders, back and legs.

 

[earlthegoat2]

I never recommend a top handle to anyone who is not doing in-tree work. On the ground, a top handle has no clear advantages besides weight, which its rear handled brethren will still have. That said, I also do not recommend the rear handled versions of top handle saws either. Possibly, in your case though, it may be the best choice.

I'm curious. Is it the weight of the saw that is effecting your tendonitis or is it the vibration. Newer saws have better anti-vibe and something like an MS241 with 16" bar may serve you just fine even though the weight difference is not great.

 

[Mustang71]

I have chronic tendonitis in my arms and it's weird because it's not an injury thing just is always there. I cut a large ash down today and cut it all up no big deal no pain. I go to work and bend line sets aka soft copper for air conditioners and instant pain. It depends on the person.