Speeco splitter problem

[2broke2ride]

Hi guys, I usually hang out over in the chainsaw forums but I'm having a problem with my splitter. It is a CountyLine 22ton made by speeco for tractor supply. It has served me well but this year the detent in the lever jas started sticking and not releasing when the piston retracts fully. It seems to do it more as the machine heats up. Any fix for this? I know the valves on these are rather generic and not very serviceable.
Thanks.
Kevin

 

[2broke2ride]

Anyone?

 

[triptester]

Remove the pin attaching the handle to the spool than rotate the 1/2 turn and replace the pin. This changes the wear location of the detent grooves. Try this in the neutral position first, if no change rotate the spool while in the detent position.

 

[2broke2ride]

Remove the pin attaching the handle to the spool than rotate the 1/2 turn and replace the pin. This changes the wear location of the detent grooves. Try this in the neutral position first, if no change rotate the spool while in the detent position.

Thank you. There is no actual detent adjustment on this type of valve correct?

 

[homemade]

Take a picture of the valve and we can tell you if it’s fixed or adjustable.

 

[2broke2ride]

Will do tonight.

 

[2broke2ride]

Pics of the valve in question

 

[homemade]

Pics of the valve in question

If you remove the end cap on the right side (opposite of the control lever) there might be a spring with adjustable tension via jamb nuts. But it looks like 90% chance it’s a fixed pressure. And then I would do like said above, remove the control handle and swivel the spool (the sliding cylinder in the valve body) 180* to put the detent in a new position on the spool

 

[lknchoppers]

I don't think that one is ajustable

 

[2broke2ride]

I rotated the spool and that made the problem worse. So I removed the cap as was suggested but did not find any adjustments. I did find there was metal shavings and grime in there so I cleaned it out, and put it back together. It works great but now it is leaking hydro fluid like a sieve out of that cap. There was no gasket on the cap. I do not think there is supposed to be fluid in there at all.
Any ideas? Is this repairable or do I pitch pitch it and buy a new one?

 

[homemade]

Sounds like the rear seal on the spool is junk. There is not supposed to have oil pouring out the back,regardless of the cap. If you seal the cap, the oil will pool up in the cap and you won’t be able to move the valve backwards.

If you pull the spool all the way out there should be an o ring on the spool that is junk.

Beyond that, a replacement valve is $50.

 

[2broke2ride]

So do I just remove the cap, unhook the spool from the handle and slide it out the back to remove it? Never had one apart before.
I got nothing to lose, it isnt useable like it is anyway.

Sounds like the rear seal on the spool is junk. There is not supposed to have oil pouring out the back,regardless of the cap. If you seal the cap, the oil will pool up in the cap and you won’t be able to move the valve backwards.

If you pull the spool all the way out there should be an o ring on the spool that is junk.

Beyond that, a replacement valve is $50.

 

[triptester]

Here are the instructions fir seal repair.
http://www.energymfg.com/pdf/44833x.pdf

 

[sb47]

I tried rebuilding the one on my old splitter but it never worked properly after that. Ended up buying a new one and it never failed again.

 

[2broke2ride]

Thank you.

 

[VirginiaIron]

So how does the #9 non adjustable detent work? Is it threaded to the spool? It must be pressure activated. Is it pushed in on detent?

For example: is there a port that directs fluid to the detent at a predetermined psi?
Try it and get back to us.

 

[VirginiaIron]

I rotated the spool and that made the problem worse. So I removed the cap as was suggested but did not find any adjustments. I did find there was metal shavings and grime in there so I cleaned it out, and put it back together. It works great but now it is leaking hydro fluid like a sieve out of that cap. There was no gasket on the cap. I do not think there is supposed to be fluid in there at all.
Any ideas? Is this repairable or do I pitch pitch it and buy a new one?

Works great as in "the detent now works"?

The parts diagram shows an o-ring seal and some spacer. It appears, the posted diagram/ directions are for another manufacturer.