On a more positive note...

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Thank you all who helped me with the oiler hose!

The heat as everyone suggested literally made this process a breeze, thank you!!

Now to figure out the darn leak at the carb to manifold.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Show us what you have for the end of the rubber manifold to carb connection. Must have both metal parts, inside and outside to get a tight seal. Number 24 and 28 on your IPL.

 

[president]

Show us what you have for the end of the rubber manifold to carb connection. Must have both metal parts, inside and outside to get a tight seal. Number 24 and 28 on your IPL.

T1 !

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Show us what you have for the end of the rubber manifold to carb connection. Must have both metal parts, inside and outside to get a tight seal. Number 24 and 28 on your IPL.

Hey

Initially I had both of these installed



It looked like this



However I use a ms 180 carb with the guts taken out as a means to hold the rubber seal in place to block off the manifold during pressure testing. However I inserted the ms 180 carb the wrong way, not realising that the opening of the carb is different sizes each end. What must of happened is the metal oring got squeezed out of shape because as photographed below, the metal oring actually half fits inside the carb opening.





Therefore after this I tried pressure testing with that inner oring removed (still leaked), then I had another look and noticed that the outer washer was also bent, so removed that and tried pressure testing again to no avail, just more leaking.

 

[pioneerguy600]

The recessed face of that carb is your problem, you need to use the correct carb to effectively seal against the manifold for a pressure test.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

The recessed face of that carb is your problem, you need to use the correct carb to effectively seal against the manifold for a pressure test.

Thanks mate, I won’t be using this carb again!! In future just put some thick very pliable rubber matting between the carb for the saw. Then I will pressure test through the spark plug hole with an adapter I made

 

[Mad Professor]

Thanks mate, I won’t be using this carb again!! In future just put some thick very pliable rubber matting between the carb for the saw. Then I will pressure test through the spark plug hole with an adapter I made

Go to a tire shop and ask for a punctured/used tube. Lifetime supply of homemade rubber gaskets.

 

[Gord404]

I usually use a stripped down carb block so I can easily plug the pulse hose below the carb and double up on your rubber if you have to, is that an oem boot or aftermarket?

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

I usually use a stripped down carb block so I can easily plug the pulse hose below the carb and double up on your rubber if you have to, is that an oem boot or aftermarket?

It’s all OEM

 

[pioneerguy600]

An old carb makes a good blocker but don`t trust it to block the impulse line unless the nipple on the carb is blocked solid. I have a blocker plate for every application I ever encountered made from 1/4 " thick aluminum plate, when using a plate I can pull vac through the impulse hose. Stihl makes a special adapter, you should get one....LOL

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

An old carb makes a good blocker but don`t trust it to block the impulse line unless the nipple on the carb is blocked solid. I have a blocker plate for every application I ever encountered made from 1/4 " thick aluminum plate, when using a plate I can pull vac through the impulse hose. Stihl makes a special adapter, you should get one....LOL

Have you got a pic of the one you made? I made one from 6mm perspex to then realise the threads don’t run all the way down haha.

I’d love the stihl one, is it a case of one adapter to fit all saws? If so i may get one!

 

[pioneerguy600]

I use lengths of 1/4"steel tubing cut to span from the threaded portion of the studs down to the 1/4" thick blockers, a washer and nut on each stud to tighten it down and you are good to go. There is at least 2 and maybe more blocking adapters Stihl offers for regular carbs, maybe even more for the newer offerings. For the 026 up to the 066 the part number is 1128 850 4200.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

I use lengths of 1/4"steel tubing cut to span from the threaded portion of the studs down to the 1/4" thick blockers, a washer and nut on each stud to tighten it down and you are good to go. There is at least 2 and maybe more blocking adapters Stihl offers for regular carbs, maybe even more for the newer offerings. For the 026 up to the 066 the part number is 1128 850 4200.

Awesome! I’ll check it out May just get some copper tubing and a set of washers myself too. I’ll check the price thanks again!

 

[pioneerguy600]

Awesome! I’ll check it out May just get some copper tubing and a set of washers myself too. I’ll check the price thanks again!

When you made the adapter for the sparkplug what did you use? I have made many of them from old two stroke plugs, they must have the flat crush washers ot a tight fitting flat rubber washer to seal effectively.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

When you made the adapter for the sparkplug what did you use? I have made many of them from old two stroke plugs, they must have the flat crush washers ot a tight fitting flat rubber washer to seal effectively.

Hey I used an old plug and a rubber oring, just gently snugged. I did find though when I span the crank the gauge moved way more than it does from the impulse or the air intake. Not surprising when you realise that it’s the compression area but I did get concerned it was going to mess my gauge up.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Some of my blockoff plates have a nipple installed in them but they are for older saws that did not have a separate impulse line. I may pick up another Stihl adapter sometime, my first one got lifted out of my tool box when I was working at a dealership/repair shop along with several other tools, they finally fired the truck driver.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Some of my blockoff plates have a nipple installed in them but they are for older saws that did not have a separate impulse line. I may pick up another Stihl adapter sometime, my first one got lifted out of my tool box when I was working at a dealership/repair shop along with several other tools, they finally fired the truck driver.

Ah no! How annoying. The impulse is very convenient for testing isn’t it! It’s nice to have a few options for attaching the Mityvac nipple isn’t it!

 

[pioneerguy600]

Impulse line is handy if the saw has it but that is why I made plates and sparkplug adapters, got all the bases covered.