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That looks like what they use at the salon for buffing some ladies toe nails. You sure it cuts wood?

There are a few reasons a leak may occur. Number one thing to check is the oil tank vent. If this little orifice isn’t able to equalize pressure any manner of leaks may start. First if you work outdoors in the cold and store your saws indoors where it’s warm the pressure build up inside the oil...

What a time capsule! You’re selling all kinds of goodies! Someone with the deep pockets is going to be thrilled with this one.

Wowzers!! Someone is going to be super happy with this one

Nice. You don’t see clean examples like this much anymore. GLWS

I can only echo what others have said. The current 50cc saw is a 550 MK II. It’s great with all the latest bells and whistles but expensive, a little heavy, and it actually ties you back into needing a dealer if you have to work on adjusting the autotune system- something I sense you’re trying...

Anything shy of a two-part epoxy spray isn’t going to last, so don’t think you can go shopping for a specific brand of rattle can spray in a big box store. As soon as gas splashes onto it that cheap paint will come right off. Even being around exhaust gasses will wear it down and out eventually...

The 592 will definitely have the upper hand in terms of fuel economy, it’s a strato engine design with gen 3 autotune. But there’s no replacement for displacement, and you have to match the saw to the wood. A 562xp would outrun a 395xp in small wood. A 572xp could outrun a 395xp in medium wood...

I think you’ll find they are both Italian made and very good machined castings. Most folks have more experience with meteor, which is better than say golf or some other Chinese no-name stuff. But Tecomec is very good also: a couple years ago they made cylinders and pistons for Husqvarna 242’s...

Very lucky find! Nice work on the plastic welding and best of luck on the repair. My only thought is that I WOULD do the bearings and seals. Not because the bearings would be shot, but the seal is just a bit of rubber that hardens and expires over time. If yours is an early 262, it was probably...

My Husky dealer doesn’t have everything either. But he would stock small spine 7 tooth .325 rims, small spline 7 tooth 3/8 rim, small spline 7-tooth .325 spur, large spline 3/8 7-tooth rim, large spline 3/8 8-tooth rim, and large spline 3/8 7-tooth spur at a minimum. That isn’t taking into...

I think you’ll find it does well!

Thanks Dustin. PM me what you find.

Anyone have a heated half wrap?

Sorry, the saw in a box is a 359

Here’s some pics of that 262xp. I have the clutch drum/ clutch/ sprocket in a zip lock bag. It needs some work, and I’m short on time so I can send it if you want it. PM for details. I’ll post up pics of the saw in a box on Monday- I left the box at work.

I’ve got a couple options, - One is 80% parts in a box to build a 262. - one complete 262 that needs a brake flag attached and to go through with carb kit and such to get running. I can post pics if you’re interested

I’m interested in if you have a 154/254/257/262 heated top handle, or rear handle heating element. I’m also interested in the newer oem case splitter tool that bolts to the bar studs for a 562xp with stuffers.

It’s a non-serviceable part, with no replacement. Not from Walbro, and certainly not from Husky. If the accelerator pump is giving you problems you’re best off to just swap in a new carb. Destructive disassembly of the carb to access the accelerator pump can be done, but unless you have a...

How would he even?